Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Should I buy a used SP-01Shadow?


george76904

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I was in one of the local gun stores looking for shotgun ammo. I was looking at the pistols because I had some time, and I saw a used SP-01shadow for $500. I will admit to being new to CZs but I know my way around a witness which is a nearly identical platform. The slide to frame lockup felt pretty good but the barrel looked pretty worn. The trigger felt smooth but odd, it was pretty smooth even in double action but in single action it was really long 2 stage trigger lots of pretravel but a crisp break. I really liked it but to use my fathers words he described it as a cool gun that looked pristine but had a lot of rounds through it. What is a used shadow worth? I am not sure about the internals as I was in a store with a clerk staring at me and didn't want to freak him out bh breaking it down in the store. However it felt like the safety had some play in it. If I bought the gun is this fixable with a new safety/sear combo or either one?

Thanks,

Will

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hard to say without looking at it personally. the CZ barrels are fine with tens of thousands of rounds down the tube, for $500 it'd be hard to go wrong unless there's an actual issue. the safeties being loose, they get some (but not gobs of) play once they have rounds through them. I would perform the usual safety checks. are you sure it is truly a shadow? no firing pin block and 'shadow' rollmarked into the slide would tell you that. i don't think they should have a problem with you breaking it down to just check the guts if you show you are a serious buyer.

with regards to the super long pretravel, are you cocking the hammer and doing a complete pull? or are you starting from the rear most point, going forward to reset, then back again?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried both as far as the trigger goes and yes it was a shadow.I shoot a witness but I liked the feel of it enought that I am seriously considering it who knows maybe Santa will come through, or I'll just buy it for myself.

Edited by george76904
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look it over and you decide if it is worth it for you... Personally, for $500 it WOULD be worth it only if the frame was not cracked or other visible signs of "owner gun smithing" or other abuse...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look it over and you decide if it is worth it for you... Personally, for $500 it WOULD be worth it only if the frame was not cracked or other visible signs of "owner gun smithing" or other abuse...

Well as far as owner gun smithing I have no issue with one that someone has done a trigger job to but I mean if they changed the angle on the face of the disconector then yes. Personally my father I do our own smithing from building an AR to building an open top end for my witness. Hence the no issue to self smiths.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an example of what could go wrong on a used purchase, I ran into a non-shadow that had a bubba trigger job on it. We negotiated down on it, which was a good thing. I had to replace the sear and trigger bar on it which returned it to stock, which cost $18 and $34 respectively. Trigger felt wierd and the hammer could be ridden down using the trigger itself. They got too aggressive on the trigger bar and sear where they interfaced with each other. Lifting the sear slightly using the trigger, you could then let the trigger forward and walk the hammer down. The disconnector was still OK and the hammer wasn't touched. Then we found that the firing pin retaining pin (the one that goes through the slide) had chipped, which made the firing pin do an occasional light strike due to wayward metal fragments in the firing pin channel. firing pin checked out OK, but it appears that the firing pin retaining pin wasn't original as it was pretty thin-walled. I replaced it with an $8 solid pin. Once those were taken care of, the gun was up and kickin' butt. So for a few bucks we had a non-shadow up and running with about $60 in parts.

Bottom line is that when you buy used just make sure everything is working and the trigger or other stuff hasn't been bubba gump'd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No offence meant to folks, including my self, that do their gun smithing "properly" or know what to do... Some folks are not mechanically inclined and can cause some serious issues...

For some of my first attempts at gun smithing my own guns, I make sure I keep the factory parts and put back in if I am selling.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I can't see you ever loosing dough on a $500 used 75 SP01 shadow unless it has something un-repairable on the frame... barrel might look like it's had some rounds but should clear up nicely unless it's been abused. They should (and do) last a looooong time. some club guns here have done 250,000+ on original bits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As an example of what could go wrong on a used purchase, I ran into a non-shadow that had a bubba trigger job on it. We negotiated down on it, which was a good thing. I had to replace the sear and trigger bar on it which returned it to stock, which cost $18 and $34 respectively. Trigger felt wierd and the hammer could be ridden down using the trigger itself. They got too aggressive on the trigger bar and sear where they interfaced with each other. Lifting the sear slightly using the trigger, you could then let the trigger forward and walk the hammer down. The disconnector was still OK and the hammer wasn't touched. Then we found that the firing pin retaining pin (the one that goes through the slide) had chipped, which made the firing pin do an occasional light strike due to wayward metal fragments in the firing pin channel. firing pin checked out OK, but it appears that the firing pin retaining pin wasn't original as it was pretty thin-walled. I replaced it with an $8 solid pin. Once those were taken care of, the gun was up and kickin' butt. So for a few bucks we had a non-shadow up and running with about $60 in parts.

Bottom line is that when you buy used just make sure everything is working and the trigger or other stuff hasn't been bubba gump'd.

Thats pretty messed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...