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kneelingatlas

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2 hours ago, kneelingatlas said:

 

It's not uncommon for the safety to need some fitting when you install a new hammer, you can file on the safety or the safety leg of the sear, most people file on the sear because it's cheaper to replace if you go too far.  It's a delicate process where not enough and too much are only a few thousandths apart; if you're not comfortable with the tedious process of trial fitting Cajun Gun Works makes an adjustable sear for this application: https://cajungunworks.com/product/as-b/

Thanks!  Just what I thought and I've already ordered the sear.  I am going to try and fit the one I have just to see if I can do it.

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Thanks!  Just what I thought and I've already ordered the sear.  I am going to try and fit the one I have just to see if I can do it.


I had this same problem of 2 CZ's after I upgraded the hammers. Just take a needle file and make 1 or 2 light passes on the corner of the squared off section of the safety bar where it rotates under the sear. That's where it is catching and impeding he function. Don't use much pressure, all you're trying to do is break that hard edge that's catching on the edge of the sear and preventing the safety from rotating under it. It won't effect the function of the safety since you're not removing any material from the top (the part that rests under the sear and keeps it from moving down once the safety is engaged). I'm not exaggerating when I say one or two passes btw. Make one light pass in one direction and see if it works, then repeat. One of my guns only took one pass to get it working, the other took 3. Hope that helps!


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2 hours ago, Huch said:

 


I had this same problem of 2 CZ's after I upgraded the hammers. Just take a needle file and make 1 or 2 light passes on the corner of the squared off section of the safety bar where it rotates under the sear. That's where it is catching and impeding he function. Don't use much pressure, all you're trying to do is break that hard edge that's catching on the edge of the sear and preventing the safety from rotating under it. It won't effect the function of the safety since you're not removing any material from the top (the part that rests under the sear and keeps it from moving down once the safety is engaged). I'm not exaggerating when I say one or two passes btw. Make one light pass in one direction and see if it works, then repeat. One of my guns only took one pass to get it working, the other took 3. Hope that helps!


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Huch, thanks for the input.  Just to be sure, you are talking about the square piece on the bottom of the ejector cage and not the hook part that goes over the safety rod, correct?

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Huch, thanks for the input.  Just to be sure, you are talking about the square piece on the bottom of the ejector cage and not the hook part that goes over the safety rod, correct?


No, you file the edge on the square shaped portion of the safety bar (that rotates when you move the safety up and down). It's the top rear corner, the one that rotates under the sear when you engage the safety. I'll try to upload a picture if I get a chance.


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On 4/15/2017 at 6:35 PM, henricvs said:

Huch, thanks for the input.  Just to be sure, you are talking about the square piece on the bottom of the ejector cage and not the hook part that goes over the safety rod, correct?

 

These are the two areas which need to fit:

 

IMG_20140124_242001_489_zpsb0b533ee.thumb.jpg.737ab47d6e8f0c5d5680c973e86a7c25.jpg

 

The sear costs $18 (used to be $9) and the safety costs $35, so most people file on the sear to make it fit.

Edited by kneelingatlas
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So it seems that the goal of polishing is to get a smooth finish with the least amount of material removed. Is that about correct?

I ended up using 1000 grit sand paper followed with a dremel and jewellers rouge to polish the various parts in this tutorial.

I polished the hammer strut, the sides of the hammer, the trigger bar, the seer cage and the seer. I forgot to polish the insides of the lower where the trigger bar sits.

I don't know if I was aggressive enough with the polishing. I was quite nervous of going too far and screwing things up. I've never done anything like this.

I got a pretty good finish on all pieces. My parts didn't seem to be as rough to begin with as the ones pictured. Not the deep tooling marks as shown. I tried to get almost a mirror finish on them. Maybe not quite but they were shiny and smooth to the touch.

The trigger does seem a lot more smooth. Not gritty. I installed an CGW ultra lite kit while I was in there so I don't know what was due to polishing and what to the kit. Doesn't really matter I guess.

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Thanks to Kneelingatlas and Huch for helping me install my race hammer.  I finished it today doing as you instructed.  The side benefit of filing on the sear was that I can tear that dang cage apart and put it back together quick!  I really enjoyed working on my CZ and I am grateful for the help from these two members.

