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Home made Polish Plate Rack


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I've been working on this for several months, off and on, when I could. It took me a while to figure out how everything should work, having never seen one in person. I finished it today, tested it, had some issues, fixed them, now it's ready for clean up and paint.....What do you guys think? The hardest thing to figure out was the clamps to hold the plates...

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Edited by GrumpyOne
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Looks good to me, but I'm not Polish. I have a Polish friend thats very handy, I'll ask him to take a look. How many guys does it take to shoot a Polish plate rack?

Just kidding, I wish I had the skills to make some stuff. I weld like a 3 year old, I'm glad I have friends that can make the targets I ask for. :D

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Alright, paint is done. This one cost around $125 to build. The reason for the weird paint is that the guys at my local range call me evil for some of the targets I bring in, so I thought I'd step it up a notch. With that color scheme, it should be somewhat distracting, along with the spinning....But I did paint the backside of them white, so they can be reversed.

And, this is also my 3,000 post! :surprise:

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Those clamps with the springs take two hands to open, very tough. I test fired it with multiple rounds of 45 acp, 40S&W, 38SPL, hitting the bar, not the plate, to verify that the plates would not come off when spinning, or when the bar was hit. They will pop off with a low hit near the bar with a 38Spl, but just barely.

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Once again thanks for the info.

Where did you get the clamps?

Clamps were home made as well. They started life as a piece of cold rolled 1" x 1/4" flat bar, heated and bent into a "V", and a piece of steel tubing welded into the "V", then a piece of cold rolled round stock through the tubing and welded to the frame. Two holes drilled into the top of the "V", one to attach the springs, the other to put a bolt to help ope the clamp.

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What I want to know is--why is the red claw hammer in almost every pict?

other than that it looks great,good job

That's to remind me of what my wife is going to hit me with if I don't get it out of her parking spot! :roflol:

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Sorry,

I see components of your design that are inherently dangerous...

You are going to get lead flying in directions that you dont intend.

There is a good reason that target manufacturers have the pricing

that they do, some of the price covers their R & D to make their

products safe.

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Sorry,

I see components of your design that are inherently dangerous...

You are going to get lead flying in directions that you dont intend.

There is a good reason that target manufacturers have the pricing

that they do, some of the price covers their R & D to make their

products safe.

If you know of anyway to make lead fly in the direction you want it to after hitting steel, you are the absolute man :roflol: . Perhaps you should check the "Professional" model... :rolleyes:http://nslwelding.com/content/?page=Polish%20Plate%20rack

I'm assuming you will think it's inherently dangerous as well, with all those flat surfaces to sling lead directly back at you... :P

As far as lead flying in directions I don't intend, I don't intend it to come flying straight back at me, therefore that is why there are no flat surfaces facing the shooter.

Shooting steel is dangerous, no matter what the design....

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Thank you, I am the man. I am an industrial designer, with a lot of experience

with target design. In addition, i regularly shoot with folks that have done

studies for the dept of energy's special response team, and have also shot

with many members of that team at our local matches. Those folks cannot

do anything dangerous - which is a wonder that their bean counters even

let them shoot any more.

So, my comments are a summary of personal experience and DOE studies.

Your imitation is going to have lead flying all sorts of

unintended directions, including right back at you.

Flat surfaces do not sling lead back a you, as you allege.

You asked for comments.

If you know of anyway to make lead fly in the direction you want it to after hitting steel, you are the absolute man :roflol: . Perhaps you should check the "Professional" model... :rolleyes:http://nslwelding.com/content/?page=Polish%20Plate%20rack

I'm assuming you will think it's inherently dangerous as well, with all those flat surfaces to sling lead directly back at you... :P

As far as lead flying in directions I don't intend, I don't intend it to come flying straight back at me, therefore that is why there are no flat surfaces facing the shooter.

Shooting steel is dangerous, no matter what the design....

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Thank you, I am the man :roflol: . I am an industrial designer, with a lot of experience

with target design. In addition, i regularly shoot with folks that have done

studies for the dept of energy's special response team, and have also shot

with many members of that team at our local matches. Those folks cannot

do anything dangerous - which is a wonder that their bean counters even

let them shoot any more.

So, my comments are a summary of personal experience and DOE studies.

Your imitation is going to have lead flying all sorts of

unintended directions, including right back at you.

Flat surfaces do not sling lead back a you, as you allege.

You asked for comments.

