Smitty79 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I went to the range with my G34 today. When my son's girlfriend (First time shooter) shot it, it fired multiple rounds on 1 trigger pull. I figured it had something to do with her ability to control the gun. I tried it and it would occasionally fire when I released the trigger past the reset point. I have tested this without ammo and about 1 in 10 times, if I dry fire and then cycle the slide, the striker will go forward when I release the trigger past reset.I bought the gun second hand. It has a ghost connector in it. The guy who sold it to me also had a Zev Tech connector he sold me with it.My plan of action is to see if I can find a stock connector in stock some place tomorrow morning and put that in. If I can't, I will put in the ZT connector and see if that works. This make sense? It seems to align with what I have found on the internet. But I would appreciate help. Need to fix quickly. I am travelling this week and have a match next weekend. If I can't make the Glock safe, I will be shooting it with a Kahr PM9. ( I am so bad, it probably won't affect my standing.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrVvrroomm Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Pull out the firing pin safety. You'll probably find the spring lying sideways down inside the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Based on your input and knowing that the Ghost kit uses a reduced power firing pin safety spring, I checked out the firing pin safety. If felt "crunchy". I cleaned and lubed it and now I can't make if fail when dry firing. Heading for the range to verify with ammo. Will load 2 rounds in the magazine at a time to build confidence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Check the firing pin contact as well, if it was agressively polished it could be causing the doubling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dlebowski Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I had this happen to me once. I bought a 3.5 Lone Wolf Dist connector, put it in a brand new G19. Would fire on the reset every single time. Put the stock connector back in and no problem. It's the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill o Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I had this happen to me once. I bought a 3.5 Lone Wolf Dist connector, put it in a brand new G19. Would fire on the reset every single time. Put the stock connector back in and no problem. It's the connector. Same thing happened to me with the Lone Wolf connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Check the firing pin contact as well, if it was agressively polished it could be causing the doubling. I went to the range and it worked fine for 25 rounds. Then it started, occasionally, firing on reset again. From the comments, I am going to get a new 5lb connector. I can't see obvious polishing of the firing pin contact point polishing. But I don't have a lot of experience with this kind of thing. Should I toss in a new firing pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockman1000 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Try the connector first before investing in more parts, but not a bad idea to keep a spare striker around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billfer Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I had a Zev connector in my G17 last year. The gun would "double" with this connector. Stop when I switched it out with a newer one from Zev. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 The connector is generally the problem when you fire the gun and on releasing the trigger it fires again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlgentlegiant Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Some others can chime in here but in my experience it sounds like the angle of the connector main body has been changed somehow. The connector needs to "lean out" at the top so contact with the trigger bar is maintained. When that angle gets changed is when I have seen doubles and full auto happen. Again this is just based on my own experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 (edited) Some others can chime in here but in my experience it sounds like the angle of the connector main body has been changed somehow. The connector needs to "lean out" at the top so contact with the trigger bar is maintained. When that angle gets changed is when I have seen doubles and full auto happen. Again this is just based on my own experience.Sounds right. However, the OP may also have a gun where somebody stoned on the striker tab to "improve" the trigger break. If a new disconnector doesn't cure it, a new striker may be needed too. This is the biggest reason I don't like the Glock design: the firing pin safety doesn't prevent doubles like it does in the Beretta, SIG, XD, HI Power and others which have the pivoting arm that raises the firing pin blocking plunger. It automatically releases to the safe position when the slide cycles and the firing pin is blocked until the trigger is fully released and pulled again to raise the FP blocking plunger. The Glock just has a bump on the trigger bar to raise the plunger, so it goes into fire mode based on the position of the trigger bar.... does not require the release/repull to get to fire. When I saw how easy it would be to turn a Glock into a machine gun...... I got less enthusiastic about fooling with the trigger. Edited June 19, 2013 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Sounds right. However, the OP may also have a gun where somebody stoned on the striker tab to "improve" the trigger break. If a new disconnector doesn't cure it, a new striker may be needed too. I stated this in post 4. People modify Glock triggers when they do not know what they are doing and that is the big problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 It's working now. The guy I bought if from said he only did part changes. Not "polishing". I changed the striker safety spring and the striker spring and took it back the the range. After 50 perfect rounds I put another 100 through it at a 3 gun match. All one shot at a time. Thanks for the feed back folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stick Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Check the firing pin contact as well, if it was agressively polished it could be causing the doubling. I'm running a Ghost rocket in my G34. Never