Tuning the 1911 mainspring(hammer) to the recoil spring

[LowryWeaponsSystems]

When tuning the 1911 recoil spring when does the mainspring(hammer) fall into play, and where is a good place to start poundage wise? btw Im running a 38 super compensated platform so i know my spring weights are going to be a bit different from the 9mm/45 guys.

[Steve RA]

Just put a 17lb mainspring in and only play with the recoil spring weights. You probably will end up in the 9-10lb range.

[G-ManBart]

All of my 1911/2011s have 19lb mainsprings and there's no problem getting a trigger pull down to 2-2.25lbs. Open guns I always start out with a 9lb recoil spring, and usually stay there for Major. If you want to run Minor you'd probably have to drop to 7 or 8lb (some folks like 8lb springs for Major as well). For SS and Limited guns shooting .40 Major, 12-12.5lbs is a good starting point for the recoil spring. For .45 I bump that up to a 14lb spring assuming normal Major handloads in the 170-180PF range.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I would try a 17lb and a 19lb mainspring to see what you like. The difference in trigger pull is only about 3ozs or so. The Firing pin stop comes into play as well. A 9lb or 8lb recoil spring is where you will want to be. Choose the recoil spring that gives you 100% reliability. Thanks, Eric

[LowryWeaponsSystems]

Hello: I would try a 17lb and a 19lb mainspring to see what you like. The difference in trigger pull is only about 3ozs or so. The Firing pin stop comes into play as well. A 9lb or 8lb recoil spring is where you will want to be. Choose the recoil spring that gives you 100% reliability. Thanks, Eric

can you tell me more on your thoughts about the firing pin stop? thanks

[Postal Bob]

The angle of the bottom of the firing pin stop, can contribute to the resistance of the slide moving back. The lower on the hammer, the bottom edge of the firing pin stop makes contact, the more resistance there is to the movement of the slide. Along with the shape, rounded verses a sharp edge.

Edited March 6, 2016 by Postal Bob

[LowryWeaponsSystems]

The angle of the bottom of the firing pin stop, can contribute to the resistance of the slide moving back. The lower on the hammer, the bottom edge of the firing pin stop makes contact, the more resistance there is to the movement of the slide. Along with the shape, rounded verses a sharp edge.

if this is what Aircooled6racer is also talking about, then were all on track. I've been making my firing pin stops rounded and super slick and smooth for a few years now

Edited March 6, 2016 by LowryWeaponsSystems

[Dr Mitch]

But you may want a less-rounded corner

[Postal Bob]

I mistakenly did that on my 9mm Trojan. Now there is so little resistance, I had to go to an 11 lb recoil spring, and a 17lb mainspring, to avoid the slide slamming the frame, and getting double feeds. Normally you use an 9 or 10 lb recoil, and a 15 lb main.

[bigboy69]

But you may want a less-rounded corner

I totally agree with you. Just a little more than a broken edge polished. It hits up higher on the hammer. same principal of leverage.

[LowryWeaponsSystems]

I will have to try this, thanks guys

[Shadow]

But you may want a less-rounded corner

Or not.

[bigboy69]

I guess you can look at it 2 different ways.

The higher up on the hammer where the FPS hits, there is more leverage and it throws the hammer back faster or easier, because of leverage.

The other way is having a very rounded and polished FPS for a smoother transition.

Me, I shot both. I think how I shoot mine, less rounded, makes the gun feel like it has less recoil.

All I can say is try it both ways and feel the difference.