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22/45


wingnut

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Of course it is.

Cut a couple coils of the mainspring. Polish the hammer- sear interface. Polish trigger return plunger. That should get you down to 2.5 pounds pretty easily.

Don't take too much off the mainspring as it is part of slowing the bolt after firing.

Be careful not to lose the ball detent in the mainspring assembly. It is under serious pressure. The good news is the ball detent is cheap and readily available.

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  • 4 months later...

For me, I took out the magazine disconnect and added the hammer bushing, put in a Volquartsen sear, and added a TandemKross trigger. This took me just under 2lbs with a great pull. If you don't like the flat face trigger you can save $35+SH and get the trigger in the 2lb range for less than $40.

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  • 1 month later...
Where are all these parts found? On Midway? Also any good smiths that can do the work if we don't want to mess with it?



You can buy direct from tandemkross and volquartsen.

With the aid of YouTube even someone like me who is all thumbs can do it in about an hour.
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The best money you'll spend on a mk3 22/45 is a hammer bushing to remove the mag disconnect (there are heaps of brands, I like the volquartsen but others are good too) and the volquartsen sear. 

Bushing and sear are super easy to fit. Just changing those will give you mags that drop free and a trigger somewhere between 2-2.5lb. 

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Cool Thanks. I will check it out. Looks like it needs another trigger. Took it apart for cleaning and although I put it back together the way it showed. It doesn't feel like the hammer is falling. Also the slide likes to stick even when there is no mag. I will check it out some more. But would like a better trigger on this thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great old design with a lot of after market parts.  I have experience with Volquartsen and have a couple worked on by Clark Custom

The key with reassembling a Ruger 22 is to make sure your third hand is in the right position while standing on your head...  If you are not totally frustrated I would suggest another dissaembly/ reassembly or two to make sure everything is back in place.  (I have several and have to refer to a video or written instructions everytime I do it... I try to do total cleans on several on the same day to make it faster by the end)

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  • 4 years later...

I am really, really sorry to resurrect such an old thread. But... how in the world do you change the mainspring on a Mk III? I bought a new one from Ruger hoping to solve some ignition issues (already changed the firing pin) with Eley Force ammo, but I cannot figure out how to take the mainspring out of the housing.

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On 11/13/2020 at 10:12 AM, Bagellord said:

I am really, really sorry to resurrect such an old thread. But... how in the world do you change the mainspring on a Mk III? I bought a new one from Ruger hoping to solve some ignition issues (already changed the firing pin) with Eley Force ammo, but I cannot figure out how to take the mainspring out of the housing.

Check out these 2 videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWyevfNcPKI

https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=131271684&cat=3769278

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  • 1 year later...

i'm about to get my dad's mark IV 22/45 from my dad, the same gun he trained me on, so that I can get my son started. At some point, i'm going to want to put a dot on it and I came across this...Mark Series FastFire™ Mount (shopruger.com), Mark IV™, Mark III™ & 22/45™ Picatinny Rail (shopruger.com)Wondering if there has been any review on this and if theres a better mount I can go with. 

Edited by Kwontanamo
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2 hours ago, Kwontanamo said:

i'm about to get my dad's mark IV 22/45 from my dad, the same gun he trained me on, so that I can get my son started. At some point, i'm going to want to put a dot on it and I came across this...Mark Series FastFire™ Mount (shopruger.com), Mark IV™, Mark III™ & 22/45™ Picatinny Rail (shopruger.com)Wondering if there has been any review on this and if theres a better mount I can go with. 

Drive the rear site out and use the dovetail mount where the site was. Gets the dot about as low as it can go on the barrel. 

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EGW makes very good bases that replace the rear sight and are available to fit numerous red dot "footprints" but each model has a specific footprint.   

 

Alchin  (https://allchingunparts.com/) makes a very versatile mount that bolts to the receiver using the Weaver/Picatinny bolt spacing and accepts accepts several red dot models.  It allows keeping the rear sight. I have it on my MkIV. 

 

TandemKross sells their "Shadow Mount" that also accepts several red dot footprints and also allows keeping the rear sight.

Edited by SteelCityShooter
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On 12/16/2021 at 5:40 PM, Effectus Magis Per Minor said:

I do not know if they are any better, but there are more options!

https://www.egwguns.com/pistol-and-red-dot-mounts/?brand=761

 

I have one of their mounts but have not used it yet so can not comment on its longetivity. It looks well machined...

If I end up using it i'll let you know

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5 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:

EGW makes very good bases that replace the rear sight and are available to fit numerous red dot "footprints" but each model has a specific footprint.   

 

Alchin  (https://allchingunparts.com/) makes a very versatile mount that bolts to the receiver using the Weaver/Picatinny bolt spacing and accepts accepts several red dot models.  It allows keeping the rear sight. I have it on my MkIV. 

 

TandemKross sells their "Shadow Mount" that also accepts several red dot footprints and also allows keeping the rear sight.

i'll give this a try. Thank you!

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