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new 1911, many malfunctions (same one over and over)


cpa5oh

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I bought an STI Duty One in .40 and ran it today at a USPSA match. Almost every time I got to the last round in the magazine, the slide locked back. Seems obvious what the problem is: when the follower gets up to the top of the magazine, when the slide tries to strip a round out of the magazine and into the chamber, the front of the follower is getting hung up on the front of the magazine (won't push down) and the slide locks open.

Here's a link to the mags I've got: http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Tripp-10mm-10-Round-Government-System-Magazine-wBasepad-P3334.aspx

If you push on the follower from the top with bias to the front of the follower, you can feel metal on metal scraping (if the follower isn't so hung up on the front of the mag that it doesn't push down at all).

Anyone experienced this and is there a solution? Probably should've got the "Corey" mags, but I kinda wanted the option of shooting major or minor (I think the "Corey" mags only run 9 rounds).

Thanks!

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If you're feeling adventurous atlas gunworks has a number of YouTube videos to assist shade tree gunsmiths. Slide stop tuning is one of them as is mag tuning. Slide lock with rounds remaining requires tuning one or both of these items. If that isn't your thing, the previous posters advice is sound.

Edit to add links.

Edited by fishsticks
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Nonsense. Tune your followers. It is absolutely possible to modify the followers so the slide annot lock back, even with an unmodified slide stop.

If you are never, ever going to shoot in competitions that require slide lock, you can certainly modify the slide stop, but why? Why risk modifying a$50 part when modifying an $8 part will do.

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Nonsense?

Why modify 6 parts when you could modify 1?

If he does the slide stop he could make it still lock back if he wants. Those followers don't look like they have enough meat to tune them like that.

Why file metal when you can file plastic?

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White boy, the mags he has have the Tripp 'flex' follower. It's steel. It's nothing like a normal plastic 1911 (or 2011) follower.

Firstly he needs to diagnose what is causing slide lock. It may actually be the bullet nose of the last round which is activating the slide stop. In that case the easiest option is tune the slidestop as dan suggested.

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Thank you for the replies - I'm going to "tune" the slide stop. (I do everything on my guns myself even when I don't know what I'm doing :-)) Probably going to end up with the gun not going to slide lock, which I'd be okay with (I'll never be a single stack specialist - just a fun thing for second gun or when I don't feel like being competitive, and I struggled like hell to get off slide lock with this gun anyhow: would have been easier to just rack it when on "E").

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Yeah I just got done tuning the slide stop - after watching that Atlas video, I was able to see what what happening: the last bullet in a magazine was being pulled forward a little bit and it was catching the slide stop. I didn't totally disable the slide stop because I remembered that if I did I might have issues with mags not ejecting with any force and then getting hung up, but with a lot of the meat taken off the slide stop it seems to disengage much easier. I do want the slide stop totally disabled, but I gotta look into how to do that and not have mag ejection issues.

Next, I gotta see why it feels like something is grinding between the frame, barrel, and slide about a 1/4 of the way into the slide returning to battery from recoil (has nothing to do with magazines/ammo because it happens when I rack the slide without either and might not even be noticeable while shooting).

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That was exactly the cause of the grinding: polished it up and while you can feel the slide hit the disconnect, after that it's smooth into battery. Thanks so much!

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