RPatton Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 After zeroing at close range, like 37 yards, and assuming you are dead on anywhere down range is just that, an assumption......but it's better than nothing and it's a good place to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_Vmax Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Main question is how does the magnification affect POI? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 (edited) And to clarify, if your desired zero is 200, I would get as close to 50yds as possible for initial sight-in, 37 for 300... Eta, magnification should not affect your poi, center of scope is center regardless of mag. Edited October 20, 2015 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e5gator Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Was chatting with an ex-Marine at the range yesterday. He shared that he learned to zero the ACOG with a target at 37 yards using the 300m Aiming line (second down from the chevron). He said this would set point of impact at the top of the chevron for 100m, first line below it at 200m and so on with M193 55gr ammo. He shared that his unit used this method for setting/checking zero in the field. Can anyone verify if I got this right and share any experience using this method for the game? Sounds like it would save a lot of time. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk First off, there are no EX-Marines but yes he was correct. HOWEVER you must remeber that he was probably shooting an M4 with a 14" barrel and not free floating, and shooting some NATO grn tip ammo. All those variables into place when i used an ACOG for competition I had to memorize my real hold overs Vs. the BDC reticle. Best advice, use the tip of the chevron for a 50 yard/200 yard zero and waork your war from there to figure out the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Snyder Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 remember that the ACOGS were designed to shoot thin skinned bipeds, and not necessarily for precision marksmanship.... the bullet drop compensation is that the horizontal stadia lines (and legs of the chevron of the 31F) on the 4x32 ACOGS subtend 19" (width of a man's shoulders) at the indicated distances and are calibrated for the ammunition... ... my TA01 for 55 and TA31F for 62...it does help that one side of the stadia line is for practical purposes a 10" wind hold off... for the 2010 Ft Benning match I had to hold approx 15" of hold off for the 418m MGM flash targets with 55 grain bullets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dberm118 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 On 12/19/2015 at 6:29 AM, e5gator said: First off, there are no EX-Marines but yes he was correct. HOWEVER you must remeber that he was probably shooting an M4 with a 14" barrel and not free floating, and shooting some NATO grn tip ammo. All those variables into place when i used an ACOG for competition I had to memorize my real hold overs Vs. the BDC reticle. Best advice, use the tip of the chevron for a 50 yard/200 yard zero and waork your war from there to figure out the rest. I would ASSUME this ^^ once again I say ASSUME haha as I have never used an ACOG, however have been taught in the realm of .223 5.56 that a 50/200 yard zero is most efficient. you would then be 1 inch high at 100 and there of .5-1 inch low at 300 and your 50 yard and 200 yard would be dead on. Can anyone confirm this by the way?? it's always worked for me red dots and scopes. but now that I've dropped big money on my first quality glass I'd like to know at what distance most people sight in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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