Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'reload'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Visitors & New Member Info
    • Announcements
    • Report Bugs or Feedback
    • Technical & Mental FAQs
    • Last Shot Fired
    • Injured Reserve List
  • BEginners
    • Introduce Yourself
    • Miscellaneous BEginners
  • Shooting
    • Handgun Techniques
    • Stage Comments or Questions
    • Training Techniques
    • Tips for Improvement
    • Skills
    • Mental Conditioning
    • Zen
    • Little things I've Noticed
    • Match Screw-ups
  • Technical
    • 1911-style Pistols
    • Factory Pistols
    • Open Pistols
    • Pistol Caliber Carbine
    • Gear & Accessories
    • General Reloading
    • Gun Springs
    • General Gunsmithing
  • Shooting Sports & Travel
    • Travel, Locations, Ranges, etc.
    • Match Announcements - Pistol Only - USPSA, IPSC & Misc.
    • USPSA/IPSC Shooting
    • USPSA/IPSC Rules
    • Revolver Forum
    • IDPA Shooting
    • Other Shooting Sports
    • USPSA Classifier Scores
    • Clays
  • Multi-Gun
    • Multi-Gun, Rifle & Shotgun Match Announcements
    • Multi-gun Rules / Stage Design / Match Administration
    • Rifle - Technical
    • Shotgun - Technical
    • Rifle & Shotgun - Technique
    • Multi-gun Gear & Accessories
    • Precision Rifle
    • Pistol Caliber Carbine
  • Match Management
    • Pre-match
    • Operations
    • General Match Issues
  • Miscellaneous
    • BE's Vendor Tents
    • Books, Movies, TV & Music
    • What I Like
    • What I Hate
    • Miscellaneous Topics That Do Not Fit in Any Other Forum
    • Firearms Law / Announcements
    • Quotes and Words
    • Humor
    • Recommended Resources
    • Member of the Month
    • Hell, I Was There
    • The Gallery
    • Computers, Cameras, and Electronic Devices of Any Kind

Product Groups

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Real Name

Found 14 results

  1. As of right now. Little expensive but there are there. Guess it's all relative at this point. No bulk discounts. Precision Delta Edit: sorry, guess I could have added this to the recent bullet order thread.
  2. *Found a formula error and fixed Reloading Cost-2020.xlsxSo, I first made this spreadsheet back in the mid 2000's when I started reloading. I've been on a layover for the past 4 days so I decided to update it and see what's changed in the decade and half plus since I first made it. I updated it a little when the great ammo/reloading supply shortage of the mid 2000's hit, but haven't touched it since. I figured I might as well share it with others as well. I've seen several threads along the lines of "Is reloading worth it", "what's reloading cost", etc, etc over the years, so I figured this would be a great tool for someone getting into it to figure out their upfront and long term costs. Or for that matter, anyone interested in how much they are saving...or not saving...by reloading. My quick take away is, with the increase in cost of components and the drastic drop in ammo prices, you have to reload A LOT to see any substantial savings. I love the process of reloading in general, but if I were getting into it today I'd have to think long and hard about it. I'd probably still do it, because for me it's not just the cost savings, but the freedom that it brings. Not to mention the ammo that's prefect for each and every firearm I own. And one of the biggest issues for me is you never know when the next "crunch" is gonna hit. I started reloading before the last Big Crunch hit, and one of the main reasons I did it was because I just had a feeling something was on the horizon and I wanted to make sure I had ammo when I wanted it. Not just when it was available. Anyway, I tried to updated to the spreadsheet to make it understandable to look it and figure out what the data was telling them, and to be able to change it to suite your specific needs. Obviously it's tailored to my calibers, bullets, primers, powders, etc, but you can change anything you want. It's not a perfect analysis, because there are just so many possible combinations it would take a 100 years and a 100 sheets to account everything. But I feel like it gives a good "rule of thumb" analysis of the cost of reloading. I use FMJ and JHP for almost all my pistol rounds. I found over the years that when you buy in bulk the fractions of a cent you save on lead coated, or plated just aren't worth it to me personally. I use middle of the road bullets for precision rifle work like Sierra or Nosler. And Bulk Horn 55gr FMJBT for AR stuff. I averaged out powder per round based on common charge weights for a given caliber. I think most things are self explanatory, but I also put a lot of notes to clarify what things I was using and what my line of though was. I'm sure I left some details out. If you have any questions, just ask. The first section is a cost per round break down for common combinations. Second section is cost per round break down of common equivalent factory loadings. Next section is the percentage savings (or lack there of) for reloading over factory