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Glock 34 Malfunctions


longbeard

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Hello all,

I have a Glock 34. From time to time during shooting sessions the gun jams. A round gets chambered, but will not fire. The slide is all the way forward in full battery, but it's stuck and will not easily pull back to eject the round. The initial thought is that the reload is out of spec. However, each piece is case gauged. I've also taken the offending brass and measured it, finding no issues. Further, once I eject the round I can always put it back in and it will fire just fine. I've owned the gun since last Fall. I put probably 1500 rounds through it without an issue. This just started happening and doesn't really correlate with any new parts I've put in the gun.

KKM barrel

Glockworx ejector, connector

Wolf springs

Jager captured guide rod.

Any thoughts?

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For sure you don't want to bother Glock with this one. You'll say reload and they'll say bye bye. That said, I moved excllusively to Atlanta Arms reloads in my Stock Glock and have had no issues other that a couple dud loads now and again. FYI I've shot A.A. now for about 2 years...near 10000 rounds.

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Primers are fully seated. Hard primer.. Sure, it could be a light strike, but that doesn't explain the slide being locked shut.

Reload specs below, it's happened on both loads. I have used the barrel from time to time to case gauge, but again... If it was a bad round why would it shoot just fine when i tried it again?

Could it be a feed issue? Or an extractor issue? Maybe a mag is funky (I haven't tracked what mags it happens with), or maybe the extractor is somehow interfering with the next round?

Reload specs...

125gr PRN

1.09

3.9 Titegroup

125gr LFN

1.125

3.9 Titegroup

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Try some new ammunition and see if you have any issues.

That with the KKM and the stock barrel with your ammo.

It is most always the ammo.

It's happened with both the stock barrel and the KKM barrel.

Still puzzled as to why the same piece of ammo would fire just fine the second time I try it?

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Having owned a 34 that never ever had a problem I am going to say your ammo is too long.

Kind of a puzzling malfunction here. If the load was to long and was jamming into the rifling that won't explain why it wouldn't fire. Unless it was slightly out of battery. But then it fires second time through. Perhaps loading twice caused enough set back for it to load properly......if this is the case you are lucky it didn't fire and blow up in your hand.....

What is the oal of your loads?

Glock barrels are very generous and you would have to be way out of spec for cases to get stuck in there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

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Having owned a 34 that never ever had a problem I am going to say your ammo is too long.

Kind of a puzzling malfunction here. If the load was to long and was jamming into the rifling that won't explain why it wouldn't fire. Unless it was slightly out of battery. But then it fires second time through. Perhaps loading twice caused enough set back for it to load properly......if this is the case you are lucky it didn't fire and blow up in your hand.....

What is the oal of your loads?

Glock barrels are very generous and you would have to be way out of spec for cases to get stuck in there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

The longest load I use is 1.125. All on a Dillon 550 with Lee carbide dies. Your concern on the setback is duly noted...

I'm trying to think what else besides a bad round would cause a slide to be stuck forward.

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Having owned a 34 that never ever had a problem I am going to say your ammo is too long.

Kind of a puzzling malfunction here. If the load was to long and was jamming into the rifling that won't explain why it wouldn't fire. Unless it was slightly out of battery. But then it fires second time through. Perhaps loading twice caused enough set back for it to load properly......if this is the case you are lucky it didn't fire and blow up in your hand.....

What is the oal of your loads?

Glock barrels are very generous and you would have to be way out of spec for cases to get stuck in there.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

The longest load I use is 1.125. All on a Dillon 550 with Lee carbide dies. Your concern on the setback is duly noted...

I'm trying to think what else besides a bad round would cause a slide to be stuck forward.

1.125 definitely would not be a problem.....I used some 1.150 today with no problems

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

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Hello all,

I have a Glock 34. From time to time during shooting sessions the gun jams. A round gets chambered, but will not fire. The slide is all the way forward in full battery, but it's stuck and will not easily pull back to eject the round. The initial thought is that the reload is out of spec. However, each piece is case gauged. I've also taken the offending brass and measured it, finding no issues. Further, once I eject the round I can always put it back in and it will fire just fine. I've owned the gun since last Fall. I put probably 1500 rounds through it without an issue. This just started happening and doesn't really correlate with any new parts I've put in the gun.

KKM barrel

Glockworx ejector, connector

Wolf springs

Jager captured guide rod.

Any thoughts?

9mm is tapered case so an outside diameter gauge won't catch rounds out of spec. I have had this problem with all the 9mm reloads I have bought. You can usually find a little bulge about 1/3 of the way up from the rim going forward which does not exceed max overall diameter but will jam in the barrel.

Way to tell is to take the barrel out and drop the round in and tap it lightly on the backside with your finger, Flip the barrel upside down and see if it stays in the barrel. If so, it is "corking" because it's oversized.

FYI: a high quality barrel does it worse because the throat is tighter than a typical gun designed to shoot crappy ammo like a CZ.

Edited by bountyhunter
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So the round gets stuck and it doesn't fire....correct?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Correct
With a Glock, it typically won't fire if it is even a little bit out of battery. If the round is oversized, it will stop a bit short of going full into the barrel and cause that. It will also be tight to try to remove.

A friend of mine who reloads 9mm had to buy a special crimp tool to use on the brass to put the correct taper back on it. The 9mm reloads I have bought over the years ALL have this oversized problem and the severity varies depending on the gun. I ended up buying aftermarket barrels for several of my guns and reaming the throat sufficiently that it could accept the ammo because I had so much of it.

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KKMs have a really tight chamber and I had issues with mine as well.
Much tighter than stock, Wolf, BarSto and etc.
I had to be very careful about case gauging everything and if it offered any resistance to the gauge then it went to the practice pile.

After the round has been chambered once it will usually go back in since the act of initially chambering it has removed some of the case bulge or whatever was causing the issue.

Do you need help getting the round out once it's stuck with the slide forward? I would be happy to demonstrate if you are looking for a good technique.

Edited by alma
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When you remove the round after it does not fire, is there a dent in the primer? If so, does it look sufficiently deep like those that fired normally?

If no dent at all, then the next time it happens, strike the back of the slide with the heel of your hand and notice if the slide moves forward at all. If there is a smaller than normal dent, it could be the firing pin spring. Maybe try going back to the original springs.

If you see a dent that looks normal, it could still be your springs but it could just be the primers you are using are either too hard or maybe a cheap or bad batch.

Of course this doesn't address the problem of the slide locking up.

Edited by netmindr
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A light primer dent can also be caused by the firing pin blocking safety interfering if the slide is just slightly out of battery. If you take the striker out, you can tell by looking for "dings" in the area of the striker that goes by the plunger. You could also remove the plunger to test and see if the ammo starts firing.

But be advised: firing tight ammo is a good way to break and extractor since it is trying to yank out brass that is tightly wedged in the barrel.

Edited by bountyhunter
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Try some new ammunition and see if you have any issues.

That with the KKM and the stock barrel with your ammo.

It is most always the ammo.

It's happened with both the stock barrel and the KKM barrel.

Still puzzled as to why the same piece of ammo would fire just fine the second time I try it?

I wonder if maybe banging it into the barrel throat maybe reduced the brass just enough to let it go fully in the second time?
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