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Shotgun primers


New4John

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Guys I think i owe you some explaination:

My querries in here may appear to you experienced guys like a Im lost in a wilderness looking for direction home. Should be, as Im very much zero in shotshell reloading. Im very much into handgun ammo reloading but as ive learned beforehand, its very far from shotshell reloading. But I believe the principles of safety are the same? Its why I asked in ressurecting this old thread if its safe to reduce the powder load vs specs. Actually as a newby my delving into such particular situation was never intentional but purely incedental. Im using n318 powder and the load data is 20grn for 1oz #6 leadshot. But the Lee reloader is measuring by volume and the load data that came with it dont have any for n318, so I weighed 20grns in a scale and poured it into the powder bushing I estimated to be its equivalent. Found the correct equivalent bushing vol and tested to throw the powder in the machine then weighed the powder to be sure its correct. Found it was not very precise compared to my dillon metallic reloader. To be on the safe side due to this lacking in precision, I thought of starting with the smaller bushing thats about 18-19 grns. Its when I came accross this thread in my search for relevant info. But after a while, my eagerness got better of me and without waiting for any response to my needed info here, I went ahead with the reduced load and test fired it in my sx3. And as usually said, the rest is history. And now begins my quest for more about this newfound challenge ? 

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4 hours ago, darkvibe said:

No that should be fine. Just that substituting primers can increase pressures. 

 

Coincidentally Im about to change primer brand bcoz Winch. W209 is a bit loose in the primer pockets. The only other option is Russo from Russia. Any precaution I should take?

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9 hours ago, darkvibe said:

Yeah, find a published load that uses the primer you want to use.

 

Thanks. Made a number of searches based on your post and found how complicated this shotshell reloading could be when venturing outside established reloading data. Also found nothing about Russo 209 primers. Maybe it carries different brands in other countties. But its not safe to assume. 

 

Also found things about cherrio spacers and other materials that are commonly used. I noted that these materials must be light weight in terms of density compared to lead shots. Others use plastic beads, styro, cardboard, plastic cut outs, etc. Searched for these in my reloading room and came across tumbler media granules that are sized a bit smaller than #6 shots and light. Has anybody used this as shot spacer?

 

eta. Pls note that Im using the correct wad for 1oz shot load but I reduced the powder charge fr. 20 to 18 grns. and as far as I can tell, its why the wad seats lower and so the crimps were dished. 

Edited by BoyGlock
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Okay I went ahead with the media spacers and russo primers. Found the russo to be the same size as winchesters, are both loose in the primer pockets that when loaded into the gun they fell off inside the mag tube in recoil. What I did was put a speck of instant glue in the pocket before the new primer is pushed in the reloader. It added a bit more time to the already slow process. Tested them and everything went ok including the media spacers, w/c gave a beautiful flat and even crimp. Also, With this quite anemic load it surprises me it fed 100% reliable in my sx3 coz Ive been reading in shotgun section here how game guns are finicky with target/light loads. And I know by feel of its recoil this is way below target loads. Guess Im just lucky with my SX3.

 

Agsin thanks for the inputs guys. 

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regarding win primers - Tom from Alliant replied to an email that Nobel Sports and Cheddites are reasonable substitutes are a little less hot than win. I used to shoot league trap and have literally shot thousands based on this advice. Another is the wads - certain wads are ballistic similar to each other and 3rd parties specifically make Win substitutes based on this even though they look completely different. Some manufacturer load manuals show this some don't.

 

The thing here is that if you are new to shotshell reloading - don't screw around to much - stick with subbing similar primers to start and then learn the loading process. For instance a super dangerous thing to do is sub a 1oz slug in a 1oz shot load because both compress at ignition differently. I know people do it but its not very scientific! The key here is that "following the book exactly" is a bit extreme even though its is the best advice for new reloaders. When I (and others) go off the reservation its not by a great deal and its usually done conservatively with research that includes touching base with the power supplier, etc, and then with a chrono in hand.

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Thanks. 

 

Speaking of chrono, I just did this afternoon and here are the results:

1. Armscor 1.1/8 oz birdshot no. 7. Ave vel. 1,183fps
2. Reload 1 oz birdshot no. 6, 18 grn n318. Ave. vel 1,044fps
3. Reload 7/8 oz birdshot no. 6, 19grn n318. Ave. vel 1,124 fps. 
Im leaning on 3. though it has higher vel. than 2. felt recoil is lighter than 1. and 2. And its still reliable in my SX3. Tested its kd power and at 25y and beyond I need to use Mod choke to reliably fell steel plates. Is this expected? Or maybe its more of a marksmanship problem at speed?
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