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Any p226 models good for USPSA competition?


1eyedfatman

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Leaning more towards USPSA here as I like the Glock in IDPA. Other then X5/X6, any other p226 models make good USPSA pistols which can compete with CZ, 2011's, etc? I saw Sig had come up with a special p226 uspsa model, but those look like limited issue otherwise it would be interesting. Any other models setup well for USPSA and what would you have to do to them to make them competition ready (sights, trigger, springs, grips)?

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Any p226 will compete with the cz and others if you do your part.

Well sure, like any stock Glock 17 and 34 may do fine also if the shooter does his part. But, I like a little help and usually go with red fiber front sights, at least a 3.5 lbs SA trigger, grip enhancements (tape, VZ grips, what have you), heck, in my G34 I even put in the KKM barrel, Jager SS rod and spring. I'm sure I could pick up a stock CZ Tactical Sport and run it out of the box, but its pre-set for competition and I have the CZ custom Shadow from CZ custom which is ready to go. But, I doubt I could just go down to the local sporting goods store, pick up any p226 off the shelf and be happy running it USPSA. I could drop a lot more money on an X5/X6, but was wondering if there was something in between.

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I handled a couple p226's today. There were a lot of p226 models but I zero'd in on the Tactical Operations model. At the bottom is the link and description for it. I believe at this store it was close to $1,200 (maybe just under). I was into the 9mm model. It looked like the closest thing to competition ready. What I liked about it was:

- large beaver tail

- green fiber front sight

- bottom of grip opened into a mini-magwell (not ideal)

- Short Reset Trigger (SRT) included

- comes with 4 x 20 round magazines

- single action trigger seemed decent

What I didn't like about it:

- DA trigger was heavy

- No safety so can't come off it cocked-and-locked for SA only

Do you guys think sending off the frame to someone like Bill Springfield (triggerwork.net) to reduce the trigger pull by 30% would make it good for competition (USPSA limited minor)?

http://www.sigsauer.com/CatalogProductDetails/p226-tacops.aspx

The SIG SAUER® P226® Tactical Operations is a full-sized 9mm, .40S&W and .357SIG, featuring a stainless steel slide with rugged, wear-resistant Nitron® finish, front cocking serrations and SIGLITE® rear night sight, a TRUGLO® Tritium Fiber Optic front sight and features the Short Reset Trigger or SRT. SIG engineers designed the SRT to provide you the same great safety and smooth action of the SIG DA/SA with a comfortable reset that is 60% shorter for faster trigger return and surgical control during high speed shooting. The beavertail frame is black hard anodized light weight alloy with integral Picatinny rail and polymer Magwell grips. The pistol comes with four (4) 20 round super capacity magazines so it’s ready to see action. The SIG SAUER P226 tactical Operations pistol is backed by SIG SAUER with a Limited Lifetime Warranty.

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Check the USPSA web site to make sure that model is on the approved list for production if that is your intentions.The grip extensions that make a mag well and the longer magazines might not let that gun fit in the box for production. If you are thinking about limited or limited 10 division Shooting 40 S&W it would be ok. Dry fire the gun and shoot it for a while the DA trigger will loosen up then make your decision about sending it off to a gunsmith.

Jay

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I love the 226 but I find he trigger breaks to far back. If the trigger was moved forward about 3/8 of an inch it would be perfect for me.

I found I shoot the P320 better. And I didn't have to deal with the DA first shot.

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Realistically, all the non X-series 226 models are designed to be combat pistols, not competition pistols. In the DA/SA, Production legal models, none of them will have a really light SA pull, and many will require a good deal of dry/live fire to smooth out the DA pull (this was true of my X5 Allround, too). The standard reset is quite long, so I'd recommend a SRT-equipped model for competition. I personally don't like the "short" triggers (thinner front to back) that come on some models. The standard trigger fits me better. YMMV, but that's an easy swap either way. A lot of people prefer a 17# mainspring to the factory one, which I think is 21#. That will help the trigger pull, but you'll need to check reliability with your ammo. I got a case of Prvi Partizan for my Dad to plink with, and had to go up to a 21# spring to ignite it consistently. Wolff sells hammer spring packs that have different weights you can try. I can't really comment on any of the SAO models, as I've never owned any.

The fiber optic sights available from the factory on the TacOps and USPSA models are TruGlo TFOs, which have a mixed track record for reliability. Some people never have a problem with them, others (me included) have had the fiber optic rod pop out. But because they are tritium/FO, you can't replace the rod yourself like you can on a Dawson. The TFO front sight on factory models is also different than the one you can order directly from TruGlo, as it's made to match with a rear Siglite, not a rear TFO. On my regular P226, I went with a Dawson front and kept the contrast rear sight, blacking out the white stripe on the rear. On my X5, I installed a Dawson front and kept the adjustable rear.

