gen 3 vs gen 4 trigger question

[EC803]

I originally bought a gen 4,34 when I first got into competition at the end of last year. I have done the .25 cent trigger job and installed competition spring kit. Its my understanding the 34 comes with 3.4 connector so I didn't replace that. I've just recently bought a gen 3,35 for uspsa limited. I did the same trigger job installed competition spring kit but I also installed the zev race connector. Then gun was a police trade in and its my understand the LE models have standard connectors. I thought my 34 trigger was nice but now that I've gotten the 35 that trigger is amazing. Very smooth and much lighter than my 34. Is it possible to make my 34 trigger as good as the 35? Is this part of the difference block made in the gen 3 and gen 4 trigger bar. Also can I replace the entire trigger group in the gen 4 with a gen 3 I'm talking the entire thing ejector and all to essentially make it a gen 4 gloack with a gen 3 trigger. I really like the 35 trigger and would love to have the exact trigger on both guns I used the 34 in 3gun and 35 for uspsa. Thanks ahead of time for any help.

[earthshine402]

The trigger components (edit: minus the ejector housing - thanks for the input below guys), are swapable gen3 to gen4. However, There is a different ejector for 9mm vs .40. That being said, guys do run 9mm conversion barrels out of .40 caliber glocks without changing the ejectors.

I own a gen 3 34 and 35. The 35 trigger is amazing. Nice and crisp, light. I made it even more amazing when I put in the Vanek super trigger. My 34 is kind of mushy, but smooth, as it is all polished. I think there is a lot of variation from gun to gun, being that they are plastic frames with stamped (i think) metal parts. You could try swapping the trigger bar and connector.

At the end of the day, there is much variation in glock triggers, and there is only so much you can do to improve them. When you are running them at full speed in a match, you are probably not going to really tell the difference except maybe on tight long shots which you need to take your time on.

Edited June 9, 2014 by earthshine402

[EC803]

My idea was to purchase a gen 3 trigger complete trigger ejector and all and drop it into my gen 4 as long as it will fit. I am curious to know if anyone have tried this the reason being its my understanding that said it is easier to lighten the gen 3 trigger vs the gen 4. Does that make sense. Basically I want my gen 4 34 with a gen 3,trigger.

[Marshal82]

So 2 things different with Gen 3 vs Gen4 parts.

Gen 4 ejector hosing is shaped differently due to the reduced grip size, no big deal just swap the connector and that's all you will need to do. I believe because of the spacing the angle may be slightly different and that's why people feel the Gen4 is heavier.

Gen 4 Trigger bar has a small bump on the right side of the safety tab. This is to help keep the trigger bar from twisting in it's travel. I use this in my Gen 3 guns because I think it helps the trigger be more consistent.

Other than that, minor differences in the shape of the trigger bar/connector interface and striker engagement will completely change the feel from one gun to the next. Because Glocks don't have real tight tolerances, a well tuned trigger in one gun may behave differently in another gun.

Your 35 should have the 5.5lb connector giving you less creep and a sharper break, thought it may be slightly heavier. The 4.5 connector (as they call it now) will feel like it has more creep but a lighter break point. But you installed the ZEV race connector, so no difference.

I would recommend the ZEV connector in the 34 and the same springs. Use new springs, they can wear some and they are cheap enough where just use new ones. I use a 4.5lb striker spring, lighter safety pin spring, STOCK weight trigger spring. One thing I do is take the safety pin and round it off by using the drill and a stone then polish it.

Hope this helps, I've been down this road before.

[JBP55]

So 2 things different with Gen 3 vs Gen4 parts.

Gen 4 ejector hosing is shaped differently due to the reduced grip size, no big deal just swap the connector and that's all you will need to do. I believe because of the spacing the angle may be slightly different and that's why people feel the Gen4 is heavier.

