hlpressley Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Curious what you guys running for recoil spring weight in your Gen4 Production 34's? I'm running 147gr ammo making about 128pf if that matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowenbuilt Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 I run a 13# spring in all of mine and it works perfectly with that PF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polymer Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 13 pounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpaw Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 This gets asked somewhat regularly. General consensus is 13lb. for 9 and .40 minor and 15lb. for .40 major. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 I run an 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&W686 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 I have always ran a 13lb spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWS Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 12lb Spring with 147gr at 130PF (although chrono'd at 126 PF at Area 1). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunner50 Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 So it's good to know what people are running but the question is why? The lighter the spring the harder it hits the slide block.....Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigtimelarry Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Curious what you guys running for recoil spring weight in your Gen4 Production 34's? I'm running 147gr ammo making about 128pf if that matters. Start with an ISMI 13 lb spring. If it's too bouncy cut a coil or 2 off.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetskidawg Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 How about for a G19 at 130 PF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbob21 Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 I run an 11# in a 34... Works well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polymer Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 So it's good to know what people are running but the question is why? The lighter the spring the harder it hits the slide block.....Correct? Reloading ammo to proper minor power factor more reliable with lighter spring, shoots flatter, can even help with ejecting brass. Not going to damage gun unless you're shooting over powered ammo or factory +p type stuff. Everyone uses 11 to 13 lbs. Experiment. I've always used 13 lbs but am going to experiment with 11 lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polymer Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 How about for a G19 at 130 PF? I think with the glock 19, people use 15 lb spring. Don't quote me on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfinney Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 13 ISMI. Don't overthink it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyjones Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 I had issues w/ a 13lb, had to go up to 14. I had issues with the slide not going into battery after only 500 rounds with a 13lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 The thing about going light on the Recoil Spring on a striker-fired gun (of which Glocks, M&P, and XD's are prime examples) is that you end up playing a balancing game between the Recoil Spring and the Striker Spring. Go with a "too light" RS and the standard power striker spring, you end up with a gun that won't quite go into battery, especially if there's any little hiccup with the incoming round catching on anything. Had a guy at last month's local match shooting an XDm 5.25 in 45 and having all sorts of problems. He has a slightly lighter-than-stock RS with the standard Striker spring (left that in because of hard primers that he was forced to use during the shortage). I looked at it and found that when the striker was down, the slide was being held closed forcefully by the RS. If you cocked the gun, you could push it out-of-battery easily. It felt like it had a 5 pound RS in it until you moved the slide back to the point where the striker was lifted off of the sear, then it got tough again. I say that to say this: On a Glock, with the standard Firing Pin Spring, you'll PROBABLY be okay with a 13# spring. With a 4#, you'll definitely be alright. If you try to go with an 11#, it probably won't work with the 5.5# FPS and may be intermittent with the 4#. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyjones Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 The thing about going light on the Recoil Spring on a striker-fired gun (of which Glocks, M&P, and XD's are prime examples) is that you end up playing a balancing game between the Recoil Spring and the Striker Spring. Go with a "too light" RS and the standard power striker spring, you end up with a gun that won't quite go into battery, especially if there's any little hiccup with the incoming round catching on anything. Had a guy at last month's local match shooting an XDm 5.25 in 45 and having all sorts of problems. He has a slightly lighter-than-stock RS with the standard Striker spring (left that in because of hard primers that he was forced to use during the shortage). I looked at it and found that when the striker was down, the slide was being held closed forcefully by the RS. If you cocked the gun, you could push it out-of-battery easily. It felt like it had a 5 pound RS in it until you moved the slide back to the point where the striker was lifted off of the sear, then it got tough again. I say that to say this: On a Glock, with the standard Firing Pin Spring, you'll PROBABLY be okay with a 13# spring. With a 4#, you'll definitely be alright. If you try to go with an 11#, it probably won't work with the 5.5# FPS and may be intermittent with the 4#. Not sure I follow