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Brass sorting/inpsecting process, head stamps, etc


StraightSh00ter

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I just started sorting my 9mm brass getting ready for my first batch of reloaded ammo. I was shown a method of sorting by head stamp and think the benefits are really valuable (adding consistency to the feel of the press, for example). In theory it sounds great, but I found it took me a really long time (hours) to sort and inspect about 1000 rounds.

I'm wondering if part of it is my process:

*I sort out 9mm rounds prior to cleaning. Using the right 50rd tray as a scoop, my sorting process takes only a few seconds per 50rds.

*After cleaning, I grab a handful of brass in my left hand, and with the right I grab a case, check the open end, check the sides, and then check the bottom and head stamp and drop in the appropriate bin.

I find that the time it takes to focus on the head stamp and process that info is what takes the most amount of time. It's a couple of seconds per round which adds up over time. I imagine it will get a little faster with experience and with optimizing my work space, but having a decent amount of production/assembly experience I don't foresee much benefit over the setup I used initially.

So I'm curious: who sorts by head stamp and how much volume they load, and what are some other processes you all are using to sort and inspect brass?

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If I'm working on a new load, I'll try to load all of the rounds with the same brand of cases to minimize variation. I seem to get a more consistent OAL with brass of the same brand. Once I find the load combination that I like, and run through around 50 of them, I switch back to mixed brass.

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I shoot 9 major so I sort by headstamps. IMT, Ammoload, anything with an internal step, and anything Russian goes into the scrap bucket. I also separate Win, Federal, Remington, Speer into their own bucket and use these for practice when I can recover the brass and load them multiple times. The rest go into the "lost brass" pile. I use them at matches and never worry about picking them up.

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I sort my brass after its been cleaned with a wet tumbler and sort in several piles using crown royal bags or plastic bins...

Headstamps for 9 Major

Headstamps for 9 minor

Crimped primers

And junk brass

I usually sit in front of the TV for an hour or so and sort as much as I can stand to...

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I spend some time inspecting 9mm brass. I found by using a box and a couple of plastic factory trays I can inspect brass easily

Take a box place a tray in the bottom then pour cleaned 9mm brass into the tray most will land mouth up. Here I inspect for chigger bites,

splits ot trach in the brass. Take the second tray and place it over the first then flip like a primer flip tray.

Here I discard any with a swagged primer, military cases have a smaller case volume so they are discarded along with any others

I don't want. the others are placed in a rbbber made dish pan holds around 2,000 pieces. Once inspected they are lubed then loaded.

The tray also work well on picking out .380's or supers that found there way in the tumbler. Also works well getting .357 out of 38 Special.

Small primed 45 out of large etc.

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sorting...

more than any other reason, I do it out of curiosity.

what did I get in my box of once fired 9mm brass....

I am pretty sure I must sort to get

the crimped brass, it takes extra steps

and to get the 9x18 and 380 and other odd cases.

you never know when you will find a starline or norma case!

I like to sort out the rest because one headstamp at a time while you reload

has a consistent feel and that helps when you have a small problem.

you can adjust for it.

miranda

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I sort using a 40 cal ammo box for 9mm. Fill about 90 by scooping and shaking. Flip onto a clip board remove the head stamps I don't like. I shoot 147s fairly short and some cases (CBC the worse) won't gauge for my load.

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After cleaning, I take a couple of mtm ammo boxes and dump the brass into the boxes case mouth up. They fall into place pretty easily with some shaking. After filling up 4-5 boxes, I have one empty box that i use to flip the cases so I can check the headstamps. With the cases up I can check for torn case mouths and the ledged brass. With the cases headstamp up I can check the spent primers and headstamps. On a good day, I can prolly process around 1000 cases in around 30-45 minutes. Also works great for catching 380 and 38 super cases. :)

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Since I'm not presently shooting any competition - other than just with friends for group size or some such - I just use one brand of brass for each caliber. I use all small primer so I can just use one primer for all reloading I presently do. Use small rifle primers for 9mm, .45 ACP and .223/5.56.

This works great for someone who isn't shooting a large amount and who can get 98% or so of their own brass back.

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i cull cbc and aguilla

other wise not really sort by head stamp

recently set up dillon with same lee dies. and didnt cul still got 100% success?

i dont think it makes much difference when looking at A-zone level of accuracy

unless your shooting bullseye.

i dont compete seriously yet.... but if i did i'd case gauge every round. right now i will chamber check every 5th or so

im up in the air about FCD die.... i use one on my .45ACP not on 9mm. but that factors into my thinking with reloading process.

thing is reloading is fun... but i'd rather be shooting or doing other life things than sorting brass

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Buy large lots of known quantity once fired brass, clean and load.

Where do you find "known quality" once fired brass? Most used brass I see for sale doesn't specify quality, headstamp, or source of brass and I don't know that I'd trust that it's all really once fired.

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Best place for that would be to get a tie-in to a police range, or to whomever is currently getting the brass.

Not sure where else you might find it other than a military base - there is an outfit that handles that sort of thing but you are then limited to military calibers.

Edited by Steve RA
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I've posted this a number of times, but this is my sort list. Three bins: for good brass bad brass and tight primers

Bad brass:

aguila - brass alloy forms ring near head after repeated reloading. Causes case head separation.

A Merc - Bad quality metal

Ammoload - interior ledge. Case head separation

IMT - Interior ledge case head separation.

L Y (Norinco China) - Primer pockets too lose

Para (Norinco China) - loose primer pockets

Triangle(Norinco China) - case head failures

Thick cases:

CBC (Brazil) - Hard to resize. Thick case walls

Tight or crimped primer:

FC NT

HRTRS

NATO

S.B.

WCC

Win NT

Good brass:

Armscor

Blazer

FC

GFL (Fiocci)

HPR

*I* (Independence - Speer)

PMC

RP

RWS

Speer

WIN

Others as well

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