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So I just bought a stock2


Nathanb

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Figured it was time for me to get a pretty gun and as far as I'm concerned this is one of the best looking production guns on the market. With that being said, it's a stock gun and who's got time for that. What are the mods that need to be done to this thing?  I see bolo hammer and springs with a fiber front sight. Anything else?  

Couple cosmetic things are on my list too. Are the safety takedown and mag release compatible with other models? I'd like to chrome them if possible to make it appear similar to the Limited pro that first got me looking at tanfos. What grips. I see small frame and large frame and I'm not sure what ones are correct.  Coming from a glock 34 they are very different in their large frame and small frame references. I believe the large frames are all tangos now. Is that correct?  I realize those are minor things but parts get expensive when you're buying stuff and it doesn't fit. 

thanks guys. School me up here. 

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The first 5 things are all polish, polish, polish, polish and...polish. Kneelingatlas has a good thread on polishing the platform.

The best springs right now are from Patriot Defense. Trigger return, sear, hammer and firing pin return spring.  Get 12, 13, 14 hammer springs and see which is reliable with your ammo. Then 1 piece sear, titan hammer and bolo as a set. I think you can buy hard chrome controls as used on limited. Dawson has nice fiber posts. Remember to plunk test ammo. Lots of short chambers.

Some will be ecstatic with just polishing( should be about 8da/ 3 +SA).  Some are happy after changing springs and getting to 6- 6 1/2da. Others get down to 5da. Your choice.

EAA pretty much has only imported large frame in recent years.  I prefer Henning grips, EG grips are too thin, but my son prefers them. 

Edited by johnbu
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Yes I do plan on shooting it first. That way I know it functions and I'm responsible for screwing it up. 

 

Good info all around ive been doing some research but coming from a glock the new abbreviations and such are a bit confusing. Tough tonscrew up a glock

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6 minutes ago, Nathanb said:

Yes I do plan on shooting it first. That way I know it functions and I'm responsible for screwing it up. 

 

Good info all around ive been doing some research but coming from a glock the new abbreviations and such are a bit confusing. Tough tonscrew up a glock

I took mine apart to detail clean before shooting....8 hours later it was polished. Never did shoot it box fresh...either one.  lol. 

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3 minutes ago, aceinyerface said:

Extended firing pin, upgraded guide rod, click pen plunger spring. 10lb recoil spring. Xtreme fiber,  13lb (I think) hammer spring.

 

lots of 1000 grit sandpaper.

Who makes an extended firing pin?. I have the Extreme in mine and with a 12lb hammer spring I'm setting of Fed primers but not Win primers reliably.  I put a 14lb in mine last night and just need to get out to test.

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Who makes an extended firing pin?. I have the Extreme in mine and with a 12lb hammer spring I'm setting of Fed primers but not Win primers reliably.  I put a 14lb in mine last night and just need to get out to test.



Only Henning does. But it's too light, don't buy it.

Wait for PD to come out with their extended, heavier pin.
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http://www.ericgrauffelonlineshop.com/en/upper-parts/216-tanfoglio-xtreme-firing-pin.html

 

I'm using a gen 2 henning, but I wouldn't hesitate to use xtreme.




lol I should make a thread.... a public service announcement. That the xtreme pin is nearly IDENTICAL to the stock pin. It is the same length, same weight, the only difference is the hammer impact surface is a dome, and not flat like on the stock one.
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Read stuff here and look at You Tube videos.  Then polish....I'm not a mechanical person and I could take the thing apart and put it back together.  One word of advise.....Don't skimp and NOT polish something.  I didn't polish the hole where the hammer spring goes in (I forgot).  Lots of polishing little things adds up to a great trigger job you did on your own.  That counts for something (I think).  Watch the springs.....I lost the mag release plunger (replaced with a finishing nail head) and the extractor spring.  Take your time & enjoy! 

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32 minutes ago, Shootnscoot said:

Im considering a Stock 2 and would have the same questions as Nathanb. So what's the initial investment of these basic upgrades?

50 bucks for polishing compound and a full set of PD springs.

40 for cone fit guide rod. 40 for dawson fiber post.

That is the "basic" or minimim.

Bolo, sear, titan, grips...300.

 

 

 

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My personal shopping list. I'm opting to skip the Titan hammer and will potentially install it at a later date. Run the factory firing pin. This is for a stock III, so you'd need the shorter guide rod and spring for an S-II.

S3 build

$39      Dawson front
$4.       XP extractor spr
$9.       Recoil spring 8lb or 10
$10.     PD hammer spring
$9.       PD FP Spring
$4.       PD sear spring
$60?    Holster body from Ben's Pro Shop
$90.     Magazines (6) from CDNN
$40      Guide rod

$46.     Bolo Disconnector
$35.     Sear
$15.     Xtreme FP Block

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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IMO if you are going to go with a titan hammer in the future, get it now. 

For one thing the bolo is designed for the EGD hammer. You will have more fitting for the stock one. Also, later when you get the hammer you are going to have to get another disconnector. So $100 now to get the titan hammer, or $150 later (and your first $46 dollar bolo disco that does you no good sitting in a drawer). Personally I'd get the hammer now. 

