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Extractor Tuning


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Hi, I am having one of those FTE issues on the picture below with my stock 2

I recently have changed my stock extractor to the new 9 marked extractor. Ever since, I am having FTE issues. prolly 1 out of 200 or 300.

I researched hard and I found out that I need to tune my extractor.

BUTT!! I am confused where to file. Please look at the bottom picture. Do I need to file #1? or #2?

I have a couple of the extractor and I have tried filing both #1 & #2 but I was scared to file too much. I filed .005 and didn't see any change.

When I do the extractor test where you slide a brass rim into the extractor, It is pretty tight. maybe too tight?

Another thing is when I put the old extractor back, the slide closes completely and smoothly when the slide is closing slowly by hand. The new extractor doesn't completely closes because the rim of the case is not going into the extractor.

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I really appreciate any help. Thank you

Edited by hwansikcjswo
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Oh man, good luck. I have found general rules that apply most of the time.

Failure to eject

1. To much extractor tension

2. Slow slide speed, recoil spring to heavy, slide being slowed down by burrs and other stuff.

3. Gun not going in and of battery correctly due to barrel fit issues. Check for burrs on barrel lugs, barrel hood, breach face, etc.

4. Extractor binding due to burrs and carbon buildup. Poor surface finishes can prohibit carbon from moving out of the way of moving parts.

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File on #2 only to increase extractor tension which it sounds like you have too much of. So you don't need to do that, what you can do however is file on the inside of the notch of #1 to relieve some of the excess tension and any burrs that may be causing the brass to hang on the extractor. Try removing the slide and use a dummy round to see where the extractor is touching the brass when in battery and then take your finger and simulate the ejection process to see where it is hanging before you do any filing.

Another thing that can cause it not to extract properly is the case rim on the brass is flattened some during the reloading process from the brass being pulled out of the sizing die. This is caused by not using sizing lubricant, so that the brass sticks in the die which causes the shell plate to damage the brass. Just something else to check.

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I read elsewhere in this forum that someone else had an issue with FTFs or FTEs partially due to a burr on the outside of the breechface at the firing pin hole. Check the breechface for smoothness too. (Although I believe that caused a failure to feed, it cannot hurt to check!)

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Update.

I filed the inner side of the hook a lot more. Didn't have any malf in 200 rounds.

However, when I examined the fired case, the rim of the case is scratched out on all of them. I suspect the hook of the extractor is sharpened.

I will order more extractors and try tuning agian

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Your slide is most likely travel to slowly reward and the case is still ejecting as the slide goes forward.

If you are using the same recoil spring I would really go through the gun looking for and burrs or wear that could be causing slide impediment or timing issues with barrel unlocking.

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Update.

I filed the inner side of the hook a lot more. Didn't have any malf in 200 rounds.

However, when I examined the fired case, the rim of the case is scratched out on all of them. I suspect the hook of the extractor is sharpened.

I will order more extractors and try tuning agian

It wouldn't hurt to order a few spare extractors but this one should work. Just run your finger over the extractor hook to find the sharp spot and hit it with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out the edge. That should fix the brass scratching problem.

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Try an extra power extractor spring with a new extractor. Put it together and slide a piece of brass under the extractor. It the rim of the case should deflect the extractor slightly. If it does not the take a small amount of material off of the #2 position then retest.

Also keep in mind that the extra power extractor spring may be a little too long for the depth of the hole drilled into the slide. If the hole is drilled shallow then the spring will coil bind when installed. You may have to cut a coil or two off of the spring to keep it from coil binding. When the spring is the proper length you should be able to deflect the extractor by hand quite a ways. Far enough that it can move past the rim of the case if a round was in the chamber with the slide locked back and you drop the slide forward. The extractor should have enough travel to move past the rim and catch on it like a normally chambered round.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update : The problem has not fixed yet.

I used one coil cut XP extractor spring but the problem is still present.

I also have changed the ejector (the whole sear housing) and did not fix the problem.

I put xp extractor springs in 3 guns without cutting coils. Had some fail to feed on the next few, but after that 100%.

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  • 1 year later...
1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

I'm certain that @hwansikcjswo got his gun fixed... and then shelved it to go rake in mad Walther money. ;) 

 

Hopefully he'll be along in a day or two.

 

(Using his name in the blue box like I just did will cause him to receive a notification next time he logs in.)

I believe he sold it but could be wrong.

 

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On 7/18/2017 at 7:54 PM, darthdively said:

Have you resolved your problems? I'm running into same feed issue.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

 

I have fixed it.

 

So It was an actually easy solution. 

 

I bought 3 different extractors that are made by different branches. ( One has "9:" mark on it, the other 2 has no marks on it). You can buy them from Eric G shop, Ben S shop, EAA, and more shops. I don't know which sells which branch extractor.

 

One of them worked perfectly to my gun. 

 

I heard there are a couple of different branches that made Tanfo parts and the specs vary.

 

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