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Got Benelli M1 Super 90


Montrala

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Last week, as result of unexpected developments, I bought myself Benelli M1 Super 90 with 18.5" rifle sights barrel and 7+1 one piece magazine tube. Shotgun is in NIB state (was shot just for Police to collect spent cases), but was laying around one of Benelli distributors here for some years and managed to get some finish damage here and there. I paid roughly $1100 for it (including 23% VAT tax) - that is great price for self loading Benelli here.

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I primarily plan to use it for Polish 3Gun competition called Liga Sportera. In Liga Sportera any self loading shotgun automatically goes in Open, I can use RDS, speed loaders and what not with it. Actually I was shooting open before with my 24" Supernova, but "arms race" here took up with several Saiga 12 shotguns making it's way here. Part of this unexpected development is that I initially planed for Molot Vepr 12 or MKA1919 and ended up with Benelli. One important thing in Liga Sportera is that we start with 5 rounds loaded, and magazine shotguns can not be reloaded until shot empty (or first magazine retained - IDPA style rules). So tube shotgun is not at huge disadvantage here (I hope - Polish Championship is coming!). I plan to use speed loaders (Armstec with Arredondo funnel) as well as weak hand loading. I had less than stellar experience with my Supernova, but I hope to turn tides with M1.

Last few days I was browsing all Benelli M1/M2 related topics on this forum, back to middle of 2007 (about to page 100 of sub-forum). What I learn as primary rule about M1 is "send it to Benny Hill". Unfortunately sending it from Poland to Corpus Christi, TX, while feasible, probably would cost more that shotgun itself and took a year for paperwork to go trough. Also my head is literally going to blow up from amount of knowledge I found in all those threads and tried to assimilate (anyone remember StarGate episode when main hero got all this alien knowledge dumped in his head - this is how I feel!).

So I need some advice on what I can do using my local resources.

1. Bolt (bolt carrier actually) modification: I got what to do for ghost load mod. But I want also to lighten bolt and not to over-do it. Is it safe to assume that milling to level with surface where firing pin retainer sits is OK? Should I go deeper or maybe not so deep with it? I will also use NC "old" style (rotating) bolt handle (we do mostly empty chamber starts). We mostly shoot here 32g #4 birdshot (S&B Practical or similar), K.O. Brenneke LR slugs and Polish FAM Pionki ammo. Can I expect shotgun to cycle 28g #7.5 shot after bolt lightening?

2. Loading port: I plan to load both from speed loader and weak hand loading. I got message about opening loading port (bottom of receiver). But I have problem with info about "throating" magazine entrance for speed loader use. Should I open up entrance to magazine in receiver (top and bottom of it?) or edge of magazine tube itself?

3. Carrier and magazine shell catch: I trained some weak hand loading and found that because I use top of thumb to push round, while 1st joint holds carrier, my thumb feels OK (I learned this on my Hatsan Escort pump). So I will not modify carrier for now, maybe try to buy C-Rum complete carrier later on. But magazine catch can indeed be little softer to go past. I found advice on bending it or weakening in flex point by enlarging openings on sides. I think second method is better, because it does not change how deep catch goes over shell bottom, but maybe other method is better. Please advise.

4. Magazine: I want to increase capacity a little (for possible IPSC use and to do some loading after start signal). I was surprised to see, that I have one piece tube. I decided to try to buy regular (3 round) tube and +6 NC extension (I have +5 and +7 tubes for Supernova, so seem to have all bases covered here). Is replacing magazine tube good idea? Is fitting new tube to barrel very hard to do? Should I use aftermarket follower (NC? Brownells? other?) or is Benelli one good to go?

5. Barrel: With longer magazine tube I want to use little longer barrel. I was thinking to get 4" Briley barrel extension. Is it good idea? Anything I should know about installing it, that I will not find in users manual? I understand that in process of getting Briley extension it will be good to have LM choke from Briley as well, but those chokes goes in dozen flavours - any advice on what type to get best? Later I might try to get 24" M2 barrel with bead for IPSC Standard Semi Auto shooting (barrel is considered separate firearm here, so I must get additional permit for it).

6. Sights: Now it has rifle sights, but for 3Gun I will use RDS. How is Burris SpeedBead working for M1? I see they plan to have version for M1 available as "base only". In case I will need to use original rifle sights, is painting front sight good idea? What about rear? Maybe installing fibre optic in front sight?