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Best thing to do is run it stock to make sure it works... If it doesn't, send it back to EAA to have it repaired. Once you confirm it lights factory primers in all types of ammo, figure out what ammo you will use for the matches. My gun will light CCIs 99% of the time... I have a curse of malfs on classifiers... Never a malf in 200 rounds... Then like getting sucker punched in the nutsack, 2 on a classifier stage. 

Polish the trigger bar, the plunger the part that contacts the trigger bar and the plunger rod itself, the hammer strut... Literally everything that has a shiny wear surface on it when you finish your first outing needs to be hit with a felt wheel and some blue magic. Don't use sand paper, if you are going to need to abrade anything, get an Arkansas stone. Sandpaper cuts rather quick.

After that shoot it again and see how you like it.

My gun has: polished internals (obviously) 10lbs recoil spring, canik floating trigger pin, standard trigger return spring, CGW CZ light firing pin spring for the plunger spring, BOLO, 1 piece sear (in original stock2 cage), Titan hammer with a 14lbs patriot defense spring, original Stock2 firing pin, and the patriot defense firing pin spring.

DA pull is 5lbs 5oz and SA pull is 2lbs 5oz. Measured as the average of 5 pulls on a Lyman digital gauge, straight back level with barrel etc etc etc.

With that setup I was 99% With CCI which is middle of the road hardness. I now have 10k Winchester primers inbound. Here is the thing... Light strikes happen for many reasons. One is that the cartridge MAY not be seated properly in chamber. So I got off the phone with Bevin Grams yesterday, After he had reamed out the chamber, he said he had to lengthen the chamber by like 15%, but now I can load to magazine length with any projectiles I want (124gr JHP precision deltas). After talking with him further, he said every tanfo chamber he has seen has been short, very short. So until you want to mess with that, use 115gr FMJs since they are the easiest to fit into the chamber... For the most part.

Part of it is, what parts do you want... The other part is... What parts do you need. Make sure the gun runs 100% first, before you start doing anything... Unless you want to be on your own to try and troubleshoot a misbehaving gun. Internet diagnosis only goes so far. Look at webmd... You put in that you have a runny nose, you either have a cold or a brain tumor. 

Edited by ryridesmotox
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Best thing to do is run it stock to make sure it works... If it doesn't, send it back to EAA to have it repaired. Once you confirm it lights factory primers in all types of ammo, figure out what ammo you will use for the matches. My gun will light CCIs 99% of the time... I have a curse of malfs on classifiers... Never a malf in 200 rounds... Then like getting sucker punched in the nutsack, 2 on a classifier stage. 

Polish the trigger bar, the plunger the part that contacts the trigger bar and the plunger rod itself, the hammer strut... Literally everything that has a shiny wear surface on it when you finish your first outing needs to be hit with a felt wheel and some blue magic. Don't use sand paper, if you are going to need to abrade anything, get an Arkansas stone. Sandpaper cuts rather quick.

After that shoot it again and see how you like it.

My gun has: polished internals (obviously) 10lbs recoil spring, canik floating trigger pin, standard trigger return spring, CGW CZ light firing pin spring for the plunger spring, BOLO, 1 piece sear (in original stock2 cage), Titan hammer with a 14lbs patriot defense spring, original Stock2 firing pin, and the patriot defense firing pin spring.

DA pull is 5lbs 5oz and SA pull is 2lbs 5oz. Measured as the average of 5 pulls on a Lyman digital gauge, straight back level with barrel etc etc etc.

With that setup I was 99% With CCI which is middle of the road hardness. I now have 10k Winchester primers inbound. Here is the thing... Light strikes happen for many reasons. One is that the cartridge MAY not be seated properly in chamber. So I got off the phone with Bevin Grams yesterday, After he had reamed out the chamber, he said he had to lengthen the chamber by like 15%, but now I can load to magazine length with any projectiles I want (124gr JHP precision deltas). After talking with him further, he said every tanfo chamber he has seen has been short, very short. So until you want to mess with that, use 115gr FMJs since they are the easiest to fit into the chamber... For the most part.

Part of it is, what parts do you want... The other part is... What parts do you need. Make sure the gun runs 100% first, before you start doing anything... Unless you want to be on your own to try and troubleshoot a misbehaving gun. Internet diagnosis only goes so far. Look at webmd... You put in that you have a runny nose, you either have a cold or a brain tumor. 



What was the turn around time for him to ream the barrel?
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He got it on Saturday... It was mailed on Monday... It's in his shop 1 business day before it's in a priority box back to you. Hell I'm close enough where I could have driven to him and he would have done it while I waited. But work schedule dicated otherwise. 

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7 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

He got it on Saturday... It was mailed on Monday... It's in his shop 1 business day before it's in a priority box back to you. Hell I'm close enough where I could have driven to him and he would have done it while I waited. But work schedule dicated otherwise. 

Good to hear how quick he is.  I have a last match this Sunday, after that 4 barrels need to get his gentle touch.

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It showed up today. I was holding my breath because of how hard everyone said it was to get one. First impressions are it looks better in person than online. I'm going to take it out tomorrow and see what I think in live fire. What a world of difference from the glocks I normally shoot

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