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Showing results for tags 'springs'.
Found 15 results
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Thinking about trying the TTI Ultimate Spring Pack for Glock with the OEM minus connector in my 34.5. If anyone has any experience with this setup, I'd appreciate hearing any experiences. -
I have a Tanfo Stock II Elite in 9mm I bought from PD earlier this year, and I have struggled with light strikes using factory ammo continuously. I’ve read through those related posts on this forum, repeatedly – but haven’t found a solution for my gun. I’m looking for confirmations on others who are running similar configurations, with *factory ammo* and also soliciting other suggestions (aside from reloading related solutions). I keep a detailed record of my gun, so I’ve tried to summarize my config and what I’ve done to debug this below. First, the gun was purchased NEW from PD earlier this year. I had Joe at PD do the following, before I first received the gun: Tanfoglio Tune: Polishing & Assembly, Barrel Reaming, PD Hammer springs, PD Firing Pin Spring, Reduced Sear & Reduced Trigger return springs Titan Hammer Sear BOLO Interrupter, BOLO pin Firing Pin Safety Block PD Optimized firing pin-extended PD Optimized Aluminum Guide Rod – Hard Anodized Coating EAA Witness Fullsize RP Recoil 9 lb (Wolf 49709) Initially started with PD 14 lb hammer spring Basically from day 1, I was unable to get the gun to fire any factory ammo without light strikes. They were usually in DA pulls, not in SA. At Joe’s recommendation, I bought a wide range of factory ammo and started testing. I tried Winchester white box, Freedom Munitions 147, Blazer Brass 115, Stand 1 Chubbies, Stand 1 full power, etc. I tested them all in DA modes, some failed much more frequently than others, but none of them could get below a 1% failure rate with 150 rounds. The ammo that performed the best, was Freedom Munitions 147gr. Winchester white box was one of the worse ones for me – which confused me since I started hearing people explain that Winchester and Federal primers are “softer” and easier to ignite. Eventually, Joe offered to re-examine the gun, ream the barrel again and look things over. I was also having a problem with failure-to-extracts, which Joe successfully resolved at this point by installing a higher power extractor spring, and doing some additional reaming of the extractor area. After Joe’s 2nd reaming and testing, he suggested we go up to a 15.5lb hammer spring and returned the gun to me. At first the light strikes were infrequent, but they increased as time went by. They also started happening in SA mode instead of just DA. Joe explained that the hammer spring would lose 20% of its power at 5K rounds and continue degrading from there. I attributed the increase FTF with the fact that the hammer spring was at 7K rounds, and I put a new one in. I also installed a fresh PD optimized firing pin spring at this same time – since the original one was close to 10K rounds at this point. My light strikes went up immediately following the install of these 2 new springs! Ever since then, I’ve been trying to resolve these light strikes. I have tried: 4 different firing pins (Henning G5, Xtreme, PD and factory) – with minimal difference I have also now trimmed my PD firing pin spring, removing around 7-8 coils (any further trimming and the spring gets stuck) I removed the firing pin safety block, and found no difference by doing that I also did another test of a wide range of factory ammo, and have started using Winchester “Train” ammo and found it to work better than the other ammo the pencil test, and confirmed the firing pin kicks my pencil a couple feet into the air (a friend who works on CZ’s a lot says mine goes 8-10” higher than his) I clean my gun pretty frequently, at least every 1,200 to 1,500 rounds – but because I’m frequently trying different springs/pins I usually end up cleaning it every 300-800 rounds I don’t use “grease” except a dab on the sear and trigger return springs, everywhere else I use oil. Currently I run my firing pin & fp spring without any oil/lube So, I’d like to hear from those who have a Tanfo Stock II Elite (large frame) 9mm, *especially* those who use factory ammo: What config do you have in your gun, especially hammer spring (brand and strength), firing pin brand & firing pin spring brand What factory ammo do you use, and how often (if at all) do you have light strikes? What is the pull weight of your DA trigger, with whichever hammer springs you use? Do you put any oil on your firing pin or firing pin spring? Again, I don’t have a press and I’m wanting to initially resolve this without going to reloading as a fix. I may go there later, but for now please assume reloading is not an option. Finally - a THANK YOU in advance to any insights / help you might be able to lend.. I am running out of ideas! -
Hello everyone. I am new to competitive shooting and have a question concerning STI mags. I hear the guts of the mags aren't up to par for most shooters and they are changed out. what does everyone use or recomend to change them out to? Currently running STI EDGE and STI EXECUTIVE both in 40cal. Any information would be helpful.
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Hello All, I bought an STI LS9 on GB a few months ago. I want to update the springs in the gun but I haven't found any info on them and STI discontinued them. Any one have some experience with them? Thanks!