7. Stock: Shotgun is equipped with synthetic, straight stock. I've read about how Comfortech stock from M2 is way better. However I have only bad experience with this stock on my Supernova. Eventually stock broke (small platic "bridge" that keeps upper halves together broke) on me during shooting. I replaced it with....cough.... pistol grip stock. I used Mesa Urbino stock with Limbsaver and I could not be happier with it on my Supernova (it also work nice for my frontal stance with shorter LOP - but M1 straight stock has short LOP as well). I tried this stock on M1 and it fits it, so I think about getting M1 designated Urbino with Limbsaver for M1. I noticed that using Benelli PG stock is not good idea due to some angle problems, but what about Mesa Urbino? If I decide to grow up and use straight stock, is adding Limbsaver good idea?

8. Anything important I forgot to ask? Except "get some ammo and go learn shooting damn thing" :) BTW How may round to get it broken in?

Thanks in advance for good advice!

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I have shot my Benelli M1 S-90 with an 18.5" bbl since I bought it new in 1988. Other than having to run hotter than cheap Wal-Crap ammo, I have never had any issues with the 24 years and 60K+ rounds that it has fired. I have 3 boys and each of them have a older S-90 with a 18.5" bbl and their guns run great too.

I would advise you to get use to your gun before you start changing everything. Being outside the USA, you probably do not have access to better gunsmithing and those like Benny Hill that have 20+ years experience working on them. Go back and read how old and how many rounds my stock S-90 has and try to save some money.

I have found that $1000 of ammo in any gun gives me a better skillset with that gun than $1000 of gunsmithing.....

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I have shot my Benelli M1 S-90 with an 18.5" bbl since I bought it new in 1988. Other than having to run hotter than cheap Wal-Crap ammo, I have never had any issues with the 24 years and 60K+ rounds that it has fired. I have 3 boys and each of them have a older S-90 with a 18.5" bbl and their guns run great too.

I would advise you to get use to your gun before you start changing everything. Being outside the USA, you probably do not have access to better gunsmithing and those like Benny Hill that have 20+ years experience working on them. Go back and read how old and how many rounds my stock S-90 has and try to save some money.

I have found that $1000 of ammo in any gun gives me a better skillset with that gun than $1000 of gunsmithing.....

Good advice. Thanks.

I'm going to test it with ammo I use most of the time now (32g FAM Practical Short birdshot, 28g FAM Pactical Slug Short slugs and 32.5g FAM SG buckshot), to see how it works with this ammo. I also got some 34g Fiocchi birdshot, that I got cheap, just to break it in.

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I have shot my Benelli M1 S-90 with an 18.5" bbl since I bought it new in 1988. Other than having to run hotter than cheap Wal-Crap ammo, I have never had any issues with the 24 years and 60K+ rounds that it has fired. I have 3 boys and each of them have a older S-90 with a 18.5" bbl and their guns run great too.

I would advise you to get use to your gun before you start changing everything. Being outside the USA, you probably do not have access to better gunsmithing and those like Benny Hill that have 20+ years experience working on them. Go back and read how old and how many rounds my stock S-90 has and try to save some money.

I have found that $1000 of ammo in any gun gives me a better skillset with that gun than $1000 of gunsmithing.....

Good advice. Thanks.

I'm going to test it with ammo I use most of the time now (32g FAM Practical Short birdshot, 28g FAM Pactical Slug Short slugs and 32.5g FAM SG buckshot), to see how it works with this ammo. I also got some 34g Fiocchi birdshot, that I got cheap, just to break it in.

Sorry- I thought there would be a million posts on this. You have the best kind of tactical M1S90-the sights are on the barrel, not on the receiver. If you can change chokes on it , I would leave the barrel as it is. The sights are for slugs. No need for optics. In Europe, I think you can get original Benelli extension magazine tubes that would give you the 8+1 configuration that I think you are looking for. Or just leave it in the 7+1 configuration. You can smooth out the loading port with emery boards (nail files) and it only has to be done in the area where your thumb and fingers contact the edge of the port. Remember it's aluminum-not steel!There is no real advantage to really opening the port super large. WIth a pistol grip you won't be able to load with speed loaders. WIth the pistol grip and much practice of the weak hand load you should be able to get your speed up considerably. There are several shotgun shooters I know who can consistently beat times of Open shotgun shooters. Most Open shooters in the US are in Open because they can't load weak 4 shells at a time comfortably. They are not in Open because of equipment configuration-they go there by choice. In the US that particular model of Benelli is very valuable and sought after by knowledgeable 3 gun and shotgun match shooters. It is a great gun. I would not go after bolt lightening -it is a much misunderstood art- and can make a functional shotgun stop working. The thing that would help you most is a welded up lifter (shell carrier) and the most reliable that are easily available are by Jeff at C-Rums-I think he is a vendor here on the forum and I think it is a exportable part. If he can't export it, get a second lifter from Brownells and look at some demonstrations on You tube or in writing about how to do it with your gunsmith. There is an art to it and most non-functional ones are that way because they are too long, and too polished. you are just trying to fill in the open groove in the lifter -but too much metal on them will interfere with the up and down movement and the "timing" of the shell coming out of the magazine tube. There is a curve to them that is best done by feel and trial and error. The least amount of work you do to that shotgun the better. FInd slugs that work consistently and a shell that works reliably well all the time and just shoot it a lot. Great shotgun. DVC. Original Benelli follower is fine. Straight stock is fine. Sleep with it. Great gun.

