Nebwake Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 (edited) Hmmm. Now I am really starting to wonder about the Nordic nuts. I will hopefully know more when the Nova shotgun and more of the Nordic parts get here this week. I will try every combination I have parts for and report the results. It would make more sense that the nuts were off since there is no rhyme or reason with the stoger S/N's. If you ordered a replacement stoger nut, I am pretty sure they wouldn't ask for the S/N, and I bet they would fit. I am going to buy a 3000 to replace my 1100 today. Perhaps the people with Nordic nuts can measure them (I/D and thread length?) Edited February 6, 2014 by Nebwake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I recieved my mag tube nut from openclassterror this week and put it on this morning. It worked perfectly. I highly recommend purchasing his product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I recieved my mag tube nut from openclassterror this week and put it on this morning. It worked perfectly. I highly recommend purchasing his product. So I take it you don't have to cut the tip off the OEM tube with this nut? I cut mine but didn't like having to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Jesse, the nut I got from openclassterror just screwed on my unmodified M3000 that the Nova nut wouldn't work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) I finally got my gun all back together. Here is what I did: - shorten the buttstock 1" - opened up loading port (milled forward .06", raised .10", beveled 30deg and blended) - MOA nut with +5 MXT - Norcic bolt release I'm really happy with how this thing loads now. I also plan to test a 12oz weight that I made that screws into the buttstock and see if it makes a difference in recoil. With this weight, it weighs exactly what my VM Tactical weighs (7lb, 15oz). Edited February 7, 2014 by Ryan N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magichelmt Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Ryan that looks great. I cannot wait to see this in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc1094 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Looks good. How did the bold release fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Did u cut the stock or is that extra piece the 12oz weight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Thanks. I drilled and tapped the original bolt release 6-32. I milled the slight radius off of the head. I also had to shorten the screw for it to work. Beyond that, it works great. I cut the stock 1"(I'm 5'7"). The piece I made to go in the buttstock is nothing more than a piece of SS round stock that I tapped 8x1mm so it will screw right on top of the nut that attaches that buttstock. Stoeger makes something similar called a recoil reducer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Nice looking work! Just wondering what load technique you use? I took a lot more material off the bottom of the receiver between the lifter and the fore-end so my hand could slide past a little smoother as my thumb stuffs the shells in during the duaload. Basically kept the angle of that little pad ahead of the opening but cut it deeper until it blended. Almost like a bevel from the loading port to the end of the receiver, instead of a radius to a step. Do you not find it necessary? It didn't hurt anything to take the extra material off, just wondering if I got more aggressive than needed. I would have saved a bit of work if I didn't need to remove the extra metal. BTW, your blend work is very nice, always easy to spot when someone takes pride in their workmanship. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Thanks Tom. I am an oddball right hander that normally loads strong hand from AP 4x4's. I only recently began "playing" with weakhand L2. For me, a modest amount off the bottom of the receiver sides has worked for me. Having the step toward the front of the loading port doesn't bother, but I haven't tried L2/4 enough to really know if I need to modify it further. I do like to "funnel" the throat of the mag tube. This is only my second attempt at loading port work, so I am still learning what really needs attention. A big thanks to folks that have shared their work and proceedures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heaman Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 I received my +6 Nordic kit with MOA precision nut yesterday. Tom did a great job with these and the fit is great with no modification required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Heaman, what length barrel is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heaman Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Heaman, what length barrel is that? It is supposed to be 26" but measures roughly 25.5" from the end of the barrel to the receiver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Legal definition of barrel length ATF uses is the distance from the face of the closed bolt to the end of the barrel. If you drop a cleaning rod down the bore until it touches the bolt and mark it, it should be close to 26". Some types of guns have more barrel inside the receiver than others (bullpups for instance), so some type of standard had to be developed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabe Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Would Stoeger barrels inter change with Benelli? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 No. The cam setup on the bolt and the angle of the locking lugs is different. Not sure if the barrel would physically go into the receiver, but bolt would not mate up. Also, the recoil spring is mounted inside the fore-end more like an m3, not through the action like the other benellis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butterpuc Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 I recieved my mag tube nut from openclassterror this week and put it on this morning. It worked perfectly. I highly recommend purchasing his product. So I take it you don't have to cut the tip off the OEM tube with this nut? I cut mine but didn't like having to do it. Jesse, no modifications needed. It screwed on as easily as the oem nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan N Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Jesse, here is a photo of the weight you were asking about. Its just a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" SS with a 8x1mm hole tapped in one end and a slot for a screw driver in the other end. Like I said before, it brings the weight of the SG to right under 8lbs. Being in the buttstock, it still swings the same as it does without the weight. I haven't shot it yet with the weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Jesse, here is a photo of the weight you were asking about. Its just a piece of 3/4" or 5/8" SS with a 8x1mm hole tapped in one end and a slot for a screw driver in the other end. Like I said before, it brings the weight of the SG to right under 8lbs. Being in the buttstock, it still swings the same as it does without the weight. I haven't shot it yet with the weight. Very cool! Let us know how it feels. I'd like to learn more about that stock shortening project. Someone was recently asking about this gun and one of their needs was that the stock needed shortening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhazard Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 I tried to shorten it with the stock pad like Ryan but ran into problem grinding the stock pad. It has a scalloped plate that wouldn't grind clean. I picked up a kick-ez pad with a long slot that you can fit to a lot of guns. I had to make another cut as it was longer but it worked out fine. I was able to cut about 5/8 off and still was able to use the stock mounting holes. If I took much more off I would have had to add a new screw hole with epoxy to get it mounted. It's shade under 14" now. I still have some finish grinding to do but here is a pick after the rough grind. The kick-ez makes a big difference in the felt recoil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 That looks clean. Now the question is who does that sorta thing as a business? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhazard Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Any gunsmith should be able to fit and grind a recoil pad. I just did it the redneck way. I cut the stock with my miter saw and ground it with my belt sander clamped on a bench. Any decent smith should have a bandsaw, jig, and disk sander to get the job done right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Any gunsmith should be able to fit and grind a recoil pad. I just did it the redneck way. I cut the stock with my miter saw and ground it with my belt sander clamped on a bench. Any decent smith should have a bandsaw, jig, and disk sander to get the job done right. Yeah? Please name one that works on 3 gun shotguns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Any gunsmith should be able to fit and grind a recoil pad. I just did it the redneck way. I cut the stock with my miter saw and ground it with my belt sander clamped on a bench. Any decent smith should have a bandsaw, jig, and disk sander to get the job done right. Yeah? Please name one that works on 3 gun shotguns. Accurate Iron won't shorten a stock? What about Steve Rose? That stuff isn't rocket science, nor are the jigs pricey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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