CZ 75 SP01 ACCU Shadow Preventive Maintenance

[Just4FunLP]

Well.   The performance of the gun is very good, and I can't imagine shooting anything else, but it does require maintenance.  Granted, I torture a gun with a lot of rounds, so other people may not see the need for all this.  

The one thing that really surprizes me is how often the hing pin on the HAJO rear sight breaks.  When it breaks I notice the pin sticking out a bit, so I just push it back in between runs.  It's nothing that will keep me from finishing a stage.   I also had a failure to extract today, so perhaps I won't be able to get 6 months out of an extractor.  I may treat it like the slide stop and have one I run in matches for a year and use the older ones for practice until they fail.  This will probably save me some money.  I may also do this with the firing pin. 

I was at a match a while back and another guy with a shadow had his firing pin stop plate fall out along with the firing pin and spring.  It was the last stage of the match and he was having a good day before this happened.  Nobody could figure out what caused this.  Back home during my next practice session the exact same thing happened to me.   Once I found the firing pin spring I compared it to a new one and it was noticeably shorter.  I guess the moral of the story is that these parts, especially the lighter springs, wear out and must be replaced.  When it has fresh parts it eats ammo.  

I think I'll buy me another ACCU in a year, and save it for matches.  It's a chunk of change.  

[Bunsen]

Thanks for putting this together. I shoot a 75 TS at about 12k per year and have a similar list with less replacement. Will need to compare in a little more depth and see if I need to up anything. I have pretty much been changing springs every year but it looks like I need to be doing it a little more frequently.

 

Thanks again!

[IHAVEGAS]

Revised my routine, for what it is worth. Requires a match gun and a back up gun.

 

1. Use back up for all dry fire and all live fire practice. Live fire practice is roughly 2x live fire at matches for me.

2. Run all parts to failure in back up gun. 

3. At failure, install new part in match gun and part from match gun in back up gun. 

[B_RAD]

I've never had to replace one but did buy a back up slide stop. They don't need to be fittted do they?  I know you can file them done to load longer bullets but other than than that they just pop in and go, right?

[IHAVEGAS]

1 hour ago, B_RAD said:

I've never had to replace one but did buy a back up slide stop. They don't need to be fittted do they?  I know you can file them done to load longer bullets but other than than that they just pop in and go, right?

 

Right.

[cheby]

3 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Revised my routine, for what it is worth. Requires a match gun and a back up gun.

 

1. Use back up for all dry fire and all live fire practice. Live fire practice is roughly 2x live fire at matches for me.

2. Run all parts to failure in back up gun. 

3. At failure, install new part in match gun and part from match gun in back up gun. 

I do the same 

[Just4FunLP]

FWIW, I updated my PM sheet for 2017.  Added an interval called RTF (run to failure) and applied it to the extractor and slide stop because they're super easy to change.  I scribe a "P" (for practice) on my older parts and install my new spare for matches.  I rotate in a new part when the practice part fails, or annually.  Though they haven't lasted a year so far...   I think this approach may save me a few bucks.  

 

I have had better luck with my last HAJO rear sight hing pin, so I increased it's interval from 3 to 6 months.  Hope it doesn't bite me in the butt during a match.  When it breaks part of it slides out a bit during the stage, but I can simply push it back in between runs.  Maybe I've just had bad luck with this in the past, or perhaps they can be fractured during installation causing them to fail prematurely...???  I'll start using an arbor press at work rather than the hammer at home.  DUHH!!!

 

I know it's best to have a gun for practice and a gun for matches, but that's just not an option for me right now.  I'm scheduled to replace this Accu in December.  I've been running it since about November of 2015 and I think the wear is effecting accuracy a little, but maybe it's just me..   I don't spend a lot of time shooting from a rest (wish I could borrow a ransom rest).  Also, I know I shoot an insane amount through this gun, but it's what I love.  500 rounds on the weekend, plus matches, plus 3 hours of dry-fire a week.  But that's a subject for another thread....   I wanted to change the spreadsheet so it automatically updated the intervals based on average rounds per month, but... I'd rather be at the range shooting.

 

2017 PM Sheet.pdf

Edited March 18, 2017 by Just4FunLP

[IHAVEGAS]

Very good info. Thank you

[PaladinPrecision]

My background is in Turbine Engines for F-18's. I am always meticulous about maintenance, however the idea that you can't use a part till it fails is somewhat misguided IMO, at least in things where component failure doesn't risk life or injury like when you have a light strike in practice. I might get flamed for this but hear me out.

