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Showing results for tags 'safety'.
Found 19 results
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I've done pistol and shotshell reloading for years but am new to the rifle side and I have a few questions. I've am starting with 300 BLK (initially subsonic). which I shoot with a semi-automatic rifle. I have loaded 10 rounds to chrono. Shot/chrono'd them. Bigger SD than I would have liked but it's a start. I'll do a ladder test next time and see if I get improvements. I have cut down/resized .223 brass. I am right around 1.358" on most of the brass. I have a LE Wilson case gauge and full-length sizing die. Right now my process is to re-size the brass. Trim to 1.358". Chamfer/deburr. Load. My question is for where I am and what I am doing (300 BLK subsonic) do you think I need to get a comparator and an OAL length gauge? Are those standard tools for rifle? Must haves? I'm not looking for precision right now. Just plinking stuff but I still want to be safe obviously. Eventually I'd like to load other rifle rounds such as .223, .308, .30-06, etc.
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At the 2021 Golden Bullet Championship this Memorial Day weekend we had the following happen: Can you spot the offense and cite the rule number? I share this video at the request of the owner so that other's may learn from his mistake. It took out his whole match and up to that point, he was shooting well.
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I see a large variety of safes on sale. Many people write that these are simple boxes and poorly protect its contents. I want to buy a truly reliable safe for the house to keep valuables and a gun.
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SP01 Shadow, front end of RH safety moves outward as shown in picture. This is happening during DA, particularly when using a reduced power mainspring. When this happens, hammer will not drop. Thumb pressing on LH safety helps, most of the time. Squeezing on RH safety so it stays close to slide always drops the hammer. With stock hammer spring or slightly lighter ones hammer always drop. Any thoughts what's causing this? Wear on the safety or sear cage? Or disconnector? Thanks.
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I followed the instructions on reversing the safety in my 1301, found here: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/195183-reversing-the-safety-on-a-beretta-1301/ While the trigger group was out of the shotgun, the safety worked as designed. After re-inserting it into the frame and installing the cross pin that keeps in place, I am not able to pull the trigger. I pulled and replaced the trigger group several times, with the same results. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
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I got a new MPX carbine for PCC. As is usual the trigger sucked for competition. Replaced with Hiperfire 24C as this was recommended by several other shooters. Kept the stock safety. Installed and ran about 50 rounds with no issues. Shot first match today, ran great the first stage then had an issue during the second. The safety would not disengage. Move to fire and trigger would not move, cycle safety and fired one round, had to cycle safety again. Did this off and on for next two stages then ran great for final stage. Stayed after and ran 100 rounds with no problem. Another shooter with an MPX said his did this and he just replaced the the safety with a Noveske unit. I'm not opposed to changing the safety but would like to understand whats causing the problem. Any insight would be great. Thanks
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I need to replace the ambi thumb safety on Boopsie, a USPSA Single Stack 1911. The old Muschke (spelling?) is wearing loose at the connection. Recommendations? It gets heavy use as I actually am left handed. Needs to remain USPSA SS legal. Thanks!
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Hi, Is there anybody now how to instal Eric grauffel custom extended safety on Tanfoglio extreme 3 .I don't now how to connect other part of safety consider there is no hole in bar,like on my regular safety.Maybe this is not ambidextrous. Thanks
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I see two different single side safeties in the Stoeger Pro Shop. They have the same picture, but one of them says 14.1. I have no idea what that means. The product descriptions are typical vaguery, totally unhelpful. What say you? I have turned my safety on many times by accident, and although it has gotten very rare, it really ruined a classifier recently that was an easy slam dunk for an 80-90% run. It's about time to get rid of the ambi safety on my guns. -
I have a SP01 I got in a trade that has the ambi safety levers. My hand is not large enough to reach it though so I want to put the largest extended safety on it I can while still being legal for IDPA's ESP and USPSA's Limited. I don't know that I'll ever actually shoot it in either I just want to know that I can if I want to. First question what safety is that? Second question how hard is it to install? Will there be any "fitting" required?
