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Stock 2 / Stock 3 : One piece sear installation guide


MemphisMechanic

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On 11/17/2016 at 7:03 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

...here...

IMG_2225.JPG

Trim that spot until your safety can slide underneath it and will engage with the hammer forward, half cocked, and fully cocked.

(You can also grind down the bump on the safety's built in pin. The safety is more expensive if you mess up... but it's easier to test fit it.)

That's all there is to it.

FINAL NOTE: Make sure to place the long leg of the sear spring back into groove in the safety's shaft before installing your slide, or you'll bend (ruin) the spring and gouge the bottom of your slide.

If you're installing a Titan/Bolo combination or other combination of trigger parts, you can focus on fitting them now. I got lucky and didn't need do any fitting at all.

I just got this sear and i noticed its a little shorter on the safety bump. Memphis, is this the only way to fit the safety to the sear?

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Shorter... as in the safety won't tuck underneath that leg of the sear - you can't flip the safety upward and engage it?

That is the only place you file or sand or dremel the sear in order to fit the two parts, yes. It's a simple and rather forgiving operation.

You can grind down the height of the bump on the shaft of the safety, instead. But the safety is a more expensive part that's harder to get.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Be aware if you get grit in the DA pull after all the polishing and have an extreme sear... it's cast like sh*t. No amount of polish or sand paper will smooth it out. This is where the hammer surface rides as it travels rearward. The EAA or any other one piece sear that isn't the extreme is a better option (if you're a trigger snob).

20161026_103632_zpsolxjsala.jpg

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I shoot with my pinky fingers sticking out...does that make me a "trigger snob"?

8 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

Be aware if you get grit in the DA pull after all the polishing and have an extreme sear... it's cast like sh*t. No amount of polish or sand paper will smooth it out. This is where the hammer surface rides as it travels rearward. The EAA or any other one piece sear that isn't the extreme is a better option (if you're a trigger snob).

20161026_103632_zpsolxjsala.jpg

 

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Finally got around to polishing my extreme sear. It doesn't look nearly as bad as that one does there is one spot in it that won't polish but overall not bad. Neither the extreme sear or cage polish well at all. They'll take a ton of work to smooth compared to he hammer and other pieces. 

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  • 3 months later...

If the goal is to eventually install a 1pc. sear, Bolo and Titan is it better to wait and do all at once or install the sear now and eventually add the other parts?

My concern is removing material from the safety & extended FPB while fitting the sear I may need later once I install the other parts.

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2 hours ago, NWfront said:

If the goal is to eventually install a 1pc. sear, Bolo and Titan is it better to wait and do all at once or install the sear now and eventually add the other parts?

My concern is removing material from the safety & extended FPB while fitting the sear I may need later once I install the other parts.

 

Only speaking from my experience...  you can install the 1-pc sear now without needing to fit the safety.  Once you drop in the Titan you will need to fit your safety.  I would install the Bolo concurrent with the Titan.

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2 minutes ago, Sniperboy said:

 

Only speaking from my experience...  you can install the 1-pc sear now without needing to fit the safety.  Once you drop in the Titan you will need to fit your safety.  I would install the Bolo concurrent with the Titan.

 

What he said. The Titan's hammer hooks are repositioned so the sear and safety interact differently.

 

For now? Install a one piece sear. You may need an extended firing pin block. Odds are greater than 50/50 on that I believe.

 

Later on, drop the BOLO and Titan in as a pair, and fit the sear to the safety.

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I would add that for my instance I did not need an extended firing pin block (FPB) when I had the 1-pc sear, stock hammer and stock firing pin in the pistol.  When I installed my PDO firing pin, my FPB no longer worked and I now need an extended one.

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15 hours ago, Sniperboy said:

I would add that for my instance I did not need an extended firing pin block (FPB) when I had the 1-pc sear, stock hammer and stock firing pin in the pistol.  When I installed my PDO firing pin, my FPB no longer worked and I now need an extended one.

 

It's pretty likely that you will need the extended fpb once you change the hammer or FP.

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I received and installed the 1-pc sear.  How do I know if I need the extended FPB?  Will the issue be not blocking the pin at all or not release it soon enough?

It seems good with the stock fpb moving out of the way just barely as the hammer is released in SA.  

Edited by NWfront
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Pull back the hammer to single action then without depressing the trigger try to push the back of the firing pin with a punch.  You should not be able to push it in.

Then with your thumb on the hammer pull the trigger slowly and try to push the pin down concurrently through its travel, holding the hammer back.  It should only release when the trigger is pulled a certain distance..  at least this is how I checked it.

 

If you are bored, prove to yourself that everything is in order by putting all your stock parts back and repeat and compare the results of your exercise.

Edited by Sniperboy
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Tested and I think It's good.  It is completely blocking the fp with the hammer fully cocked back and then clears it when the sear is about 2/3 off the hammer hooks.  Does this sound right?

It just threw me off because if anything it almost looked like the fpb could be shorter. 

I will also add that my safety had the same if not more clearance.  For me this was truely a drop in part.  

 

Edited by NWfront
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4 minutes ago, emjei said:

In Conclusion : Is the One Piece Sear the same as the Xtreme (except finish) ?????

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

if your referring to the EAA sear then yes its the same besides the finish and overall quality. 

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if your referring to the EAA sear then yes its the same besides the finish and overall quality. 


Thanks Joe... Im putting together a 2nd Stock 2

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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  • 5 months later...

wondering if this is still the case? 

I am new to the forum and I have watched your polishing videos at least 40 times in the last week (Memphis) :) 
I am in the process of purchasing a competition pistol to upgrade my current platform and I have decided that I am going to go full on with the stock II.

 

I am debating whether to go with the extreme or the regular stock 2 (I do not like the looks of cerakote) so I am leaning towards the regular stock 2 and upgrade all the internals with extreme parts, however, wondering if this is worth it after reading the comments, some extreme parts have flaws?

 

This is going to be quite the project for me, as I am going to purchase the gun and I am going to work on the parts by basically using this forum and youtube videos as guidance. I believe I can do it and the pistol seems very easy in operation, it is just going to be a time consuming event.

 

Should I purchase the extreme sear or perhaps just keep using the sear and sear cage that comes with the stock 2?

Any benefits to purchasing a extreme sear cage or is that throwing money to the pigs?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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