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4 minutes ago, anonymouscuban said:

BTW... getting the damn trigger trigger pin back in was much harder that disassemble and reassemble of the seer. The latter was a breeze. The former had me cursing for 30 minutes. Lol

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It's all about the tool.  That is why CGW sells a special punch to take that baby out.  It was a bitch and when I got it done I thought to myself, "oh, that's why they sell that tool.  DAMN IT!!"  lol

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It's all about the tool.  That is why CGW sells a special punch to take that baby out.  It was a bitch and when I got it done I thought to myself, "oh, that's why they sell that tool.  DAMN IT!!"  lol


I didn't have a problem getting it out. The bitch was getting it back in. I struggled trying to align the trigger with the pin back in the gun. I didn't use a vice or clamps to stabilize the lower so maybe that would helo. I did make a slave pin from a finish nail like suggested. About lost the spring 3 times while trying to get the slave pin through the trigger and spring. Haha

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2 minutes ago, anonymouscuban said:

 


I didn't have a problem getting it out. The bitch was getting it back in. I struggled trying to align the trigger with the pin back in the gun. I didn't use a vice or clamps to stabilize the lower so maybe that would helo. I did make a slave pin from a finish nail like suggested. About lost the spring 3 times while trying to get the slave pin through the trigger and spring. Haha

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Oh, that too was a bitch for me.  I think I will make a two piece die one to hold the pin and one to hold the hammer and strut.

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This can't be said enough. I already thanked them earlier but want to again.

I often say that the internet is one of man's greatest inventions but it's all just porn and cat videos without guys like these two that are willing to share what they know.

Thanks again guys.

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On 4/16/2017 at 10:20 AM, anonymouscuban said:

 


I didn't have a problem getting it out. The bitch was getting it back in. I struggled trying to align the trigger with the pin back in the gun. I didn't use a vice or clamps to stabilize the lower so maybe that would helo. I did make a slave pin from a finish nail like suggested. About lost the spring 3 times while trying to get the slave pin through the trigger and spring. Haha

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I used to really struggle with it too. Now I put the trigger in the frame (without the spring in), start the trigger pin and push it through the frame just enough to go into the hole in the trigger and hold it in place. Then hold the trigger spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and push it down into place and hold it while pressing the pin through the spring. Once that's done, everything is held in place and you can just wiggle the trigger and/or spring a bit while pushing on the pin until is slides the rest of the way into the frame. Very easy and eliminates the need for a slave pin or 3 hands. 

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2 minutes ago, Huch said:

I used to really struggle with it too. Now I put the trigger in the frame (without the spring in), start the trigger pin and push it through the frame just enough to go into the hole in the trigger and hold it in place. Then hold the trigger spring with a pair of needle nose pliers and push it down into place and hold it while pressing the pin through the spring. Once that's done, everything is held in place and you can just wiggle the trigger and/or spring a bit while pushing on the pin until is slides the rest of the way into the frame. Very easy and eliminates the need for a slave pin or 3 hands. 

 

Cool. Funny thing is that I forgot to polish the sides of the inside of the lower where the trigger bar sits and rubs. The thought of trying to insert the damn trigger pin again probably meant I wouldn't break it down to finish this for a while. I may do it sooner trying this technique.  

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1 hour ago, anonymouscuban said:

 

Cool. Funny thing is that I forgot to polish the sides of the inside of the lower where the trigger bar sits and rubs. The thought of trying to insert the damn trigger pin again probably meant I wouldn't break it down to finish this for a while. I may do it sooner trying this technique.  

The CGW floating trigger pin is a huge help on the removal front as well. I'd definitely get a couple of those the next time you order anything from them. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very lazy mans guide to diy polishing :) .

 

Bought a Shadow 2, dropped in the usual suspects, 8.5# main spring, extended FP, lighter FP spring, CGW hammer, lighter trigger return spring, floating trigger pin.

 

Didn't polish squat, shot it for 500 rounds + -. 

 

Took it apart & found signs of rubbing on, hammer strut, side of trigger bar, contact surfaces between bottom of sear cage & trigger bar, area around pin in trigger. 

 

Polished where I found rubbing only. Best I can tell the trigger is as good as my other guns where I have been gun ho with the polishing. Getting rid of the rubbing seemed to drop d.a. by 1/2# and make it very smooth, so definitely worthwhile. 

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I surprised to hear that this much modification is required on a "New" Shadow 2.

 

If it still requires all this to have a nice trigger...what are we paying ~$1200.00 for?

 

I'm just saying....

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1 minute ago, tjmay said:

I surprised to hear that this much modification is required on a "New" Shadow 2.

 

If it still requires all this to have a nice trigger...what are we paying ~$1200.00 for?

 

I'm just saying....

 

This thread already has too many posts about side issues (no offense). Wonder if there is any way to parse out?

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  • 2 months later...

Oh no!  Just got my SP-01 and the photobucket pics are all messed up.  Stupid photobucket looks to have changed something.

 

Does anyone have a... copy or something of the pics in this thread?  I read through this thread before I got my gun but now need to figure out how to clean up the trigger.

 

Thanks.

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8 hours ago, gobabygo said:

Oh no!  Just got my SP-01 and the photobucket pics are all messed up.  Stupid photobucket looks to have changed something.

 

Does anyone have a... copy or something of the pics in this thread?  I read through this thread before I got my gun but now need to figure out how to clean up the trigger.

 

Thanks.

 

Yeah, the mods are working on it.  Photobucket changed their terms and now they want $399/yr to get third party hosting back :angry:

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