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1050 PW Power Drive - your best $14 improvement ever!


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I am in process of heavily modifying the PW drive, but in the meantime here is the super-efficient el cheapo addition that produces tremendous improvement.

You have probably read many, many complaints that the drive, being powerful, will crash things, will jam, etc. Yes, there is a clutch, but it is not particularly well designed, and extremely hard to adjust to proper torque.

The $14 mod turns your sometimes unpredictable beast into a well-behaved pussycat.

Much has been said about the Mark 7 spotting the jams and stopping with no drama. Well, your PW can do the same.

The trick is to install the electronic over-current protection. Depending upon how neatly you want to do it, it can take just 10-20 minutes.

You need to buy this component:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290875384574?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Installing it is simple, and you can do it simply with spaghetti wiring, or get a junction box and mount it on top. The box plugs into the power line, and your drive - into it. The protection circuit sits in series with your drive.

Make TWO sense loops around the sense core, use just one wire. That will increase the adjustment range, making it easier.

Setting it is simple - first, set the Time dial to about 20% of full scale. Them the current dial to about the same, and start your press.

Is the machine is running, keep turning the current dial down, until you start seeing the LED blinking.

Turn the Time down a little - it allows the brief peaks to go through unchecked - you need that. But anything longer than the brief start up current needs to be limited.

Keep turning the dials down. At some point your protection will trip and disable the drive. At that point turn the current dial up just a hair and press the Reset button.

With the protection set correctly, you can pretty much get rid of the clutch by torquing the screws all the way down. The machine will run reliably, but it will also stop at the slightest hint of a jam.

To give you some idea - if the case in the first station is off center and does not enter the sizing die, the machine will stop without even damaging the case - making it kind of the same, as the famous Mark 7 demo, except... all for just $14.

OK, OK, plus $4.54 shipping... :)

While not damaging anything, the machine will now reliably run military brass, swaging their primer pockets - not a problem!

Edited by Foxbat
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I received some questions about connecting the protector, here are the pics of the quickly thrown together prototype.

The brown wires plug into the power line, and the PW drive plugs into the outlet box. The rest should be pretty clear. I loop one of the wires twice around the sensor to increase the sensitivity, but this is not mandatory. You can use either sensor.

Let me know if you need any further questions.

post-21305-0-77760400-1458691979_thumb.j

post-21305-0-43813000-1458691988_thumb.j

Edited by Foxbat
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They pop up on ebay regularly, sometimes there is more than one seller. Plus, there are other models that can be used, I just happen to have used this one, and I like it for its simplicity and price.

Wires? What wires? :) I am an electric engineer, and believe me, you don't want to see my work bench! :)

As I mentioned, this is work in progress, when it is all done, it will be whole lot neater.

Yes, the current goes up when the machine jams. You can play with the two controls to set it they way you want. I have the same protection on my Case Pro drive and it works like a charm there too.

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Guys, do not despair! There are other choices, including this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMWHA-EOCR-SS-OVERLOAD-RELAY-ECOR-SS-05-0-5-6A-A-AMP-ECOR-SS-05-N-440-/291194013123?hash=item43cc8405c3:g:2OUAAOSwq7JTyRcG

It is a bit more sophisticated with one more time dial, but I believe functionally it is the same. I have not used it, but I think it should work just fine.

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Ok bought that one. I'll refer back here when I try to wire it in. This one has 6 terminals - since I have no idea what is happening I'll probably have to play with it before I figure out the proper order or connections. It does seem to have a wire diagram on the side. It's only electricity - what could happen?

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Ok bought that one. I'll refer back here when I try to wire it in. This one has 6 terminals

No, it has five, just like the other one. Two on the left take in the incoming power, and the three on the right are just the relay contacts.

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No, in my experience it doesn't matter. On Internet you can find the instructions, I have it somewhere, but you can easily find it.

The one you bought has the second time dial, I remember reading about it, but don't remember the details now - again, the instructions are available. For instance, these...

http://old.eocr.com/new/new_eng/02_product/product_view.php?uid=38&code=1

You got yours for VERY good price, enjoy! I wanted to buy one just to try, but nothing in that price range at the moment. :)

Edited by Foxbat
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just as the heads up - I got two of those current limiters, and one came in defective. Unfortunately, as my luck would have it, it was the one I wired in the circuit. Bummer... had to rewire the whole thing again.

To avoid this type of an issue, here is how you test it on arrival:

1. Connect the primary to your 120V line. No other connections are needed.

2. Press the Test button - it should click and the red LED should come ON.

3. Press the Reset and it should go OFF.

You can check the delay time setting at that stage too.

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Good tip. I got a new safe and had to tear down my reloading area to install it. Almost done rebuilding then I will install the current limiter I purchased and report.

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The main one is using the variable speed 3 phase motor with VFD control. I found that with some bullets you need to run a bit slower, otherwise they do not stay put after the MBF drops them. Also, I am using slower speed for reverse - there are two independent speed controls. Here is the control panel.

There is also the provision for the out-of-primers sensor, which is incredibly simple - no additional parts are required.

You simply need to add a couple of wires to the internal micro switch, that is inside the Dillon primer sensor. One wire goes to the pin, that is currently unused, the other one to the common pin.

Wired this way, the sensor will break the circuit when out of primers.

This sensor is MANDATORY, otherwise you can't always hear the buzzer. With the sensor thus wired the machine stops and the buzzer goes off - it is unaffected by the new wiring.

A similar sensor can be added for the powder container, but I personally see very little reason for that.

Another important one would be the out-of-bullets sensor, but I don't yet have any good ideas on that one, just some preliminary stuff.

post-21305-0-19910700-1460555573_thumb.j

Edited by Foxbat
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You simply need to add a couple of wires to the internal micro switch, that is inside the Dillon primer sensor. One wire goes to the pin, that is currently unused, the other one to the common pin.

Wired this way, the sensor will break the circuit when out of primers.

Hmmm - I like this tip. Thanks.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 2 months later...
I did get the theee knob relay to work on my setup.  Got a YouTube video of it, I added a separate 10A relay to it because these current relays only have a 3A internal relay which will fail over time.
 


WTH is that frankenstain 1050?
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That is a Star Universal Reloader running a PW Autodrive. Before there was a 1050, this is the progressive press Mike Dillon based his 1050 design on. Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. I use this setup to reload .32 and .38 hollow base wadcutters. Show me another setup that fully automates those rounds.

 

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That is a Star Universal Reloader running a PW Autodrive. Before there was a 1050, this is the progressive press Mike Dillon based his 1050 design on. Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. I use this setup to reload .32 and .38 hollow base wadcutters. Show me another setup that fully automates those rounds.
 


I'd never say it is bad if I never tried it. I was just surprised to see that as I thought it was a modded 1050 and wanted to know what it was. That's all.
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1 hour ago, NicoR said:

 


I'd never say it is bad if I never tried it. I was just surprised to see that as I thought it was a modded 1050 and wanted to know what it was. That's all.

 

I posted this to show the current relay on a PW Autodrive, which a lot of 1050 people are using. I have a Mark 7 1050Pro that I use for everything else but for .32 and .38 wadcutters, this has no competition. Mr Bullet Feeder and the like can't process the hollow base wadcutters, this can because I use a no longer made bullet feeder made by MA System that uses a "Finger" style feeder. The great think about the Current limit relay is it gives the dumb PW Autodrive a cockroach size brain.

http://www.kvc.com.my/StorageAttachment/Kvcsb/datasheet/1424/samwha-EOCR-SS05.pdf

 

Edited by Mnort
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