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Glock firing at re-set


nwhpfan

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My glock is firing at reset. I've shot maybe 20k through it plus a years worth of dry fires.

The trigger/trigger bar is stock and I have an IDP striker, Ghost Edge connector, and ZEV ejector block. Springs are newish Wolff replaced at the begining of the year.

From what I can see....it looks like as the trigger is moving forward the bar it drops down allowing the firing pin to snap forward.

Sure, I know I can put in a bunch of stock parts and this wll go away.... but I want to know which part(s) failed.

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This is caused when there is not enough engagement between the face of the striker lug and the back of the cruciform on the trigger bar. Throw in a factory connector and it should be fixed. Also compare the length of the striker lug on the IDP striker you're using vs a stock striker.

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I second nahanshew89 with the Ghost connector. Try changing that out to a factory bar first before changing everything else out.

The great thing about a Glock, is you can just bring everything out to the range with you and change parts out right there on the bench... I've done it myself a couple times. Swap parts out one at a time to find out and eliminate one thats causing an issue.

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Thanks for the info.... I haven't yet figured it out. I have ruled out the striker because it happened with both a stock striker and the IDP....although the IDP nose does look a bit deformed.

I'm not going to use the trigger bar, ejector block, or connector anymore.

Although I really like the Ghost Edge Connector I'm going to stick with your standard 3.5 variety.

I don't fully understand the connectors relationship to the trigger bar while resetting but it does look like as the connector and trigger bar snap off each other, it may cause the trigger bar to drop down allowing the firing pin nose to slip off. I don't know which part fails to make this happen, if this is what is happening, so I'm replacing all three parts.

I really hate this stuff, I just want to shoot.

Edited by nwhpfan
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Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.

If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.

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Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.

If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.

Use heat until cherry red, bend and let it cool.

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Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.

If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.

Use heat until cherry red, bend and let it cool.

That would Ruin the tempering on the part. You would lose all hardness

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

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Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.

If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.

Use heat until cherry red, bend and let it cool.

That would Ruin the tempering on the part. You would lose all hardness

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

It works well and I have never seen one fail.

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Put the cruciform end ("sear") in a strong steel vice, just the tip, then tap with a mallet to bend it upwards a fraction more. It takes like 5 minutes, don't overdo it.

If you do this make sure to use a pencil torch to heat up the area you want to bend before trying to make any adjustments. Glock trigger bars are quite brittle if they're not hot. This is about the only way you can "tune" a fire control group to your particular gun. Glocks are pretty loose on tolerances anyway so the exact same parts will act differently from gun to gun.

Use heat until cherry red, bend and let it cool.

That would Ruin the tempering on the part. You would lose all hardness

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

It works well and I have never seen one fail.

I've done this to all but one of my Glocks and have never had an issue. Also have a few where I have increased the angle between the top side of the cruciform and the leg that the trigger return spring hooks into in order to limit pre-travel. No problems with wear there either.

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Wait :goof: : AR -15 crowd PAY BIG money for a trigger like this :roflol:

"I Heard" it only takes a few minutes work and no aftermarket parts to make a Glock fire several times with 1 trigger pull. You will then have an illegal pistol.

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I bought a Zev Ultimate Fulcrum kit a few months ago and it doubled with every trigger pull. This was in an open steel gun I built and after a 170mm mag dump I had a guy in my shooting club jokingly ask to see my tax stamp haha. I quickly made the adjustment that JBP55 and I have described and brought the gun back to being a functional semi-auto pistol.

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I bought a Zev Ultimate Fulcrum kit a few months ago and it doubled with every trigger pull. This was in an open steel gun I built and after a 170mm mag dump I had a guy in my shooting club jokingly ask to see my tax stamp haha. I quickly made the adjustment that JBP55 and I have described and brought the gun back to being a functional semi-auto pistol.

I saw one of the early Zev triggers do the same thing and the LW Striker was quickly replaced. Zev replaced the striker with one that worked quite well.

Edited by JBP55
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  • 2 weeks later...

I had the problem where when I ressembled the slide again my "firing pin block" spring didnt lock in and fell down in the hole sideways. Bam mag dumps all day dangerous but a little fun :cheers:

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