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I have a Rock Island double stack .40 1911. The pistol seems based on the Para design. Issue. I am left handed. The ambidextrous safety (right side) digs in to the base of my thumb in a horribly painful way when fired. I rest my thumb on the safety and that is not going to change. Question. I tried rounding the edges of the safety to no avail. Have there been others with a similar complaint and how was it remedied? what is the least costly method to safety selection? There are so many ambi safeties in the market and I would like something aling the lines of the extended thumb safety I purchased for my CZ TS .40. it was wide and arched making it both a safety and thumb rest. Can someone recommend a large 1911 ambi thumb safety. I believe the Para frame design fits a generic 1911 safety. Thoughts? Ideas?
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I have a Stock II that I would like to change the black slide stop out with a silver one and the safety from a Tanfoglio Limited. Is this legal?
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I have a GI 1911. After installing an Ambi Safety, I see that the (1) Grip Safety need to be replaced. Why? Because by resting my left hand thumb on the safety does not pressure the grip safety enough to release the trigger. (2) So, I picked up a Grip Safety with a rise on the end hoping it will be enough to force engagement. This is a fitting job so I was considering sending it out to have done. (3) But, Fitting the Grip Safety impacts the GI style hammer as the hammer spur no longer fits. (4) So I might as well take a look at competition hammers which is an entire process in itself. (5) If a new hammer is to had than the sear engagement will have to be fitted and possibly replaced. My question is that this seem like a lot of changes to get the safety grip to work. While I may want to learn to fit this stuff later, It seems a lot to do first time out the gate. I simply want to use the gun. Is there a definitive NO to disabling the grip Safety by taken metal off the engagement tip of the safety? Or, is pining the best solution and can it be done simply on a drill press? What are your thoughts on this never ending change chain? -
Hello all. I would like to hear from those who currently own, plan to own, or even just contemplating owning a Benelli Vinci or Super Vinci. We are currently developing an extended Bolt Catch, Bolt Handle, and Safety for the Vinci. I know i have heard so many people asking about them and have been seeing more and more of the Vinci models on the racks at matches. I personally shoot a Vinci and am in love. If you fall into one of the categories above please reply with whether or not you would be interested and if one of the three items is more appealing please specify that as well. Thanks!!!! -
All, Looking for the TS extended wide safety that goes on the left side (for a right handed shooter). CZC is out and no timeline when they will come in. I have searched all over and can't find any alternatives. Does anyone know of another place to get it from or if there is an alternate out there? Any help is appreciated!
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Everyone (should) appreciates those who contribute their time and efforts to officiating our USPSA matches. Stepping up to help run a squad and shooters when needed makes our sport work. Same with stage setup and tear down. Shooters on the squad have to help taping, resetting and painting steel and picking up brass after each shooter. I searched a bit before posting this topic and found a few but some were locked. I will NOT re-post the link here, since that is probably why the posts are locked, of a YouTube video showing a stage being shot with a shooter still downrange, pasting targets, unbeknownst to all on the squad. But it made me think about discussing RO and squad responsibilities a bit, in general. Without turning this into an RO course, I just wanted to mention a few issues which continually arise in club matches almost everywhere I shoot. I will list them in no particular order, and certainly not to infer that this is an exhaustive list. All of us can use reminders and maybe this post and thread will help us be better in the future. In addition to all of the other duties and responsibilities of ROs: 1. Confirm the range is clear before issuing a Make Ready command. 2. Use the correct commands. Not the OLD ones or any other versions out there. But the OFFICIAL and ONLY, USPSA range commands. E.g., "Do you understand the course of fire" or "Load and make ready" are NOT proper commands." Or "shooter ready" or "Range is going Hot." Use of these types of "commands" confuses and could create safety issues. 3. ROs should encourage the shooters on the squad to participate in the duties necessary between shooters. If "lazy" squad members put the RO in the position of needing to command and demand help, then same shooters have NO right to act offended. 4. Do NOT issue the "Are you ready" command, until the shooter is apparently ready. This means, the shooter is in the starting position, and perfectly still for at least 1 second. There is always a designated starting position for the shooter. I am not aware of ANY starting position being one in which the shooter has his strong hand on the gun in his holster. This is an experienced shooter's way of demonstrating to the RO that they are NOT yet ready, and are thinking or whatever. Wait until the shooter is in the starting position and has been still for a full second. Otherwise, you are interfering with the shooter, plain and simple and could destroy the shooter's performance. 