had this problem and I ride the reset on the trigger. I too think its from the spring or it has been aggressively polished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickboy44 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 The safety plunger spring is probably laying on its side...it happen to me My gun doubled and trippled ....very interesting stage I shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinB Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Reviving this topic because I just started having this problem. I run a titanium striker, a ghost 3.5 connector, a ZEV firing pin safety plunger, and ZEV springs (trigger reset, 2# striker, and reduced power FPS spring). I thought maybe it was the FPS spring not getting the plunger down so I replaced it with the factory one. Not a good idea! Now it does it every time whereas before it was extremely intermittent. I replaced all the go-fast parts with factory parts except the connector, which of course fixed the problem on the dry fire side, but doubles the pull weight of the trigger and I have yet to live fire it (tomorrow will tell). Before anyone asks, no, I have not done any grinding on any of the parts. I'm guessing this is traceable to a particular part, so I'm asking the forum for some expert opinions. After converting the files to a manageable size, the audio is out of synch, but if anyone needs to see it: (Web page locks up when I try to embed a link. Thank God for Auto Save, because I honestly wouldn't have re-typed my post!) https://youtu.be/PjG2855Vz8s EDIT: I installed the half-plate to see what was going on, and it appears the Ti striker slips off the top of the trigger bar as it moves forwards during reset. The factory striker doesn't, so there's the problem. A close examination of the Ti striker shows some wear at the engagement point, but it doesn't LOOK like it would be enough to make it slip, but apparently it is. My G35 is back in factory trim for now and I suppose I'll be researching new trigger/striker stuff. I thought I had this figured out, but I'm not putting 1/5th the cost of the gun into a new striker every 9 months. Still, if anyone has any insight, I'm all ears! Edited January 2, 2016 by KevinB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Polish the OEM firing pin and go with a 4.5# firing pin spring and your trigger pull weight will increase approximately 5oz. but it should not double. . Your Zev 2# spring is actually a 4# spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinB Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I always assume spring weights are a relative measure among the same companies' spring lineup, so I wouldn't be surprised to find that's the case. The top of the trigger bar and the factory striker had about 80k rounds on them before I switched to the Ti, so they are super smooth. The weight didn't actually double. Hyperbole is my go-to when I'm frustrated! The 2# ZEV didn't have enough oomph to set off Win SP primers 100% of the time with the factory striker, so I went with the lighter one and it was back to 100%. The lighter striker spring, the low drag plunger with the light firing pin safety spring, the 3.5 connector, and the extra power trigger reset spring had a profound effect of the weight of the trigger pull. I'm going to be chasing that again in a version with better longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeweyH Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I had the same issue but it came from switching uppers and lowers. I came to the conclusion that my trigger bar and striker were on the opposite ends of the allowable tolerances. I could induce my reset firing by pulling the trigger, racking and holding up on the rear of the slide as I released the trigger. This was done with an empty gun. I could make it happen every time with this particular striker/trigger bar combo. I replaced the trigger bar and striker and the problem ceased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I have seen more guys have trouble with aftermarket connectors and triggers, especially if they have enhanced them. Same old story, oh it ran fine when I put it in, now it doesn't. Just because a Glock is simple to put parts in doesn't mean the people doing it know anything about Glock function. And it's one thing for an experienced competitive shooter to have an issue, but a for newbie to pistol shooting, no, put it all back to stock. Would you start a newbie with a G18 or select fire M4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinB Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I expect parts to wear, but not wear out in 9 months. It's possible there's some tolerance stacking going on that would mean the striker wouldn't have to wear as much to start failing. I've got the 3.5 connector in there now but everything else is back to stock. I'll call Lightning Strike during the week and see what they say. All that being said, it's not like I'm going to stop shooting until the issue is resolved, so maybe I'll find some love for the trigger that's in there now in the mean time. I hate grinding/polishing stuff to make it work. The fact that 99% of parts are drop-in is the whole reason I went away from the 2011 platform and started shooting a Glock to begin with! That, and replacement parts are cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadcoyote Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I had this happen to me once. I bought a 3.5 Lone Wolf Dist connector, put it in a brand new G19. Would fire on the reset every single time. Put the stock connector back in and no problem. It's the connector.Same thing happened to me with the Lone Wolf connector. I gotta try me one of these connectors! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 All I can tell you is from my experience. 170,000 rounds on my oldest 2 pin G17 with the OEM Glock 3.5lb connector. No issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerdug Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Before you change the connector. You need a heavier firing pin spring. I imagine if changed the connector, he replaced springs too. I had an issue with a Zev firing pin spring that would cause it to burst fire. I later figured out that spring wasn't allowing the firing pin to catch the drop safety. If you get an OEM one, you should see it stop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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