If you know of anyway to make lead fly in the direction you want it to after hitting steel, you are the absolute man :roflol: . Perhaps you should check the "Professional" model... :rolleyes:http://nslwelding.com/content/?page=Polish%20Plate%20rack

I'm assuming you will think it's inherently dangerous as well, with all those flat surfaces to sling lead directly back at you... :P

As far as lead flying in directions I don't intend, I don't intend it to come flying straight back at me, therefore that is why there are no flat surfaces facing the shooter.

Shooting steel is dangerous, no matter what the design....

Uh, after being hit by many, and I mean many, pieces (and sometimes the entire bullet)of 230 grain FMJ 45 acp, from hittiing flat surfaces and flying back, I beg to differ. Bullets will fly where they want to fly, once they have hit steel. Would you like me to send you a picture of the last 38 special wadcutter that popped me in the chest from 20 yards away when shooting a regular "professional" made 8" plate rack?

If flat metal doesn't sling lead back at you, why wear safety glasses? :roflol:

Shooting steel is dangerous. PERIOD.

And, who do you work for, that designs targets? Can we see some of your work? You are making assumptions that I am NOT a designer, and in fact I am not. I am an engineer. So my comments are from many years of engineering principle and many years of shooting, first hand, not second hand knowledge or assumed knowledge....So there! :P

Edited by GrumpyOne
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Don't you just love when somebody tries to tear apart anything you try to do?

I know the OP asked for comments but a little humility goes a long way. And the PM feature goes even further.

It is obvious that alot of work and thought went into this PPR(polish plate rack). Good work!:cheers:

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That's an impressive amount of work there, Grumpy. I don't see any big issues. The deflection shielding doesn't look any different than that I've seen on other "professionally made" steel targets. The only surfaces perpendicular to the bullet path are the plates themselves and the lip on the beam fronting them. I suppose the lip might get dented up over time, depending on how hard the material is. I don't see any "U" shaped construction that would deflect a riccochet back up range. Looks likely that you'll just get the typical back spatter, which is lessened by hardened targets that won't crater.

My club has a couple Polish racks, and the main differences from yours are that there is a permanently mounted sliding weight mounted on the back side of the beam which can be slid back and forth to balance the beam after set up so it's horizontal and stable at the start, and there's also a locking pin to make it easier to reset the plates.

I like the clamps - that's a pretty clever set up.

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Thank you, I am the man. I am an industrial designer, with a lot of experience

with target design. In addition, i regularly shoot with folks that have done

studies for the dept of energy's special response team, and have also shot

with many members of that team at our local matches. Those folks cannot

do anything dangerous - which is a wonder that their bean counters even

let them shoot any more.

So, my comments are a summary of personal experience and DOE studies.

Your imitation is going to have lead flying all sorts of

unintended directions, including right back at you.

Flat surfaces do not sling lead back a you, as you allege.

You asked for comments.

If you know of anyway to make lead fly in the direction you want it to after hitting steel, you are the absolute man :roflol: . Perhaps you should check the "Professional" model... :rolleyes:http://nslwelding.com/content/?page=Polish%20Plate%20rack

I'm assuming you will think it's inherently dangerous as well, with all those flat surfaces to sling lead directly back at you... :P

As far as lead flying in directions I don't intend, I don't intend it to come flying straight back at me, therefore that is why there are no flat surfaces facing the shooter.

Shooting steel is dangerous, no matter what the design....

Just for giggles....

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That is very cool. Nice job. I've been fooling around with one using spring clamps from Harbor Freight and round plates.

I think I like your idea better. Do you have anything at the bottom (or top, depending) of the plates to keep them straight,

or is just the clamp keeping them in place? The only change I would make is a bigger piece of angle on the front so it would

cover everything and I could weld it from the back. That way the only flat surfaces would be the actual targets. I know from

years of practical experience that there is no such thing as a steel target that will never throw anything back at the shooter.

Thanks for the pictures and ideas.

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While I haven't read any DOE studys on steel rifle or pistol targets, I have built more of them the entire department has. As the steel plates are directly above the angle you will be more likely to have parts "circle" around, flat would have been better.

If you do encounter that problem perhaps you could stand off the targets with 1/4X1" flat strap so a 45 degree diverted bullet cannot hit a plate to make the turn, so to speak. Like this plate rack.

platerack2.jpg

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As the steel plates are directly above the angle you will be more likely to have parts "circle" around, flat would have been better.

If you do encounter that problem perhaps you could stand off the targets with 1/4X1" flat strap so a 45 degree diverted bullet cannot hit a plate to make the turn, so to speak. Like this plate rack.

I like that. Pretty cool.

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Have you match tested it yet? I think we could swing 125$ to get one built up here if its mobile.

Getting match tested tonight....But the next is gonna cost more...I'm out of hard plate...I'm gonna have to buy some now...

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