It depends on the part and the failure mode, if something is going to fail in a handgun and damage other parts, replace it often and BEFORE failure. If it's something that is easy to swap out at the range and you can keep spares in your range bag, I am more tempted to let things run their lifespan and drop a new one in if it fails. Music wire springs, stainless and other lower quality springs I replace more often. Where nice chrome silicon springs can be used almost indefinitely with the right ones. With a lot of things it really depends on the matches I am going to. I routinely rebuild my guns before a big match, but not RIGHT before a big match. From experience new parts can fail and high time parts fail, so I like to use parts after they have been proven. Ex mag springs aren't always created equal and might have a tendency to make the follower tilt and jam. I also return some parts to service for "practice" and just use them as scary spares. Like high time extractors, slide stops, firing pins all can be used in practice and dry fire with no harm. That way I am not just replacing parts for the sake of replacing them, yet I still have good parts for when it matters, I would rather spend the 80 bucks it would cost to prematurely replace the extractor / slide stop and buy 4 lbs of WSF. I am also a Mechanic by trade, so when most things break it doesn't take me long to break it down and fix it. 

That being said, I replace springs most often for the entire gun, Mag springs, trigger reset springs the whole deal. Things like extractors cost adds up enough to where I don't HAVE to replace extractors and such. I like doing PM, but I personally just buy all the spares and replace them before big matches and engrave a number or letter into things like the slide stops and have a log of round count/ install date in my shooting book. (I use a sniper rifle data book for my pistols too.)

So I would say TRS every 5-10k depending on brand, the CZC you can run longer.Firing pin can be run longer with Federal primers vs wolf, same with FP spring and weight. I can't stand light strikes so I just use Winchester or softer primers and replace the hammer spring at 15-20k intervals. Especially if you have two of the same gun, just keep spares of the parts you would need and if you have a symptom like light strikes, replace hammer spring and firing pin... Extraction, replace spring and extractor... Probably easier to routinely clean the extractor and check tension than it is to replace things just because. Also if springs loose too much length replace them, so have a benchmark for new length and then you can probably figure out after several replacements what the mean length needed for proper function is. The metal parts are lower quality parts than you would think, so things from casting defects to stress risers will vary the length of service for the metal parts. I should be over 130k rounds through cz by the end of the year, I can tell you more then cause I just got to the point where I started even tracking things in excel for my shooting stuff, I don't have enough hard data to say for sure how long things last. With alot of dry fire I broke a TRS in under 2000 rounds from my shadow when it was new, however since then I polish them and vibratory stress relieve them. I am working on a process to address some of the CZ part short comings. Andreas has already benefited from one of the processes I am working on.

For me- 

Fiber weekly or new one on the thursday before a match starting a match with 0 live fire rounds, can go 2 matches if there was no live fire in between.

 

TRS- When they break, 10k, or BFM(before Match) whichever comes first.
Clean extractor- Weekly during cleaning, take pick and make sure there is no carbon buildup or brass.

Clean trigger group with lighter fluid- weekly/ BFM (Lighter fluid doesn't leave residue)
Hammer spring- 15k, more than 2 light strikes in practice, before big match with round count over 5k.
Replaced HAJO rear sight with fixed, cause it's stupid and breaks
Extractor spring 20k rounds, or BFM over 15k or conditionally if I have more than 2-3 failures to extract in 200 round intervals.

Extractor retaining pin 20k or when removed (always use a new pin when reinstalling)

RP FP Spring- 20k rounds/ annually, if this one gets soft it doesn't hurt performance. 

Slide stop- BFM if over 3k, or 10k. I don't mind letting one break in practice. I just throw another in.
Mag springs if have feeding issues or 15k/ BFM if over 10k

Biggest things, Fiber, TRS(pisses me off routinely), and the slide stop
 

 

 

Edited March 19, 2017 by PaladinPrecision

[Just4FunLP]

PaladPrecision.  

 

I think we're on the same page. I'm a maintenance manager at an ISO 9000 manufacturing plant, so I get it.  "Run to failure" is normally a term I use to warn a production manager when he or she can't seem to find time to shut down a machine for maintenance.  But in this case I've found (so far) that a broken slide stop doesn't cause damage or a safety issue during practice, and as you've noted, the extractor starts to have hiccups slowly.  Both are easy to change, so I have a (tested) new parts I use for matches, and I'll eventually rotate them into practice parts when the current practice part has a problem.  This way I think I save a few bucks without risking a failure big a match. 

 

 The thing about maintenance in a manufacturing plant is that the place is full of all kinds of equipment, and each machine is usually state of the art for its task.  It doesn't matter if I was a PHd engineer I'm not going to be able to calculate the failure of every machine.  There's just too many different technologies.  And even if I could, it's usually not worth the effort.  The best thing is to start some kind of PM program and make changes as you go.  Tighten up the interval when things go wrong, and stretch it to save money whenever it's safe to do so.  Fortunately I was able to get 90% of the info from the guys on this forum.  

 

My hope is that this spreadsheet will help other CZ guys.  After shooting the crap out of my XDm I found this tuned Accu to need more maintenance, but it's definitely worth it.  The trick is having a plan that's easy to follow, doing the maintenance on schedule, all without going broke.  ?

Edited March 19, 2017 by Just4FunLP

[PaladinPrecision]

It's a great spreadsheet and more knowledge is a great thing. My new question is if I should get another accushadow or a shadow 2. Matt loves it, Angus doesn't lol.

