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Found 15 results

  1. I'm wondering what your guy's opinion is on the schools of thought behind this. As far as Inward Should Pressure goes, specifically what I'm talking about, is in addition to canting and locking your left wrist, and clamping hard with your support hand, you clamp your hands inward (Hold your hands out where your gun would be, but hold them together as if you were clapping. Now try to push them together as much as possible, this is the pressure I'm talking about). The only shooter I've found who mentions this mentality when gripping the gun is Bob Vogel. (Multiple videos of him mentioning this specifically, here's one link: https://youtu.be/688tyvWxaYg?t=207) I feel that when I've implemented this, and I'm actively thinking about gripping the gun like this, my groups get better, period. feels like the gun comes back to zero more consistently and faster than if I wasn't. And my splits also seem to improve a tad. The counter to this, Is that very often, I hear a lot of top shooters talk about everything being relatively relaxed while shooting other than your wrist+grip (shoulders relaxed, arms and elbows bent and not completely stiff, etc.) The specific instance I'm thinking of is in Ben Stoeger's "Breakthrough Marksmanship", where he is talking about general tension when shooting, but I know I've heard it in a myriad of other places and videos. The usual reasoning behind wanting the tension in your body to be more or less loose is for smooth transitions, and more specifically not driving the gun too hard/over transitioning. Which I have noticed is the case sometimes when I'm gripping the gun like this because, instead of driving the gun to the next target with the correct amount of force, the tendency is to use my whole body to over drive the gun because my shoulders are forward and relatively stiff, elbows, while not locked to still have some suspension for recoil, are decently tight and forward, so I over transition sometimes. Are these things not actually contradictory and I'm thinking about this wrong?... Is one consistently better and one worse?... Is it all personal Preference?... Just Suck Less?... Let me know what you guys use and your thoughts, thanks! Also first time post, be gentle.
  2. For those of you who use a Mantisx for your live fire, what kind of numbers are you throwing up for the recoilmeter? I'm trying to find a goal to aim for (no pun intended) much like the par times in Ben Stoeger's dry fire program, but haven't found any out there. If you train with a mantisx, use its recoilmeter, and are willing to share your numbers, I'd love to hear what you're putting up for recovery time, muzzle rise, recoil width, and recoil angle. I'm shooting a CZ Shadow 2 using Federal 147 ammo. Thanks in advance. Jeff
  3. So... got a bunch of stuff from Ben Stoeger for my new Stock 2. Amongst which was a 9# wolff recoil spring. Got the standard full slide version. And when this recoil spring is in the gun the rounds won't go into battery. Slide just won't close completely. Switch back to the stock spring and closes up just fine. It's like 2 or 3 coils longer than the stock spring and my understanding is it's SUPPOSED to be that way(?). I'm tempted to cut it tho and see if that fixes the problem. Should I snip snip or try to send it back to Ben?
  4. I'm currently at a block in my shooting, caused by an inability to have the sights return to target automatically after recoil without any input from myself. This is crucial to shooting good split times. When I shoot, the gun usually ends up tilted upwards slightly. I use a standard thumbs forwards grip. My grip strength is pretty weak, I struggle to close a #1 CoC gripper, and that's something I'm working on. However, to my knowledge, having the gun recoil back on target has little to do with the strength of the grip, but rather how the gun is gripped. I use a CZ Shadow, which is a pretty big gun. I recently acquired a Sig P210 which is a bit smaller, and found the recoil more consistent on that. My hands aren't exactly small, so I don't think it's a physical limitation. Does anyone have any suggestions or idea as to what I'm doing wrong?