Edited by Jadeslade
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Did you think about contacting one of the builders via PM and see if they could help you out. maybe they would be willing to talk about what they do, since it is not feasible for you to get the gun to them. Never know.

I would gladly take pictures of mine. I have work done to the lifter, bolt lightened, modified for ghost load. All by C-Rums. Then Trapr (redneck Tactical) opened the loading port, smoothed everything out and added a sight on the vent rib for slugs.

I had the work done with C-Rums about 6 months after getting the gun, and the work with Trapr about a year after. I needed to be a better shooter in order for those mods to make a difference. Still not all that good, but better.

Matt

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Sleep with it. Great gun.

First of all, thanks for big reply!

Yes, there is over million posts on that. And I've read most of them. That is why I'm so messed up :surprise:

Yes, I can change chokes on my barrel. Got IC, M and F together with shotgun (I plan to get Briley LM as well). It also came with M2 safety button. As to magazine, I have one piece tube, so no magazine extension on this one. But I have already original short "open" tube on way from Brownells and +6 NC extension as well (I have +5 and +7 NC tubes for my Supernova so I will look for best config).

I've test put Mesa Urbino stock from my Supernova on M1, just to see how it feels. My weak hand loading speed (8 with bolt locked back, since I can not put 8 in tube) went down from 10s to 8s for stock change alone. I struggle with small loading port and high loading resistance (I modified shell latch a little, but was afraid to overdo and Brownells is out of stock on those). Supernova spoiled me on this for sure. I'm aware that I can have problems to use speedloaders with PG stock, but maybe cutting pistol grip little shorter can solve that. I will see. Tec-loaders are on their way. Did I mention Brownells before? :cheers: (shotgun parts are exportable without restrictions to Poland, except ones that are considered shotgun themselves in US or here - at least this is what very nice lady from Brownells Export Department told me some time ago).

As to straight stock, this abomination called Comfrotech stock on Supernova made me allergic to straight stocks. But plain M1 stock feels much better, I must admit.

Self loading shotgun puts me in Open class in our kind of 3Gun, so I wanted to add RDS anyway. I have Docter-style RDS on my Supernova anyway (because I can use it both in Tactical and Open class with RDS). We have different approach to classes here, due to profile of firearms owned here. I'm actually on Rules Committee for it, so it is partially my own fault :blush:

I will leave lifter for now. My thumb seem to agree with it, so it is not a priority. Reliability is. I must think deep on hacking bolt carrier (ghost load and load out of battery mods are no brainier, but lightening is). For know I postponed mods to M1, until I gather more knowledge and sleep more with it. I dropped my 9.4" Mini Beryl carbine for my gunsmith to play with in meantime :devil:

I do "sleep with it" every night since I got it. Kid with new toy. Good we have law on storing firearms. In other case I would sleep with it under my pillow :goof:

Did you think about contacting one of the builders via PM and see if they could help you out. maybe they would be willing to talk about what they do, since it is not feasible for you to get the gun to them. Never know.

I would gladly take pictures of mine. I have work done to the lifter, bolt lightened, modified for ghost load. All by C-Rums. Then Trapr (redneck Tactical) opened the loading port, smoothed everything out and added a sight on the vent rib for slugs.

I had the work done with C-Rums about 6 months after getting the gun, and the work with Trapr about a year after. I needed to be a better shooter in order for those mods to make a difference. Still not all that good, but better.

Thanks for an offer. I would gladly see the pictures (I actually have lot of picture printed out from this milions of posts I've read). Add gmail(dot)com to my forum name ;)

I did not PM builders, as I did not felt comfortable directly harassing them, by non-customer (little chance of serious business from me), to give up trade secrets. I hoped that if one of them will decide to share some of it, he will reply or maybe PM me.

BTW Is there easy way to check if I have standard or heavy recoil spring? I mean without removing it.

Edited by Montrala
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So I went to shoot it a little. I shot it with Mesa Urbino (pistol grip) stock with Limbsaver that I cannibalized from my Supernova. No other changes. Well lubed:

1. Fiocchi 12/70 (2 3/4") 34g (1.2 oz) nr 3 - 50 rounds - flawless

2. B&P Competition 12/70 (2 3/4") 24g (0.84 oz) nr 7 1/2 - 25 rounds - one FTF when I did not strongly shoulder, second was FTE when I deliberately shot without shouldering at all

3. FAM Practical Short 12/63.5 (2 1/2") 32g (1.12 oz) nr 4 25 rounds - this ammo is extra short, 2" each shell (shorter than S&B Practical). I had one FTF where shell was slammed against right side of barrel and jammed.

