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Best Aternative to Magpul BAD Lever?


StealthyBlagga

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For the last year I've had a Magpul BAD lever on my match rifle. When practicing for SMM3G recently, I noticed that my bolt would not always hold open on an empty mag. I traced the problem to the BAD lever itself, presumably due to the inertia of the added mass. Removing it solved the problem.

Has anyone else had this problem and overcome it either by modifying the BAD or by installing a different brand of lever? I'd like to retain the BAD-like functionality, but not at the expense of the bolt failing to hold open reliably when the mag is empty.

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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i was having issues with my silent captured spring and JP told me that the extra mass/length of the BAD may cause the return of the bolt catch to not lock back especially with overgassed rifles or the higher speed of the LMOS.

I know it's sounds reverse but the way he put it made more sense. a heavier buffer spring should slow it down enough for the bolt catch/release to catch up (pun)

Edited by dukduk
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Maybe you got a bad BAD? Sorry, had to be said

Lol...I would have thought that initially, but the receiver relief is just big enough for the bolt catch, so the sandwich design of the BAD lever just doesn't work....

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I had a buddy who had the same thing happen for a while. After a bit of watching him shoot we found out the reason was that he was hitting the BAD lever while indexing under stress causing the bolt to keep closing. You might try some video of the magwell / ejection port while doing reload drills and see if that gives some insight.

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I use the Tactical Link one because I have smaller hands, and it sits a little more back. On the issue of the bolt not staying open: I have an M&P15-22 that I've set up as an exact replica of my M4 for training. On the M&P15-22, this problem is extremely common. The solution is cutting the bolt release spring shorter. It solves the issue on the 15-22s. I'm wondering if this would also be the case with regular ARs. Anyone tried this as a fix on an AR?

"Ex Umbris Venimus"

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I don't understand the weight issue. I made an exact copy of a BAD lever from stainless, and welded it to the factory catch. Haven't had it fail to lock back yet. And I know the stainless is heavier than aluminum. The magazine spring should not have a problem overcoming a little additional weight. Maybe timing? If the bolt isn't going far enough rearward to allow time for the catch to be pushed up with the extra weight? Dang, those BAD levers don't weigh crap though.

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I had a buddy who had the same thing happen for a while. After a bit of watching him shoot we found out the reason was that he was hitting the BAD lever while indexing under stress causing the bolt to keep closing. You might try some video of the magwell / ejection port while doing reload drills and see if that gives some insight.

This,

Of the numerous BAD malfunction complaints I've been on site for & helped diagnosed this was universally the case.

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I had a buddy who had the same thing happen for a while. After a bit of watching him shoot we found out the reason was that he was hitting the BAD lever while indexing under stress causing the bolt to keep closing. You might try some video of the magwell / ejection port while doing reload drills and see if that gives some insight.

This,

Of the numerous BAD malfunction complaints I've been on site for & helped diagnosed this was universally the case.

It's not just happening under match conditions. Even off the bench or offhand while checking function I get this issue - I'm definitely not touching the BAD lever.

I use the Tactical Link one because I have smaller hands, and it sits a little more back. On the issue of the bolt not staying open: I have an M&P15-22 that I've set up as an exact replica of my M4 for training. On the M&P15-22, this problem is extremely common. The solution is cutting the bolt release spring shorter. It solves the issue on the 15-22s. I'm wondering if this would also be the case with regular ARs. Anyone tried this as a fix on an AR?

I suspect it's just a timing issue; the added inertia of the bolt catch+BAD lever slow down the movement of the catch when the mag follower is pushing up on it. When I retract the bolt by hand on an empty mag, it locks open OK every time.

As you suggest, shortening the bolt catch spring might help, as might going to stronger mag springs. However, both are just BandAids for a problem caused by an aftermarket accessory that is anything but essential. While it is convenient and nice to have, IMHO the BAD lever is not worth compromising my gun's reliability for so I think I'll just abandon it and look for something lighter. Or just live with the original bolt catch, which has always served me pretty well. Either way, I won't be losing too much sleep over it.

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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"While it is convenient and nice to have, IMHO the BAD lever is not worth compromising my gun's reliability for so I think I'll just abandon it . . . Or just live with the original bolt catch, which has always served me pretty well. Either way, I won't be losing too much sleep over it."

I was lucky enough to be involved with the BAD T&E long before it was released. When it came time to deploy again I found myself echoing your above sentiment and left it home. It was bad enough loosing a couple seconds in a flat range setting. It wasn't worth risking my rifle's reliability.

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