ammo. Last section is a place for someone to put the cost of reloading equipment and then figure out how many rounds it will take to break even in terms of yers. I averaged the cost per round for this section based on just high/low average. Obviously the more expensive your factory ammo is, the more you are likely to save reloading. In this section you input the number of rounds you expect to shoot a month, and based on your overhead cost and cost per round it will tell you how long it will take to break even shooting that many rounds per month. Again, it's not perfect, so please I beg you don't remind me. But it will give you better than a rough estimate. I am working on a Mac so it was originally in Numbers, but I have exported it as a xls spreadsheet for the Windows users. There might be some "translation" issue between the two the formats. I have also loaded the Numbers version. If you have an issue, maybe try and open the Numbers version in Excel and let it do the translation to see if that helps. I appreciate all the help I have received over the years here, and I hope this helps someone else. Lastly my suggestion would be do download a copy and duplicate the downloaded copy to make changes too. That way if you mess something up you can always go back to the original and copy it again. 169592097_ReloadingCost-2020.numbers Reloading Cost-2020.xlsx
  3. I had a request for a single caliber version so here it is. You can just swap out the number in the 1 remaining field for whatever you want to find cost to reloading that single caliber. FYI, it was easy to edit the original, just delated all the fields for calibers I didn't want, and the only formula I had to fix was the Avg cost per round at the bottom. I went to just add this to the original post, but there didn't seem to be a way to edit the post any longer. Can you only edit a post for a defined period of time? ReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.xlsxReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.numbers
  4. I always compete from AIWB and have a crazy dream of making a GM with that (currently A-class). On my favourite practice drill - El Pres - it adds quite a lot of time. So I have to have good draw and reload. So far the only thing I'm missing to make hundo on El Pres is accuracy - my reloads and draws got good enough for sub-5 runs. In this video made for r/CCW (still trying to get CCW community to shoot USPSA ) - I explain my technique. Hope it helps someone here as well. Next video is probably going to be either about my full technique for El Pres, or fitness/conditioning I use to improve my recoil control and accuracy.
  5. I have cleaned up some things in my reloads to gain .40 seconds in live fire (yes, it was bad). Basically brought the gun down just enough to see the magwell while the fiber is still on the target (so I can get back to it the moment I turn the gun) and speed up the hand to get to the mag and shoot sooner rather than dwell on the target. What more can I do? The par timer at the video is set at 1.5 secs. I want to get it down another .30 seconds if I can. I realize if I want to move from "C" to "B" i need faster reloads.
  6. [TL/DR: table at bottom] I just installed the last two accessories on my Dillon 650 and I think I’m pretty much good to go after 6 months of reloading. This forum was very helpful for me as a new reloaded so I thought I’d share this info for people trying to get into it....just saw one such inquiry minutes ago. This list is grouped by level of need and then most to least expensive...highly subjective I know. It’s just one man’s opinion! If you buy the green items labeled “Base Machine” you can load ammunition if you acquire components (powder, primers and brass). It might be slow going and unsafe but you could make a round of ammunition. I would call the blue additions “necessities” either for safety or logistical reasons. Yelow are highly recommended “priority upgrades” that we can debate & add to here. Orange entires are creature comforts and case prep items to re-use brass and save more money. Also for those suffering from sticker shock, the “rounds to cover” is a hypothetical payback assuming you can save about $.115 per round. I load 40, so YMMV. Tell your wife you will reload an obscure cartridge and save 70% per round.
  7. Does anyone have a picture of a 9mm major primer should look like after its fired? I have a little flatness to my primers but I'm at 8.3 grains of hs-6, OAL 1.155, 115 JHP V2s Everglades ammo. I'm shooting out of my brand new Trubor. I'm getting about 175 PF. Is this a sign of too high of pressure? My brass still fits into a case gauge after it's been fired so no bulging has occurred in the brass.
  8. Any reloaders use range brass to reload 9mm Major? or do you buy from a distributor?
  9. Dumb green horn question. I am looking to use my 617, if by chance I do not empty the cylindar what is the correct way to empty the chamber of live rounds and spent brass and keep everyone happy between strings? Do you bring a shooting mat or bag to collect the unfired rounds?