the relationship between a recoil spring and a striker spring. The striker spring doesn't assist in bringing the gun into battery - that's all in the recoil spring. The only thing you might get with a lightened striker spring is light strikes on the primer - FTF's. Not failure to go into battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 I guess it's good my striker spring isn't stock then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 (edited) The thing about going light on the Recoil Spring on a striker-fired gun (of which Glocks, M&P, and XD's are prime examples) is that you end up playing a balancing game between the Recoil Spring and the Striker Spring. Go with a "too light" RS and the standard power striker spring, you end up with a gun that won't quite go into battery, especially if there's any little hiccup with the incoming round catching on anything. Had a guy at last month's local match shooting an XDm 5.25 in 45 and having all sorts of problems. He has a slightly lighter-than-stock RS with the standard Striker spring (left that in because of hard primers that he was forced to use during the shortage). I looked at it and found that when the striker was down, the slide was being held closed forcefully by the RS. If you cocked the gun, you could push it out-of-battery easily. It felt like it had a 5 pound RS in it until you moved the slide back to the point where the striker was lifted off of the sear, then it got tough again. I say that to say this: On a Glock, with the standard Firing Pin Spring, you'll PROBABLY be okay with a 13# spring. With a 4#, you'll definitely be alright. If you try to go with an 11#, it probably won't work with the 5.5# FPS and may be intermittent with the 4#. Not sure I follow the relationship between a recoil spring and a striker spring. The striker spring doesn't assist in bringing the gun into battery - that's all in the recoil spring. The only thing you might get with a lightened striker spring is light strikes on the primer - FTF's. Not failure to go into battery. What Braxton1 said was correct, the striker acts in the opposing direction of the recoil spring in a Glock. Don't know about other plastic guns. Edited June 13, 2016 by leemoe83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeyjones Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 The thing about going light on the Recoil Spring on a striker-fired gun (of which Glocks, M&P, and XD's are prime examples) is that you end up playing a balancing game between the Recoil Spring and the Striker Spring. Go with a "too light" RS and the standard power striker spring, you end up with a gun that won't quite go into battery, especially if there's any little hiccup with the incoming round catching on anything. Had a guy at last month's local match shooting an XDm 5.25 in 45 and having all sorts of problems. He has a slightly lighter-than-stock RS with the standard Striker spring (left that in because of hard primers that he was forced to use during the shortage). I looked at it and found that when the striker was down, the slide was being held closed forcefully by the RS. If you cocked the gun, you could push it out-of-battery easily. It felt like it had a 5 pound RS in it until you moved the slide back to the point where the striker was lifted off of the sear, then it got tough again. I say that to say this: On a Glock, with the standard Firing Pin Spring, you'll PROBABLY be okay with a 13# spring. With a 4#, you'll definitely be alright. If you try to go with an 11#, it probably won't work with the 5.5# FPS and may be intermittent with the 4#. Not sure I follow the relationship between a recoil spring and a striker spring. The striker spring doesn't assist in bringing the gun into battery - that's all in the recoil spring. The only thing you might get with a lightened striker spring is light strikes on the primer - FTF's. Not failure to go into battery. What Braxton1 said was correct, the striker acts in the opposing direction of the recoil spring in a Glock. Don't know about other plastic guns. So if you lighten the striker spring, wouldn't that make the gun go into battery more easily? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Yes it will. That's why I specified the difference between OEM springs and the lightened "competition-only" Firing Pin/Striker Springs. We're only talking about the last 1/4 inch of going into battery, because that's where the striker will engage the sear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocket99 Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 I run a 13# with 125gr bullets in my 34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTaylor Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 Agreed with the 13lb recoil and striker spring. My G34 & 35 would not go into battery with a 13lb recoil spring. They hang about 1/8-1/4 out of battery, once swapping to a ZEV lightened spring it went in just fine. Please realize that if you run a lightened striker spring you should really run a lightened striker too. It is just extra insurance against light primer strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DreGarciaTAT2 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Of course there are numerous other factors that play a role in a Glock not going into battery... I love shooting minor 40, 200gr, with an 11# spring, but I really have to mind the cleanliness of the firearm... It can get dirty quick! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1911 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I'm running 147gr in my G34. I tried a 13 lb ISMI spring in it last weekend, and I think it is oversprung -- the empties were falling very close to my feet. I've put in an 11 lb spring, but I haven't had a chance to test it yet. I'll try it this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now