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Why does my G19, group better than my G34


Kulaglock11

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Very frustrated with the way I shoot my G34 compared to my G19. All shooting is at 25 yrds.
The 34 has had the barrel welded to give a better lock up than when is was stock. I even shoot it with a KKM drop in barrel with no difference in the way it shoots, all over the target, no such group at all, even benching the gun it will not group using all kinds of loads Any tips as to whats going on??

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 Can hold at least a 6" maybe 5" group with G19. The G34 just splatters the hits all over the target with the same load as used in the G19. I swapped out the two locking blocks between them and will be able to try again in couple days. I did read something about a company coming out soon with a aftermarket locking block, and also heard guys saying that the Lone wolf locking block helped with accuracy,

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are the triggers (and connectors, springs etc) identical between the two?  maybe with the shorter sight radius on the 19, you pay a little more attention to your sights and target?  have you shot someone else's (unmodified) g34 to see if that one works better?  or had someone else shoot both of your guns to see how they do?

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You can't swap a G19 locking block with a G34. And what do you mean by had the barrel welded??? Any stock box G34 should run 2" groups even with white box ammo at 25 yards. How did it shoot before the 'welding'? Something is way wrong here. Did somebody grind on the locking block? The only time I've seen any Glock of any model not group at  is because the slide was cracked at the ejection port or at the nose ring that the recoil spring assy fits into. Now if this welding was done in the area of the recoil spring detent  on the barrel, yea, that could phuhck it up real good. The red arrows point to a stay out zone do not touch do not alter do not even look at it

 

image37477.jpg

 

 

G17 L, G19 R

image37322.jpg

 

 

Edited by 9x45
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Hi, I like the feed back and great info I am getting here. The barrel had a slight build up of metal and then worked down to make a much tighter lockup. There are a number of match shooters in my area that had this mod done with the gun shooting better than stock. I am going to give my 34 a real good inspection, then try again and see what happens. Again thanks for advice on the two locking blocks not working!!

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Have you checked the slide to frame tolerance? These frames go from injection to handling in 90 seconds when produced. Anytime I've experienced what your describing the tabs(that run in the slide channel)either were high on only one side or the 2 forward tabs are bilateral high. This extra play leaves a gap between the lug and the block causing the barrel to rachet. Also make sure that the Slide Lock Lever has the groove facing towards the lug and not the opposite.

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Hey BigBoss, thanks for the input, was hoping that I had the slide lock revered, but no its correct. Tabs all seem fine, slide to frame is a nice lock up.

Going to shoot it again tomorrow, hope I can let someone else try it and compare the hits!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/21/2016 at 1:09 PM, Kulaglock11 said:

Hi, I like the feed back and great info I am getting here. The barrel had a slight build up of metal and then worked down to make a much tighter lockup. There are a number of match shooters in my area that had this mod done with the gun shooting better than stock. I am going to give my 34 a real good inspection, then try again and see what happens. Again thanks for advice on the two locking blocks not working!!

Could you provide photos of this?  I'm having a hard time figuring out where someone would weld up on the barrel?  Both my 19 (gen 3 and 4) and my gen 4 34 have a tight lock up.  I can't see how/where one could weld and not effect accuracy negatively. 

Edited by emm66
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Any follow up?

I've heard of welding Glock barrels, and I remember seeing the service offered on Bill Springfield's website. I have not seen any in person or read too many reviews. I do however have a Glock 17 that does not group as well as my Glock 34 (both stock barrels "fit" feel about the same) so I am interested in hearing your outcome Kulaglock.

I think the slide lock and locking block are more important than the recoil spring but I could be wrong.

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Well, again tried both my G19 and G34 today with same ammo, same results!! Both benching and shooting offhand at 25 yds. The G19 will keep all hits in the black area of a std. bulls eye target. The G34 still puts hits all over the entire target. Others have fired the 34 with same results. Have to admit the triggers in both guns are a little different in pull weight, and thinking back that when I first got the 34 and then had the barrel lug built up, the gun shot well. I really don't have that many rounds thru the barrel so I would think the barrel is not worn out at all! Having the barrel lug welded and then refit did help alot with the play in the slide and locking block and the gun functions fine. There is very little difference in grouping even when I put my KKM barrel in the 34.

Really don't know what to do next with the way its shooting, maybe sell it!!

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Just a guess, but maybe whatever welding was done to the barrel lug damaged the locking block which caused these accuracy issues to start.  Maybe you can find a local Glock armorer to take it to, show him what was done to it and ask him to look the gun over.

Oh and another suggestion, don't ever get another barrel welding like that again... ;)

ETA:  also (in case this isn't obvious) if you get a new locking block don't test it with the welded barrel, just try KKM barrel.

Edited by Southpaw
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Glocks run great until you try to tighten them up and fit them with ultra-match-grade triggers.

Gotta embrace the differences between the sloppy Glock and the 2011. Try to turn it into an STI and you're tiptoeing through a minefield.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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