Broken Trigger Pin/bolt

[ebg3]

Just had my second Flat Trigger pin/bolt break on Limited gun. The nut broke off (both times) while shooting. I thought I may have over tightened the first one so I barely tightened the second nut/pin and used blue loctite. Both broke after around 8000 rds. Went back to the factory trigger and roll pin, can't decide if I'll stay with the factory trigger or go back to the flat trigger. Anyone else have pins break?

[sinnsyk]

An option is to drill out the hole of the flat trigger to use the factory roll pin. If so, bore out the hole to about .102-.103 until you get enough play in the trigger to accommodate the roll pin.

The pins weakness is where the nut holds it. I've debated if I'm going to make the next trigger utilize the roll pin instead of a pin/nut. For one that will be a lot easier and no worries on pin breaking. I've experienced the roll pins coming out, but if that happens you replace the roll pin with a new one. And always use a starter punch (nipple punch) to protect the roll pin when dis/assemble.

That will be my suggestion, bore it out and use the roll pin instead. I'm about to set the machine up to run more batches of the flat triggers so maybe we'll just do away with the pin/nut and utilize the factory roll pin instead. Another issue I've seen on using the nut is that the trigger pin hole on some of the guns are off-center, making it difficult to install the nut / filing.

What's your thoughts on this ?

[EngineerEli]

An option is to drill out the hole of the flat trigger to use the factory roll pin. If so, bore out the hole to about .102-.103 until you get enough play in the trigger to accommodate the roll pin.

The pins weakness is where the nut holds it. I've debated if I'm going to make the next trigger utilize the roll pin instead of a pin/nut. For one that will be a lot easier and no worries on pin breaking. I've experienced the roll pins coming out, but if that happens you replace the roll pin with a new one. And always use a starter punch (nipple punch) to protect the roll pin when dis/assemble.

That will be my suggestion, bore it out and use the roll pin instead. I'm about to set the machine up to run more batches of the flat triggers so maybe we'll just do away with the pin/nut and utilize the factory roll pin instead. Another issue I've seen on using the nut is that the trigger pin hole on some of the guns are off-center, making it difficult to install the nut / filing.

What's your thoughts on this ?

Not sure if there is any patent, or the ethical ramifications of it, but I would love to see you offer a hardened floating trigger pin, like CGW does for CZ's. Its the diameter of the hole in the frame and stock trigger with enough clearance for it to slide in and out freely by hand, still snugly I hope. Then the center section, the part only between the too parts of the trigger that ride on the trigger, where the spring rests, it turned down to a slightly smaller diameter. the spring tension actually holds the trigger pin in place, then to remove it I think you just push the trigger return spring back in line with the pin with a small screwdriver and the pin slides right out.

I realize now you are probably aware of that pin, and my description wasn't neccissary.....Eh....

[ebg3]

The thing I like most about your flat trigger is how solid it feels with the threaded pin and being able to use the coil return spring. I wonder if a "floating" pin could work somehow? I wonder if "E" clips would hold up on each end of a pin, like JP did with AR triggers.

[EngineerEli]

Oh, totally forgot henning triggers don't use standard style trigger return springs... back to the drawing board.

Then again, I would still love to see one of these pinsade for tanfo owners using the stock or xtreme triggers! I really want one for my stock II. I may just try making one my self...

Edited September 12, 2015 by EngineerEli

[CHA-LEE]

The best way to setup the Henning Trigger Screw & Nut is as follows. Install the trigger screw as normal. Then put Red lock tight on the threads. Screw the nut on until it just touches the frame, then back out the screw 1/2 a turn. Then push the Nut side of the screw up against the frame. This should create a small gap between the head of the screw and the other side of the frame. Let the lock tight dry and shoot many thousands of rounds with it NEVER failing again.

The problem with the EAA/Tanfo frames is that they actually flex/bulge outwards while shooting. This is why the stock roll pin has a tendency to walk out one side or the other after a bunch of shooting. When you replace the roll pin with the Henning screw & nut then tighten it all the way down you now have the small screw battling against the flexing/bulging frame. Eventually the screw fails at the threads and the end of it breaks off.

If you setup the Henning screw & nut as I described above then the frame can still flex/bulge and the screw isn't restricting that movement, thus it does not fail.

Edited December 31, 2015 by CHA-LEE

[NickO]

After having my third one break on my .40 I went with the floating pin but since it doesn't have the factory return spring to retain it I used a drop of vibratite on both sides of the frame to keep the pin from walking. Not my favorite way of handling it but I didn't like the idea of drilling out the trigger to use the factory roll pin. I hate roll pins. I have about 2500rds on it now with no problem.

My Tanfo limited in 9mm hasn't had any problems with the bolt yet. But I have another pin in jy bag just in case.