  10. I have loaded many 10Ks of 9mm for my 1911s but before I try to find what works best in my new DVC limited 9, I thought I would ask whether anyone has any guidance on what generally works best as a starting point. Basically my question is whether there is anything special about the STI 2011s (this is a 5" titanium nitrided barrel) that I should be aware of. Also, how many rounds should I put through it before I trust my experiments on what works? (I figure it will loosen up or smooth out just a bit as I start shooting it) Some questions running through my mind: What range of power factors will cycle with the standard spring? What overall length feeds best? And what range should I stay within? Does it get pickier with lower power factor? What bullet shape feeds best? Probably round nose/ball but I thought I'd ask just in case. Does lead vs. plated vs coated vs FMJ matter to the cycling or to the barrel? Do some bullet weights work better than others in the 115-147 gr range? The answer may just be - it's just a 9 like every other one, so shoot whatever you like and find that works, but I have heard at least that they are sensitive to OAL so in the interest of saving time and components finding my load, please share what you know about loading for these. Thanks! Jim
  11. Here is the problem, I am using N320 with 124 gr FMJ. The gun is an M&p Pro. c.o.l = 29.05 mm N320 = 3.8 gr The bullets are crimped well enough however the gun is not cycling, most of the cases end up stove piping or remaining attached to the ejector and being put back into battery again. Basic problem is there is not enough force to cycle the gun properly, please help me solve this, i do not think more powder is the solution. Someone suggested shortening the rounds however i do not know by how much. is 1mm too much? Too little? is this even the solution? Please help
  12. When I started reloading I didn't know what to do, so I got in good with someone who did. Bayou 147 grain flatpoint 3.0 grains of Titegroup Loaded to 1.14 OAL Range brass Winchester primers Last year I was shooting a Glock and this load was fine (soft and accurate) but next year I'm buying a 2011. I plan to test my existing load first but what are other 2011 shooters doing? Moly bullets? Jacketed bullets? Specific powder? OAL lengths? (I plan to do some actual testing in the spring too but like to have the discussion in the meantime)
  13. I always see postings and am amazed over how many hundreds of rounds per hour people pump out of their presses. Well, I must be a real slow poke as I generally only run 150-200 rounds/hour (pistol) using my LNL with case & bullet feeder. Why so slow? Well, I include the time it takes to load primer tubes, verify (at least 10 times and then spot check every time I load a new primer tube) charge weights, clean the press (compressed air) every 300 rounds or so, case gauge check every round, dump unused powder back into the container & clean the press & dies and any spilled powder/sweep the floor. I also include in my time the occasional need to pull a bullet or clean the press due to a bad charge or crushed case. So, I don't even include any brass prep time (cleaning, lubing & dumping into case feeder). Generally speaking I will reload 800-1,000 in a day with breaks for lunch & coffee (I don't include the breaks in my time calculations). I know I could go a little faster but there is no way that I could do all of the above and hit 500+ rounds/hour. So...how fast do you really go and if you're really getting 500+ rounds/hour what aren't you including in your average? Or, better yet, how can I go faster?
  14. Greetings from Yuma. Ive been looking all over for some reloading questions. Quick info, my loving wife brought home a Glock 22 in December and I loved it so I got a Glock 35. We have gone crazy these last few months and we had decided to start reloading (how I found the forum). This weekend our Dillon 550 showed up so I'm ready to start. While waiting the 8 weeks for our press and dies to arrive we purchased all we could find for reloading .40. These items wouldn't have been my first choice, but right now, this was about my only choice of components. I was able to get: 2000 CCI small pistol primers 5000 Remington small pistol primers 2000 Bear Creek 180gr flat nose molly coated bullets 8 pounds of Longshot powder We purchased the Hornady book and wrote every powder they listed for the 180 grain, and Longshot was the only one I could get my hands on during these scarce times. My 'source' told me that I could use the same numbers as the 180 gr FMJ bullets with the lead ones. I haven't been able to verify this. Is this right? I loaded 20 rounds with 52.3 grains of powder and they fit in the case checker just fine. In the manual it was supposed to give you 950fps, and was second to lowest load. I haven't shot them yet. Does anyone have any experience with this combo? Does it sound like a good starting point? Should I toss these 20 rounds and start over with another setup? My wife and I mainly shoot in an indoor range, and outside at steel targets. Any input would be greatly appreciated. When this drought ends I will get some FMJ and different powder, just to try. Another question is the dreaded Glock and molly coated lead bullets combo. I have read and know guys who have had good luck with the Bear Creek in their Glocks, as long as they clean the barrels after shooting. I at least want to try it out while I'm waiting for our aftermarket barrels to show up. Again, thanks for any advise in advance. I'm a lucky man to have a wife who sports a Glock sticker on her SUV, but the cost of ammo is getting out of hand when she has a 500 rounds per week habit.
×
×
  • Create New...