  5. Someone in r/CCW was having issues with their grip & recoil control so I made this video to help people, who may have more issues with that, than me currently. I've actually had only 2 live fire practice sessions, that focused on the grip and allowed me to improve the recoil control. So if anything is incredibly stupid in this vid - I would be glad to eat dirt and listen to your advice (don't be fooled by the tone of the video, I only look like a douche, I can listen, I promise, plz bb =) ) Ammo used in live fire is 180gr 1020fps Winchester LEO .40 s&w "purple brass" Handgun: CZ P-09 This was originally posted on reddit, but it's kinda dead there in r/CompetitionShooting and people of different subs I tried to share this and other stuff aren't very interested, so I probably should stick to USPSA forums instead or at least leave this here. Some comments with more advice from reddit users txstgunner & TheHumbleMarksman: For me, it's like holding a bench press bar after you've just lifted off before you start repping, that's what the pressure feels like coming from each hand. You're 100% right on the left hand - really do focus on it until it's subconcious and you don't have to anymore. It helps in transitions as well as helps contain muzzle flip and drift due to bad trigger press. I'd add roll out shoulders so that lats engage. My skin on my hands is total trash from dryfire practice. I developed a bad crack on my right hand middle finger due to the cold dry air we've had this winter. Don't use your support hand thumb to press into the frame with a grip like that, it makes the sights track less consistently.
  6. I am new-ish to the tanfo platform and I am having great success with it. Shot with a Shadow 2 most of this season and I am currently shooting the Tanfo. I was able to put 600 rounds in 3 range visit and I am blown away by the difference in between the two platforms, very happy with the Stock 2. I have purchased a few shock buffers for this pistol, and I tried it with and with out and I could not notice any difference in felt recoil, however, the action becomes stiffer when the buffer is in, like if there was less wiggle room between the barrel and the slide when out of battery and it takes more effort to rack the slide. The gun was used for about 200 rounds with a buffer with no ill effects, however, when operated by hand I can feel it is tighter. Wondering if any of you has any first hand experience with these buffers. I am thinking that they might be a gimmick and might as well keep them out.
  7. I’m a beginner in USPSA Production (3 months into it) and have been seeking ways to achieve more competitive performance from my tools. Felt recoil seems to be the greatest obstacle to split times. Muzzle energy created by the acceleration of the bullet is the positive contributor to felt recoil. There are lots of negative (reducing) contributors: gun weight, recoil spring, gas venting, etc. There is a great thread on modifications for some of those negative contributors here: I decided to take a closer look at muzzle energy (foot pounds of force or Joules) with the hopes to finding a cartridge that has the lowest positive contribution to felt recoil. I only shoot manufacturer ammo (for now) and compared LAX and Freedom Munitions for their various new 9mm cartridges. NOTE --- This comparison is for muzzle velocity only, it does not consider reliability, accuracy, or the conversion to felt recoil for your specific firearm. Also, I’m not a physicist, so hopefully I’m using correct vernacular. SEE ATTACHED SPREADSHEET Results: The lowest muzzle velocity cartridges are the 147 grain options from Freedom at only 264 ft.lbs of force. The 135 grain options from both LAX and Freedom are the next lowest at 288 ft.lbs(f). This is 9% more energy than the lowest option. I’ve been shooting the 115 RN from LAX. It has the lowest power factor, right at the minimum 125 for Production, but is firing with 14% more energy (302 ft.lbs(f)) than the lowest option. Turns out Power Factor and Recoil are only casually related… acquaintances, really. On the spreadsheet, I’ve listed some “Considerations”. Here is their meaning: Weight Soft(er) = Heavier bullets accelerate more slowly through the barrel. It’s milliseconds, but may be enough to slightly dampen felt recoil even further. Velocity Snappy = Lighter bullets accelerate more quickly through the barrel. It’s milliseconds, but may be enough to slightly strengthen felt recoil. NATO Accuracy = The twist rate of many 9mm barrels are designed for a 124 grain projectile. I have some current prices listed, too. This is certainly a strong consideration. I hope some folks find this helpful! I’d be interested in receiving some feedback to my analysis. Is it relevant, sound, and have your experiences matched this theory? My next step is to put these calculations into practice. I’m going to buy a variety of these cartridges and run them through my Glock 17 over the next several weeks. I’ll update this thread with pictures and findings. Recoil Analysis.emf Recoil Analysis - 9mm - LAX vs Freedom.xls