Gen 4 Trigger bar has a small bump on the right side of the safety tab. This is to help keep the trigger bar from twisting in it's travel. I use this in my Gen 3 guns because I think it helps the trigger be more consistent.

Other than that, minor differences in the shape of the trigger bar/connector interface and striker engagement will completely change the feel from one gun to the next. Because Glocks don't have real tight tolerances, a well tuned trigger in one gun may behave differently in another gun.

Your 35 should have the 5.5lb connector giving you less creep and a sharper break, thought it may be slightly heavier. The 4.5 connector (as they call it now) will feel like it has more creep but a lighter break point. But you installed the ZEV race connector, so no difference.

I would recommend the ZEV connector in the 34 and the same springs. Use new springs, they can wear some and they are cheap enough where just use new ones. I use a 4.5lb striker spring, lighter safety pin spring, STOCK weight trigger spring. One thing I do is take the safety pin and round it off by using the drill and a stone then polish it.

Hope this helps, I've been down this road before.

Good advice in Marshal's post.

The Gen 4 trigger pull weight using the same components is approximately 8oz. heavier than a Gen 3 due to the angle change of the trigger housing in Gen 4 pistols.

Edited June 9, 2014 by JBP55

[pevadijk]

Because of the different Gen4 ejector housing , the connector is placed under a slightly different angle than a Gen3.

This makes it more diffecult to get the same 'feeling'. My Gen4 is decent wit a ZEV connecor and trigger spring, but the Gen3 is smoother and a touch lighter.

EDIT: JBP55 was a little faster with his post about the different angle

Edited June 9, 2014 by pevadijk

[EC803]

If I have to keep the same ejector housing in the gen 4 even if I install the gen 3 trigger bar I will still have the different angle which will still equal a slightly heavier pull correct? If so what I was trying to make happen won't work lol. Well I tried you know how these things are have a lot of time to think while working I can come up with some wild ideas sometimes lol. Thanks for your help both response were very helpful.

[Marshal82]

You are correct, but there are ways around this. I don't think it's enough of a difference to feel unless your holding them side by side. For one you can re-shape the end of the trigger bar, making it slightly less round will decrease the pull and shorten your reset. Again every Glock trigger I've worked on is different and there are a lot of factors there.

I also think the heavier pull in the gen 4 gun is also from the trigger bar, the bump keeps it centered and under more force but less creep over a gen 3 bar. I use Gen 4 trigger bars in my Gen 3 Glocks. I prefer a crisp trigger that is consistent and reliable over anything else. Make it smooth, keep it reliable and practice.

[EC803]

Do you have a link or pictures or any way to show me exactly what you mean by bending the trigger bar. I would be very happy with a little lighter trigger which would make it feel almost the exact same as my 35 trigger. I have a big match in two weeks so I'm a little nervous about doing anythig that I'm not completely confident I'm doing right. Thanks again for all your help.

[JBP55]

You are correct, but there are ways around this. I don't think it's enough of a difference to feel unless your holding them side by side. For one you can re-shape the end of the trigger bar, making it slightly less round will decrease the pull and shorten your reset. Again every Glock trigger I've worked on is different and there are a lot of factors there.

I also think the heavier pull in the gen 4 gun is also from the trigger bar, the bump keeps it centered and under more force but less creep over a gen 3 bar. I use Gen 4 trigger bars in my Gen 3 Glocks. I prefer a crisp trigger that is consistent and reliable over anything else. Make it smooth, keep it reliable and practice.

I again agree with Marshal.

EC803 You do not bend the trigger bar, you reshape the nose of the trigger bar by reducing the hump profile. Have another trigger bar available because you will ruin the trigger bar if too much material is removed. There is a thread on this with pictures if you look back a few pages.

[Marshal82]

Here is a good link on trigger magic. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52311&hl=trigger&page=6

This is not for the faint of heart! There is no step by step guide out there, because the people that have figured it out don't always share their tricks.