5. Quick Beeping on the start signal. The rules say the start signal should not be activated except between 1 and 4 seconds after the "standby" command is finished. Trying to fool the shooter in any way is just plain stupid. Follow the rules, and keep it fair with a properly timed, appropriate beep timing. 6. Loaded sight pictures are permitted. So don't interfere with the shooter by saying otherwise when they do this. 7. When the shooter is finished and unloading and showing clear, hold the timer AWAY from the gun, behind the RO's back preferably, so the noise of unloading or dropping the hammer, etc does NOT get picked up by the timer, adding time unfairly to the shooter's stage time before it is recorded. A good practice is for the RO to always LOOK at the time immediately once the shooter appears to be finished, to note the time, in case any extraneous noise is picked up by the timer thereafter, including potentially, shots fired on an adjoining bay too. 8. Along with making sure no persons are down range before giving a Make Ready command, it is also critically important that the ROs confirm all targets have been pasted and steel re-set before proceeding. Failures to do so and resultant re-shoots are ALWAYS 100% avoidable. Bad enough that we have range equipment failures to deal with and falling down poppers, etc due to wind. Do all you can to prevent the AVOIDABLE ones. 9. ROs are there, literally, to SERVE the shooters, and that capacity in tandem with the SAFETY duties of an RO should always be foremost in the ROs mind. Chatting unnecessarily with a shooter when he is making ready, is very poor form. The shooter has been working in support of the squad on the stage for perhaps an hour or more, waiting for their own chance to shoot for their 15 or 20 seconds - and when on the line, they deserve the oppty to concentrate and focus on their game and performance, and not be distracted or interfered with in any way avoidable, which include RO talk outside of the Range Commands or loud shooters too near the Shooter at the line. Plenty of time for chatting when the "range is clear" command has been given and the time properly recorded. Ok, there are a few of my typical issues I observe at matches. Which ones have I not mentioned here. Thanks Rob
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So a couple of guys showed up late to our local "Twilight" match last night and I was SO'ing on stage 2. The long and short of it is that I let the first guy run the CoF with his eye protection still on his hat and not on his face. He gets a PE for it and I just feel like an ass! I feel like I should be the one to get the PE and not him. Shouldn't there be some kind of penalty for SO's that screw up like this?? I apologized to him and shook his hand. Said I'm glad he still has both his eyes... But I can't stop thinking about it...
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I've been looking for new outdoor ranges to shoot at in the metro Atlanta, GA, area recently. I went to South River Gun Club but decided I didn't want a $500 membership to go a few times a year. Down the road aways is the Clybel Shooting Range within the Charlie Elliot Wildlife Center, a Georgia WMA, and it's the scariest range I've ever been to. It was my first time so the RO gave me the range rules briefing, and then he said, "and when you want to check your target, just holler out for a cold line because if you don't some people will just shoot for hours." That's right, the shooters call for hot and cold lines at a 10-stall, 100-yard rifle range, and one RO floats between two nearby ranges. It was as scary as it sounds. Shooters handled their guns, fiddled with their scopes, oiled actions, cleared chambers and even did practice draws while down range other shooters reset their targets. When everyone is back behind the firing line, anyone can shout for a hot line and they tear into it. I'm never going back there again. Too many idiots and not enough supervision. -
This is a parts gun that I have been working of for awhile now, I had done some work to the feed ramps to make it fed better, worked well. I didn't care for the old style narrow grip safety and decided to get a beavertail grip, I did the fitting myself and found that I may have order the wrong grip safety. There is a noticeable gap in the frame and the safety, is this typical on GI Framed 1911s? It doesn't seem to bother my hand any when holding it, but it sure does look like ... you get the idea. The gap in the frame was there before started this project, is that normal? this is a cheap Interarms frame, there are so many machine marks through out, a lot of time was spent smoothing internal burs that seemed to catch on every moving part. I just want to know if this looks like a decent job, I got to get it refinished and that was all part of the project from the beginning, but I'd like to get some other 1911 owners input on how it looks so far, this is my first time doing anything gun-smithing, other than a trigger job, which is a lot easier than fitting the either safety and then blending any of it in.
