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Factory ammo in 2011 guns


tannerlc

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How many people shoot factory ammo in your 2011? I have a 2011 STI just got it recently, and was told i should reload that shooting factory ammo is just asking for problems. I honestly just dont have the time to reload id rather spend the extra and just buy already loaded ammo. Does anyone recommend some good factory ammo that runs well for competition

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I use freedom munition.com for 40 180gr RNFP @176 power factor for $12.00 a box plus shipping. Not only is it close to power factor I was loading for limited div, it is close to 2005 prices for box of 50.

I also like their 147gr 9mm for 3-gun. Their load on that is very soft. It is barely over 130 power factor.

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i've run a variety of factory .40 ammo (fed am eagle 180, blazer aluminum 165 and 180) and related ammo thru my Edge with no problems. i also run atlanta arms major and minor (with a lighter spring) with no issues. atlanta major is nice as it recoils less than the normal factory ammo.

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When Infirst purchased my Edge, I shot about 1000 WWB, to break in and for the brass, and it worked flawlessly, I am now loading to 1.17 and it's flawless too, reloading for me is to tune the round to the gun, softer shooting mainly. Atlanta Arms for factory ammo.

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I have had three different 2011s and they have all been slightly different from an ammunition perspective. I have a Frankenstein 40 Edge and 9mm Eagle that will run pretty much anything, but I also had a DVC that struggled to run anything reliably (This was later remedied by STI). Whether or not your gun will run factory ammo is based upon a few variables. Some contributing factors are your magazines, feed ramp angle, barrel ramp transition, extractor and bullet profile. If all of these variables are acceptable, my assumption would be that your gun will work. However, there is definitely a difference between what will work and what is optimized. In my previous 40 setup, I tried everything from factory length to 1.20." The shorter rounds would feed, but there was definitely some chunkiness when they went into the chamber. 1.190" seemed to be perfect for my setup and is what I use today. You can get a good idea of if the round will work by slowly hand cycling the rounds through the gun (Do this at the range or with a shortened firing pin). If there is a lot of chunkiness, the gun may work during live fire, but it could be more prone to malfunction if your grip breaks down during a stage.

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Mine is a stil slide to frame kit i bought already assembled dont have alot of info on the gun its stroked and has a buffer in it, trigger is really nice breaks crisp at 2.5lbs has def. had trigger work STI barrel. i bought 4 dawson tuned mags 20rds reloadable. When it was shipped to me the slide was a little sloppy so i took it to my smith he is doing some blending, re cerakote it and change the springs in the gun barrel looked like it had not been shot much i havent shot it yet ill pic it back up this week. i will run some ammo tests with it i already have aome winchester white box and some Federal ill try first then go from there.

Edited by tannerlc
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  • 4 months later...

The gun is not usually the problem with factory ammo as much as the mags.  We are loading 9 and 40 into a mag/gun that was designed around the .45.  Some say accuracy is better with a bullet that is as close to the lands as possible.  As long as your mags feed the shorter ammo and you meet PF you should be perfectly fine.  2011 mags are finicky b!tches and longer ammo seems to feed more reliably.  I personally run 1.22 OAL.  Factory ammo in a 2011 is not an option for me because unreliable feeding is not an option for me.  YMMV 

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I shot my 2011 for the first time last night, didn't pay attention to the weight of the ammo when I picked it up. Got 165s that had a very flat point about 1 in 10 would give me some issues. I am going to look for a different bullet for my next tests. I don't have dies to start reloading .40 yet.

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