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1911 Grip safety question


ksteele1

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Not sure if anyone has posted this solution yet. (I'm too lazy to read that far)  A good 1911 smith can make the grip safety engage completely, so you can press the trigger hard, and then release with very little movement.   Literally, just a touch from the web of your hand. It's just understanding the geometry of the way the safety arcs out of the way of the trigger stirrup.

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On 30/11/2016 at 1:09 AM, g.willikers said:

It's surprising that with all the manufacturers making 1911s, someone hasn't offered a no grip safety option by now.

If memory serves, Mr. Browning's original design didn't have one.

The army insisted on one as substitute for poor training.

 

 

svi for one has had them for many years. they make a non functioning beaver tail. no grip safety action. 

 

PS I love the bruce gray hard tail mod. for anyone who wanted to retain a grip safety it will ensure it's not causing FTF issues. the problem is those with a high grip will be pushing the web of their hand upwards hard into the beaver tail portion which causes the grip safety to pivot enough that it will stop the trigger bar. it's a common issue. all my competition 1911/2011's are disabled and pinned but the gray bard tail would be an option if I needed to keep it functional for some reason. :)

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  • 2 months later...
On ‎12‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 8:38 AM, Yeti said:

Like the others have already said, IDPA says no.   

Tune it for better effect while still leaving it fully operational.  

Too much spring tension?  Bend the right leg/leaf of the sear spring to lessen the effort of fully engaging the grip safety.  Do this slowly and creep up on the result.

If the disengagement point is too far inward?  You can remove material from the grip safety tang where it meets the back of the trigger bow.  Slooooowly and carefully creep up on the result!  You will ruin the GS if you get too aggro.

 

Here is your answer! 

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  • 1 month later...

I added moleskin for blisters on the back of my grip safety to build the hump up and above it to help with engaging it with a real high grip and not huge hands. Works fine so far and I will be doing it on my SS rig as well when I eventually buy some more moleskin.

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Since the grip safety spring is a separate finger on the sear spring, just lighten the spring til it will reliably deactivate.

 

Secondly, make sure the web of your hand is not pressing up on the bottom of the beavertail. (I had that problem for a while)

 

Third, grip the gun tighter.

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Ok, I'll help you out here. 

 

First, I shot 1911 for a year thumb down and had no problems at all. Everyone kept telling me the right way was riding the safety, all the experts say that. So I started trying that. (I shoot no better than I did before. I think it made doodle squat difference, didn't make me worse though so I keep doing it)

 

for the first time though I had a couple times where my grip safety disengaged. I figured out that on my main gun the ambi safeties ride high. So when really bearing down on that thumb I'd bring my grip up too much and the grip safety would pivot. On my other 1911 with a lower safety I had no problem. 

 

I swapped the factory safety for a Harrison single sided that rides lower. It made all the difference no more issues since w the grip safety. 

 

Red

PS I plan to pin it anyways just haven't gotten around to it. 

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  • 10 months later...
On 12/5/2016 at 7:38 AM, Yeti said:

Like the others have already said, IDPA says no.   

Tune it for better effect while still leaving it fully operational.  

Too much spring tension?  Bend the right leg/leaf of the sear spring to lessen the effort of fully engaging the grip safety.  Do this slowly and creep up on the result.

If the disengagement point is too far inward?  You can remove material from the grip safety tang where it meets the back of the trigger bow.  Slooooowly and carefully creep up on the result!  You will ruin the GS if you get too aggro.

This I had the same problem and had a friend tune mine. It works great now

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