The Glock trigger is a system, messing with one thing without tuning each piece in the system can cause issues. I don't have pictures but basically the end round part of the trigger bar that rides in the connector, using a stone to flatten out the curve will smooth out the break and create a lighter trigger. You don't want to flatten it much just take some of the roundness out. If you go to far you can cause double fires and other issues because you decreased the sear engagement.

What big match are you goin to? I'll be at the Carolina Cup in 2 weeks.

I would not try these mods on a working gun, focus on practicing with what you have for the match. If you want to tinker order a spare trigger bar or 3 and start playing around at your own risk. Not trying to be a downer because I did this right before a match to and had to pull parts from my glock 19 to get my gun able to compete. I've been down this road and learned a lot from doing it.

[EC803]

Yea i completely agree with not messing with a working gun right before a match. I will mess it up right after though lol or order a few spare triggers. Ive considered that already they are inexpensive and there are many DIY experiments i would like to try with the glock trigger. Thinks a lot for the info. Btw its area 6 mutligun championship. Thanks again

[igolfat8]

One thing I do is take the safety pin and round it off by using the drill and a stone then polish it.

Can you post a picture of what it looks like before and after rounding? Are you removing the flat beveled edge around the button? What does this do to the trigger and feel?

[Marshal82]

Here is an image of my gun showing the rounded safety pin. This greatly helps smooth out the first "stage" of the trigger pull. I acheived this but chucking it in my drill, turning the drill and running a stone across the face to round it off slightly. You could do this with sandpaper or Lansky knife sharpening stones work well too. After getting the profile right, polish the entire thing.

This also shows the profile on the end of the trigger bar, you will notice it's not as round as stock.

Oh my slide is silver due to Nickel Boron, the guys over at WMDguns did the nickel boron for me. Great coating!

Edited June 10, 2014 by Marshal82

[Marshal82]

Here is an image I made about bending the spring tab to reduce pre-travel. Now I try not to go as far to have to trim the trigger safety, doing this technically isn't cool for SSP or Production. But this can help take out about 1/8" or so and allows the trigger to rest more vertical which is easier to get correct finger placement.

Do this as your own risk, in the forum link in my previous post - somewhere in that thread there is a picture of how to put it in the vise to hold. Be careful placing in vise as you don't want to bend the sear engagement at all.

Hope some of this helps for you tinkers.

[Dkrad1935]

I have also seen another hole drilled for the trigger spring to attach at a different angle - that seems to help.

[JBP55]

I have also seen another hole drilled for the trigger spring to attach at a different angle - that seems to help.

Vanek does that to his trigger bars.

[Marshal82]

I have images of a vanek classic kit and he doesn't do anything unusual to the trigger bar. I don't understand how changing where the trigger spring pulls will have much effect, but what do I know.... The interesting thing in the vanek classic kit was the metal spring cup with marine cuts, and how drastic the striker safety pin is rounded.

[JBP55]

Charlie Vanek drills a hole above the original hole for the trigger spring. The spring is inserted in the top hole for better leverage and the end of the spring rides in the original hole. It effects the trigger pull weight similar to using a 6# spring in the original hole with better reliability.

I currently own at least 4 Vanek triggers and I have installed several dozen with the extra hole for the trigger spring. I checked the trigger pull weight of at least 6 different "known triggers" using the same components and only changing the trigger bar.

The only trigger bar I found that had a lower pull weight than a Vanek is the Joe D. conversion which is not allowed in some classes. A well polished trigger bar with the nose reduced will normally have a lower pull weight than the average known aftermarket trigger bar.

[Jadeslade]

Yeah. Charlie Vanek is the Glock trigger genius. I have a few. Also put a few in and sold them. Spent a few hours on the phone with him. Charlie can make his lower, and used to, but doesn't anymore-there is just no benefit. Maybe just get a Vanek trigger for your Gen 4 and be done with it. You can play with the stock trigger in your spare time. The Super trigger is the one.