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New PSA 16"upper and bolt carrier group,Black Creek Precision lower and PSA /magpul lower parts kit.PSA 32 round Colt pattern magazines.I have loaded 124 grain ball bullets over 4 grains of unique,1.1 "oal to start and am having very mixed results.Case extraction is 100% but I get intermittent double feeding where I'll get one mag that will shoot all 32 rounds and next magazine will give me 2 double feeds in 4 rounds (loaded in same mag).I have tried heavy buffer and standard buffer without difference.I put in material in tube to limit bolt over travel so that bolt locks back just behind bolt stop as suggested by others.I have 10 magazines and have not shot enough to see much difference between them ,all numbered of course.I am going to try some of the other powders that I have on hand (titegroup,bullseye and 231) to see if that will help.I ordered some 115 grain ball bullets to try.The pressure on the primers with the unique load is fine but I really hope that you experienced guys will offer suggestions so that I can have a gun that runs!!!!
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My springs are wearing out fast - anyone else having trouble?
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I've gone through a ton of the Tanfo threads and I see a lot of people upgrading a lot of parts and a lot of polishing. I'm not interested in tearing the gun apart just yet with only 50 factory rounds through it. Very simply, I've worked some test loads today, and just need to know what recoil spring options I should be considering and is there anything that MUST be done in conjunction with a recoil spring change? 9 or 10lb recoil springs seem to be the best bet with my desired 132PF and 124gr projectiles according to most posts. Beyond that, is there anything I really NEED to do? I'd really like to run this thing a few matches before I start dumping more money into it.
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How many out there have experimented with different weighted recoil springs in the M&P? Recently I purchased a 5" Tungsten un-captured guide rod, a 17#, 15#, 13# and an 11# recoil spring to go in the 9L pro (non-ported) and the 9L PC CORE. Went to shoot those tonight and was a little let down that magic didn't happen...not really but was hoping to see some improvements for follow up shots. Here is what I did learn; 9L (non-ported) 11# spring too light 13# spring too light 15# spring worked real nice 17# (factory weight) felt the same but with less muzzle rise, more than likely to do with the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod (58 grams compared to the 25 grams of the factory) Shock Buffer did nothing but mess up the timing and accuracy, probably due to the different stroke of the slide...I will try it again to make sure. 9L CORE (ported) 11# a little too light, felt like it was slamming the slide into the frame too hard. 13# worked good even with the lighter 125PF loads. 15# spring felt good too, worked better with the higher 135PF loads though. The tungsten guide rod...really couldn't tell the difference but I will video soon and see if the difference can be seen in slow motion. Thought this might help somebody thinking on changing stuff up.
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Uninstalled .22 conversion kit on large frame steel 9mm Elite Match. Install and uninstalling smaller spring was easy - getting the old spring back in has been frustrating. Any suggestions for procedure to follow? Part is 18.3 Witness Slide Stop Pin Spring
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I'm considering trying IDPA and I'm learning about my new P320 and was thinking I would be entering Stock Service Pistol (SSP). My P320 is chambered in 40 S&W and I've been learning about creating a load for it with a Power Factor of about 135. It has been suggested that with a 135 Pf i would probably need to change the guide rod and spring from aftermarket supplier and the spring would be of lighter duty. If I were to change to the suggested guide rod and spring would this eliminate me from SSP? I copied this rule from another thread: 8.2.1.3.4. Recoil spring guide rods and dual spring recoil systems made of material that is no heavier than stainless steel. Thanks you,Chris
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M2 ~2,500 rounds on original springs Problem; Lifter intermittently sticking up on the last shot Solution (Hopefully); New Cartridge Drop Lever Spring and Carrier Spring in hand. The Carrier Spring replacement looks straightforward. Question; What is the Cartridge Drop Lever Spring replacement process?
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Is there any source for mag springs for the SR9c? Everywhere I look only entire mag assemblies are offered.
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I cannot seem to find any replacement springs for the mags of my ruger SR9 compact. Does anyone know of a source? I hate to spend the money for complete new mags.
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Hi Folks: I am trying to improve the trigger pull on my 686-8 (frame mounted firing pin) and have tried the Wolff Type 2 main spring. I can not get it to work. I have switched to federal primers, am reseating them, but I keep getting light primer strikes. Sometimes I get a good solid hit on the primer, then sometimes it looks like it is barely dented. This happens reproducibly. I have installed an extended firing pin and reduced weight firing pin spring and the hammer is bobbed. It seems like I can't get 100% unless I am in the 7-9 lb pull range. At the moment I am pretty close to 8 but switched back to the original main spring and backed out the strain screw, which I am not so happy to have to do. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. John
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I replaced my stock (and very worn out) recoil spring with Wolff springs. The package came with extra power striker springs.... What exactly do these do? I've read they reduce lock time, and I have also read they increase trigger pull weight. Are those both correct? I haven't installed them yet, wanted to check it out a bit first. I am going to be doing a trigger job soon, looking for a lighter pull, but if decreasing the lock time is worth it, I can sacrifice a little on trigger weight if lock time is a bigger benefit. Suggestions? Ideas?
