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Target Staple Length


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For match purposes, I'm with Kevin.......

For practice I've used a 1/4 or 3/8, IIRC......

If you're setting up multi target arrays with no shoots covering targets a bag stapler comes in handy for joining the two targets together before stapling them to sticks, and allows you to set up perfect replacement targets.....

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1/2 inch is the minimum. up to 5/8 is probably OK, longer will have the issue of staples not going in fully. anything under 1/2" you are asking for trouble, you definitely will have an issue if you are trying to stale a second target up over the first or if you have an array with overlapping targets.

Moving targets remember to start with two targets, cut the head off the base target to start, also think about putting a brace on the sticks at the targets will not hold the sticks straight when the mover reverses direction at the end of its travel. and use staples here like you have stock in Arrow! We use 4 on stationary targets on calm days, 6 on windy days, on a mover you want to use at least 5 per side of the target and definitely 1/2" long staples.

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Whatever length that ensures that if you accidentally miss the stick and get your finger on the backside of the target, the staples point will hit bone.

Sounds like the voice of experience. Kinda like using a sledge hammer to un-freeze a part. Just go ahead and hit your finger and get it over with...

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One other thing that really helps. We paint one end of all of our target sticks. That end goes in the stand, 'NEVER STAPLE THE PAINTED END OF THE STICK' Sounds corny but once you have tried to unwedge a stick festooned with half a box of staples out of a target stand, you understand. Oh, and on occasion it really doesn't hurt to pull out some of the mass of staples from the sticks. They start to look like a Mongolian war club!

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One other thing that really helps. We paint one end of all of our target sticks. That end goes in the stand, 'NEVER STAPLE THE PAINTED END OF THE STICK' Sounds corny but once you have tried to unwedge a stick festooned with half a box of staples out of a target stand, you understand. Oh, and on occasion it really doesn't hurt to pull out some of the mass of staples from the sticks. They start to look like a Mongolian war club!

Additionally, when your club goes to buy or build target stands, make sure there is a drain hole in the pocket which holds the stick. Wood likes to swell when it gets wet. Trying to pull stuck sticks out of target stands is an exercise in frustration.

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I use a J21 for practice with 3/8".

This tool is your friend. I have them in my range buckets. In a few seconds you can restore a stick to being void of all staples.

Z_oOwwncpIx_.JPG

Been looking for the right tool as well. I thought of just hammering them in with a BFH before storing them away.

I also just bought a bunch of the lattice sticks at Lowes. If these work out it will cut storage space to about 25% of what is used now

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I use a J21 for practice with 3/8".

This tool is your friend. I have them in my range buckets. In a few seconds you can restore a stick to being void of all staples.

attachicon.gifZ_oOwwncpIx_.JPG

One quick suggestion there -- don't pull those in the vicinity of where tires will roll. Staples have caused a few slow leaks for me -- in SUV tires......

And resulted in a few flat golf cart tires on our range....

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  • 2 months later...

I use a J21 for practice with 3/8".

This tool is your friend. I have them in my range buckets. In a few seconds you can restore a stick to being void of all staples.

attachicon.gifZ_oOwwncpIx_.JPG

I picked up a pair at Harbor Freight. They work great. This will really speed up changing out targets between squads! Thanks!

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One other thing that really helps. We paint one end of all of our target sticks. That end goes in the stand, 'NEVER STAPLE THE PAINTED END OF THE STICK' Sounds corny but once you have tried to unwedge a stick festooned with half a box of staples out of a target stand, you understand. Oh, and on occasion it really doesn't hurt to pull out some of the mass of staples from the sticks. They start to look like a Mongolian war club!

Additionally, when your club goes to buy or build target stands, make sure there is a drain hole in the pocket which holds the stick. Wood likes to swell when it gets wet. Trying to pull stuck sticks out of target stands is an exercise in frustration.

Our stand design has the entire bottom of the pocket open. Cost is minimal, 6 feet of 1 or 1-1/4" angle and two pieces of 1 x 2 rectangular tube 4" long, 3/32 or 1/8" wall and two washers. takes about 3 -4 minutes to weld up. We hold the tubes in 1/8" from the outer edge so that they can stack easily. I'll try to post a photo in the next few days.

Edited by Jim Norman
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This what we use for target stands. The tubes are shimmed in 1/8" on each end, this allows us to stack the stands on the stage trailers.

You need 4 pcs of 1x1 x1/8" angle, 2 pcs 1x2 tube, we use 12 gauge, any tube will dent when hit so no real reason to go heavier and if you go too heavy the target sticks may not fit. We use 1 x 2 furring, usually Home Depot. last item is the 1/2" washer.We have played with this a bit and later models have two to keep the stand from twisting.

post-2726-0-54195700-1450060108_thumb.jp

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  • 4 weeks later...

This what we use for target stands. The tubes are shimmed in 1/8" on each end, this allows us to stack the stands on the stage trailers.

You need 4 pcs of 1x1 x1/8" angle, 2 pcs 1x2 tube, we use 12 gauge, any tube will dent when hit so no real reason to go heavier and if you go too heavy the target sticks may not fit. We use 1 x 2 furring, usually Home Depot. last item is the 1/2" washer.We have played with this a bit and later models have two to keep the stand from twisting.

attachicon.gifTarget Stand.jpg

Jim, how about posting a pic of the stacking when you can get around to it.

Thanks!

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