You have a lot of grip options with Sigs aside from the standard factory plastic panels. E2 grips are textured one-piece grips and have a deeper profile for the web of your hand. E2 grips combined with a short trigger tends to help people with small hands get the proper finger placement on the trigger. I have read that some people felt the trigger pull degraded a bit when they switched to E2 grips from standard because the E2 mainspring seat and hammer strut have a different geometry. Not sure how much there is to that, because I've only read of a few people complaining about it. If you buy an E2 model, you can swap to regular grips without changing the seat and strut, but you have to buy those parts to switch from standard to E2. The mainsprings are the same.

If factory E2 or plastic grips are too small or slippery for you, you have options from Hogue: G-10, aluminum, rubber, and wood. The G-10 grips come in smooth, checkered, piranha, and chain link patterns. I have piranhas on my X5, but to me the chain link are the most aggressive. Aluminum grips come in smooth or checkered. I have checkered aluminum on my P226. The finish tends to be delicate on those, and you feel hot/cold temperatures more easily with them. The rubber grips come in both grip panels and wrap around finger groove grips (the latter are not Production legal, as they change the grip profile). Rubber grips are the thickest, save for maybe wood. I tried them for a little while, but they were too thick for me. I gave mine to my Dad, who has larger hands. Wood can be had smooth or checkered as well, but I don't have a lot of experience with those. I shot a P229 Equinox with Sig's hardwood grips, and found them too thick for me.

I would recommend that whatever model you might get, shoot and dry fire it for a while before you drop hundreds on a trigger job.

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Trigger work on a 226 is no big deal since the parts are exactly the same as on the x-5 all around

Bruce gray sells kits

Or just get a 17-18 main spring and polish all mating parts

I've run the base model 226, the all stainless uspsa model and the x-5 all preformed well

I stuck with the all stainless version mostly because it is the most user friendly overall for "ME"

Trigger length can be changed with the different triggers that are available (i.e short or standard)

Edited by jcc7x7
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I love the 226 but I find he trigger breaks to far back. If the trigger was moved forward about 3/8 of an inch it would be perfect for me.

This is exactly my experience. I absolutely love the gun apart from this - had my first malfunction this week after 4300 rounds - but I've never come to terms with the "deep break". When I shoot my 1911 I never have to think about trigger control, but when I shoot the 226 it's *all* I think about.

I have the short (skinny) trigger on an SRT action. Does anyone know from experience if swapping to the standard trigger would make a material difference in this regard?

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The relative position of your finger in the trigger guard when the shot breaks will move forward slightly if you replace the thin trigger with a standard trigger. I tried a thin trigger for a very short while, and found it to be too uncomfortable due to how much my finger was bent to fire the gun.

And while GGI does have DIY spring kits available, it's my understanding that they are still working on their drop-in parts kits. Might be a while for those.

Edited by JAFO
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On my regular P226, I went with a Dawson front and kept the contrast rear sight, blacking out the white stripe on the rear.

JAFO

What height Dawson's front would you go if you are replacing stock #8's on a 226?

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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On my regular P226, I went with a Dawson front and kept the contrast rear sight, blacking out the white stripe on the rear.

JAFO

What height Dawson's front would you go if you are replacing stock #8's on a 226?

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The sights I ordered for my gun and my Dad's were both 0.160" tall. Shot great for me with the factory rear.

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  • 1 month later...

Have a P226 stainless match elite. Put in the short reset, Dawson FO front with the Warren tactical rear and now use it for production. Personally worked on the DA first shot and in a 18 to 32 round stage you can't put that much thought into the one time you go DA.

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  • 3 weeks later...

To gain a comparable advantage to the other DA/SA guns, I'd recommend a steel framed SIG. The main advantage gained by CZ and Tangfolio is the overall weight of the gun, which aids in recoil management. Trigger weight and sight are based on preference and can be easily modified, but the weight and feel of the gun in your hand can not be changed. I shoot multiple makes of handgun in just about every division, but would not recommend transitioning between platforms. Shooting is seasonal for the most part and because of the Nationals calendar single stack is the first division, followed by production, and then limited/open. This of course is subject to change each year and depending on your interests, but USPSA and IDPA matches are continuous throughout the year. With this in mind you will likely find that if you shoot both with different platforms one will suffer. Will this help build your overall proficiency, yes; but it will also slow progression. Dry fire will help in transitioning between platforms, but I would recommend sticking with one for about 2-3 months before a major match. There are very few 6 division GMs out there, but Cory E. has it figured out. If you watch his YouTube channel you will see that he transitions from one platform to the other throughout the year, but focuses on one division prior to a major match.

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I concur with going with a Steel framed 226. I have been shooting a 226ST that had the Bruce Gray treatment and it is a fine set up - very competitive (at least in the right hands).

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The release of the Legion series next week is great news since it should make a bunch of quality GGI trigger parts Production legal. http://www.osagecountyguns.com/blog/news/sig-sauer/sig-sauer-p226-p229-legion-series/

Once they are added to the Production list, of course. ;)

Seriously, though, I've been waiting over a year for this. I've wanted to try the internal overtravel stop, but couldn't use it on my Allround because of the intermediate trigger profile.

Edited by JAFO
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