[IHAVEGAS]

56 minutes ago, PaladinPrecision said:

It's a great spreadsheet and more knowledge is a great thing. My new question is if I should get another accushadow or a shadow 2. Matt loves it, Angus doesn't lol.

 

If in doubt I would pocket the $400 price difference  . 

[PaladinPrecision]

3 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

If in doubt I would pocket the $400 price difference  . 

Not sure brother. I love that the accu shadow is one of the most accurate guns around. Means if I miss it was 100% me. The thing I wish the shadow had was the front strap and back strap checkering

 

[GeneBray]

@PaladinPrecision.  It is not what Angus or Matt likes or dislikes.  It is all about you!!  ;-)  What do you like?  What fits your hand better?  What points better?  Which is easier to control on transitions?  Which requires less investment to turn into a competition pistol (i.,e., spare parts, mx parts, magazines, etc.)?  

Finally, when in doubt buy both!!  LOL!!!!

[Just4FunLP]

On 3/23/2017 at 11:40 AM, PaladinPrecision said:

It's a great spreadsheet and more knowledge is a great thing. My new question is if I should get another accushadow or a shadow 2. Matt loves it, Angus doesn't lol.

Yea.  I've got the same question.  I plan to replace the Accu in December and would like to fix up the old one and use it for heavy practice and as a backup for the new one.  The idea is to have two guns setup exactly the same.  Or if the Shadow 2 is a major improvement I should just go with one of those.  

[PaladinPrecision]

50 minutes ago, Just4FunLP said:

Yea.  I've got the same question.  I plan to replace the Accu in December and would like to fix up the old one and use it for heavy practice and as a backup for the new one.  The idea is to have two guns setup exactly the same.  Or if the Shadow 2 is a major improvement I should just go with one of those.  

I have come to a a conclusion about what to do. Since my CZC accushadow isn't everything I wanted... and over this week I have compared the two. I think moving forward I am going to run the shadow 2, worst case I can get the accu bushing installed on the shadow 2. The grip is way more positive on the 2. My accu shadow 1 the hammer and sear engagement isn't the best, the angles need work as in SA mode it cocks the hammer a little before it falls. Which tells me the sear and hammer engagement angles are wrong. on my not cheap trigger job. lol. 

[SlvrDragon50]

Geez. You're paying $1.50 per inch of fiber?? You're paying way too much. You can get a yard of fiber for like 5 dollars.

[Just4FunLP]

12 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

Geez. You're paying $1.50 per inch of fiber?? You're paying way too much. You can get a yard of fiber for like 5 dollars.

Yea. That's pretty bad.  Where's a good place to get it?

[SlvrDragon50]

Just now, Just4FunLP said:

Yea. That's pretty bad.  Where's a good place to get it?

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Archery.htm

[Just4FunLP]

D'OH!!!  What a dope!  Thanks for setting me straight.  That'll save me a few bucks.  When I read your post I looked up red fiber on google and it shows a photo of one of those fiber optic light things you set next to your lava lamp.  Must have 60 feet of the stuff.  It would probably cost $500 at $1.50/inch.  

 

Got any other suggestions?  

[Just4FunLP]

On 3/25/2017 at 11:21 PM, SlvrDragon50 said:

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Archery.htm

 

I Just placed my order for two yards of red fiber.   The site has changed a little, so this is the link to the 1mm red fiber. 

 

http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fiber-Optic-Lighting/Fluorescent-Fiber/1mm_or_039_Fluorescent_Fiber_Red_3ft_Gun_and_Archery_Sight

 

Thanks for the tip SlvrDragon50.  

[IHAVEGAS]

5 hours ago, Just4FunLP said:

 

I Just placed my order for two yards of red fiber.   The site has changed a little, so this is the link to the 1mm red fiber. 

 

http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fiber-Optic-Lighting/Fluorescent-Fiber/1mm_or_039_Fluorescent_Fiber_Red_3ft_Gun_and_Archery_Sight

 

Thanks for the tip SlvrDragon50.  

 

When I bought yellow 1.5 a couple weeks back it was sort of a hodge podge finding it on the website also. Kind of just had to look through all offerings. Good deal and they shipped fast though. 

[Just4FunLP]

Yea, I couldn't find red.   I emailed them and this was their reply.  

 

You might be on our old web site. Here is our new web page along with the link to the Red in 1mm. 

Thanks

Dawn

FOP

 

http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/

 

The red 1MM is the last item on this page. 

http://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fiber-Optic-Lighting/Fluorescent-Fiber?page=2

 

[himurax13]

On ‎3‎/‎17‎/‎2017 at 10:16 AM, B_RAD said:

I've never had to replace one but did buy a back up slide stop. They don't need to be fittted do they?  I know you can file them done to load longer bullets but other than than that they just pop in and go, right?

 

It depends if it clears the sear cage. I have installed some where I had to remove a bunch of material to match the center rail and to clear the sear cage.

[himurax13]

On ‎3‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 7:47 AM, SlvrDragon50 said:

Geez. You're paying $1.50 per inch of fiber?? You're paying way too much. You can get a yard of fiber for like 5 dollars.

Where?