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Comp cleaning, media blasting.


bigcraig

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Anybody rig up a bench top media blaster to clean their comp on an Open gun?

If so, I've got questions for you.

1) What media material did you choose?

2) What pressure?

I have an blaster that hasn't been in use for years that I can re-purpose for this dedicated task. Just looking for some insight from others.

Thanks

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I have one of the new STI DVC open guns that has the TiN coating on the barrel and comp, I wonder how hard the coating is!

I was thinking turning the pressure way down to like 30psi, and using baking soda to start, then maybe work my way up from there.

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yeah I don't feel comfortable media blasting my barrel/comp. What I've found works quite well is spray the comp (inside and out) with the hornady one shoot gun cleaner/dry lube (looks like like the one shot case lube cans).

then any lead or carbon is easy to get off.

It has to be clean first of course. I use the arredondo comp cleaning tool (kind of like a screw driver). Check what your comp is made of too. media blasting anything alluminium requires some care!!

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Has anyone ever tried putting the comp in a sonic cleaner. I've got alot of build up on my comps and I'm too afraid to put it in the sonic cleaner in fear of damaging the outside finish. Has anyone experimented with an old comp ??

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yeah I don't feel comfortable media blasting my barrel/comp. What I've found works quite well is spray the comp (inside and out) with the hornady one shoot gun cleaner/dry lube (looks like like the one shot case lube cans).

then any lead or carbon is easy to get off.

It has to be clean first of course. I use the arredondo comp cleaning tool (kind of like a screw driver). Check what your comp is made of too. media blasting anything alluminium requires some care!!

Barrel and comp are a single unit on the DVC.

I would obviously protect the barrel crown in some manner, shouldn't be too hard.

I am actually more worried about damaging the metal than I am about appearance of the comp. I may dig up some old drill bits that have the TiN coating on them just to test, but knocking the finish off the comp wouldn't hurt my feelings, if it only took a few minutes to completely clean the comp.

This will be a while, I have a ton of other nonsense going on right now.

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sauza45.....I assume you've tried it . Was the outside finish blue, nickel, chrome ? And did you use heat and for how long did you run the sonic cleaner for ??

Also does that remove leading or just carbon?

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Yes I have done it several times, it is a chromed steel comp. I don't use the heat I just use hot tap water. The cleaner runs about 3 min a cycle and it takes about 3 cycles. In between each cycle I just take

a q-tip and run it in the ports of the comp. I let it run as I clean the rest of the gun. This is with the Brazos T2 comp which is a barrel and comp in one.

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Not yet. going to the range Sunday morning. when I get home I'll take it all apart for cleaning and stick the barrel and comp in the sonic cleaner. Still a little leary. If the outside finish gets damaged that means I have to send the whole gun out to be refinished. ( I'm pretty anal about the way my guns look and shoot ) :mellow:

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Ok , couldn't wait , so I tried it . And it does work and did not hurt the outside finish on the blue or the chrome comps ! . But wait . I did like sauza45 said ...... 50/50 solution ... 3 minutes per cycle .... 3 times. My comps had big "mounds" of buildup in them , so I used a small flat bladed screwdriver in between cycles to loosen the crud up . By the third time I was scraping big chunks off . Its going to take several more times at least , and a lot more scraping to get them totally clean , but its well worth it. sauza45 is now the official comp guru in my book. Thanks for the great tip !! :cheers:

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Just a quick update. After the range yesterday , I sonic cleaned the comps again, and alot more crud came out , but not down to bare metal yet. A few more times should remove it all. A little steel or brass brush would really help it along if they made one small enough, but still a great solution to a bad problem

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Soak it for a couple days in a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Dissolves lead build up safely. Don't get the mixture on you because lead is poisonous. Rinse clean with water. Don't bead blast the surface as it will make it surface porous which will give the lead more surface to cling to and make subsequent cleanings more difficult.

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Soak it for a couple days in a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Dissolves lead build up safely. Don't get the mixture on you because lead is poisonous. Rinse clean with water. Don't bead blast the surface as it will make it surface porous which will give the lead more surface to cling to and make subsequent cleanings more difficult.

I'm not sure I'd describe this approach as a method to dissolve lead "safely". The problem with this approach is it leaves you with a nasty mix of vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and lead acetate which is extremely toxic. It's readily absorbed through the skin. Can it be safely handled? Yes. But you really should read up on it and know what you are doing.

Google "lead acetate MSDS" and start reading on how to safely handle it as well as how to dispose of the liquid waste at the proper HAZMAT facility.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A 50/50 solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide works great as well. If the fouling is very bad, you may have to replace the solution to get it all removed.

I just saw igolfat8's post. Sorry for the repeat!

Edited by Dale Rader
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Outers foulout. Teflon:plumbers tape the comp and fill solution all the way up into the comp.

Comes out like mud in hours not days.

where can you get that stuff and what kind of comp are you using it on?

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