4. FAM Practical Slug Short 12/63.5 (2 1/2") 28g (1.12 oz) low recoil slug - I shot 8 of it, and had 8 failures to cycle (FTE mostly). It is a pity because those are very nice slugs.

Now I know, that I can have 24gr (7/8oz) working even with pistol grip stock (of course must test more to make sure), but I have problem with slugs. They sell Brenneke K.O. slugs here in 12/60 (2.36") and 12/67 (2.63") both in 28.4g (1 oz). Would those be good for my M1?

Edited by Montrala
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If it was a stock Benelli, it has has regular strength recoil spring. Sometimes-"sometimes"- you can use a reduced power hammer spring, which will make the bolt slide back and cock the hammer with less force needed. Those slugs seems little short. If you can get 2 3/4" slugs -1oz- with low brass, you will have better results. Or if you can get 5/8 oz frangible slugs in high velocity-1600-1800 ft/s, you will have better results. What is the longest stage in shotgun in your region? Unless you are going to very high round counts-30-32 shells or slugs, the tube loaders are not much faster in most people's hands. Add you would be better off weak hand loading, even in Open. With a pistol grip it is hard to turn the gun up ward to see the loading port- maybe try the M1 straight stock. The "comfortech" stock is not a great stock. you can open and smooth the loading port yourself-use emery board-nail file- and take off just enough to open and keep from taking too much off. Again I urge you to reconsider the dot site. Those rifle sights on the barrel are the best that Benelli makes and you won't have to change your cheek weld to shoot. If it is hard to load, cut a few coils off the mag spring. Trial and error here also. Have an extra one here on hand. Brownells can export because they pay the ITAR tax. Most dealers can't afford it. Also-oil it liberally and clean it fairly often-after a hundred rounds or so and after a match. Quick cleaning-not a 1/2 day take apart cleaning-you can do that in the winter. DVC.

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If it was a stock Benelli, it has has regular strength recoil spring. Sometimes-"sometimes"- you can use a reduced power hammer spring, which will make the bolt slide back and cock the hammer with less force needed. Those slugs seems little short. If you can get 2 3/4" slugs -1oz- with low brass, you will have better results. Or if you can get 5/8 oz frangible slugs in high velocity-1600-1800 ft/s, you will have better results. What is the longest stage in shotgun in your region? Unless you are going to very high round counts-30-32 shells or slugs, the tube loaders are not much faster in most people's hands. Add you would be better off weak hand loading, even in Open. With a pistol grip it is hard to turn the gun up ward to see the loading port- maybe try the M1 straight stock. The "comfortech" stock is not a great stock. you can open and smooth the loading port yourself-use emery board-nail file- and take off just enough to open and keep from taking too much off. Again I urge you to reconsider the dot site. Those rifle sights on the barrel are the best that Benelli makes and you won't have to change your cheek weld to shoot. If it is hard to load, cut a few coils off the mag spring. Trial and error here also. Have an extra one here on hand. Brownells can export because they pay the ITAR tax. Most dealers can't afford it. Also-oil it liberally and clean it fairly often-after a hundred rounds or so and after a match. Quick cleaning-not a 1/2 day take apart cleaning-you can do that in the winter. DVC.

I will test different kind of ammo available.

We usually do not have stages longer than 20 rounds, but start position is 5 in tube (or magazine) and empty chamber. That mean usually 5-15 rounds need to be loaded. Magazine fed shotguns are not limited in capacity on second mag, so they basically have always only one reload. That is why I want to go with speedloaders. I just tested them today with Arredondo funnel. I barely made them working, not to speak of any "speed loading". There is learning curve there for sure. They do not work with PG stock, not until front-bottom part of pistol grip will be trimmed. They seem also to prefer longer shells over ultra short ones. And I seem some magazine entrance opening is needed in receiver. I will also smooth out loading port edges, by your advice. I think I will use some 250 and 600 sandpaper (or should I go and get those nail emery boards?) to break edges and smooth them out. What do you think?

Those rifle sights are really good. I'm thinking about painting front sight with some contrast color (red or green). If I will mount red dot, it will be in plane with original sights, to keep same cheek weld. Burris Speedbead seem to be only option here. Actually I want to use RDS mostly because we shoot slugs sometime up to 75m, it is easier to zero RDS, than adjust fixed rifle sights (they adjust only for windage).

Loading is not that hard, not by magazine spring resistance. More by shell latch resistance. I'm used to Supernova - it almost suck shells into tube comparing to M1 :)

Thanks for cleaning tips!

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