  8. Does frame weight really affect recoil control? I posted this video testing it with my different production guns to see. Maybe results are different with a 40/38sc. What am I missing here? It doesn't seem to, IMO. What are other ways to test it? Testing the difference between a CZ 75B vs. CZ SP01 Shadow Custom vs. CZ AccuShadow
  9. How many out there have experimented with different weighted recoil springs in the M&P? Recently I purchased a 5" Tungsten un-captured guide rod, a 17#, 15#, 13# and an 11# recoil spring to go in the 9L pro (non-ported) and the 9L PC CORE. Went to shoot those tonight and was a little let down that magic didn't happen...not really but was hoping to see some improvements for follow up shots. Here is what I did learn; 9L (non-ported) 11# spring too light 13# spring too light 15# spring worked real nice 17# (factory weight) felt the same but with less muzzle rise, more than likely to do with the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod (58 grams compared to the 25 grams of the factory) Shock Buffer did nothing but mess up the timing and accuracy, probably due to the different stroke of the slide...I will try it again to make sure. 9L CORE (ported) 11# a little too light, felt like it was slamming the slide into the frame too hard. 13# worked good even with the lighter 125PF loads. 15# spring felt good too, worked better with the higher 135PF loads though. The tungsten guide rod...really couldn't tell the difference but I will video soon and see if the difference can be seen in slow motion. Thought this might help somebody thinking on changing stuff up
  10. After experimenting for a while with different lightened BCGs- and buffers, the time has come to the buffer spring. My experience comes from tuning open pistols. In a pistol there is no doubt that a lighter recoil spring helps a lot when it comes to make it shoot softer. This might seem counterintuitive sins a lighter spring will make the pistol open earlier and speed up the slide movement. I think, and many others do too, that the effect comes from the fact that the pistol will close softer and hence make the dot bounce less. Last time when I was on the range I thought about how light the recoil feels when the rifle fires the last round in the magazine and locks the bolt back. The question is can I get some of this effect buy using a lighter buffer spring? What are your experiences?.............and can somebody point me in the right direction? I would be very happy if someone could recommend me a spring or even a spring/buffer weight combination. What are you people using? Thanks J
  11. I shot an informal comparison of 4 limited guns at the range yesterday. I shot a pretty standard load of 180s with WST, recorded it at 240 FPS and slowed it down to 30fps for the YouTube upload. In the stroke thread lots of people said they wanted to shoot 2 identical guns, one stroked, the other not stroked. I essentially did that with two guns that were nearly identical. The guns were was follows, in order of appearance: An Edge style 5" gun built by Will O'Hara. My custom 6" titanium tracker finished by Glenn at Lone Star Innovations. A 5", butler cut sight tracker built by Jimmy Vidanes at 1911 Speed Shop. This gun has a PT steel grip and rear internal lightening. A 5", butler cut, stroked sight tracker built by Shay at Akai Custom Guns. This gun also has a PT steel grip and rear internal lightening. I tried to maintain a neutral grip throughout without clamping hard via support hand, to let the guns lift and return as they want to. You can see this in the magwell approaching my left hand in recoil. I felt gripping it like I would at a match would potentially mask differences in lift. The lift/return as captured on camera may not be conclusive, but behind the gun I definitely could tell a difference in recoil impulse and return. Impressions: The stroked gun produced noticeably the softest recoil impulse. It also cycled more than quickly enough- I was able to run splits down to the .14s on bill drills, which is about all I can reliably control at this point. I really, really, liked the gun. I think some time spent learning the timing could make for a very fast setup. The standard sight tracker was also very controllable, although the recoil impulse was sharper. It was snappier which is more like what I am used to. I liked it. It had the least perceived movement in the front sight to my eyes. My titanium tracker had the sharpest impulse, but being the only bushing barrel and short dust cover gun in the line up I had expected that. It's the "control" in the group, I suppose. I like it a lot. I can comfortably get into the .14s with it on bill drills as well. It was much easier to draw and transition for me, which I would expect being both lighter and what I am accustomed to. I may weld the dust cover back up to tame the lift a bit although the lift doesn't seem to hurt- it doesn't dip much and it is easy to follow the sight. The extremely light slide on this gun cycles more like an open gun than a limited, which I like very much. The Edge was the surprise for me. I'd rank it second softest in the lineup, between the Akai and the 1911 Speed Shop tracker. It had the heaviest slide and the most perceived sight movement. After shooting a tracker for 9 months I wasn't used to the sight reciprocating with the slide. It may be the "flattest" on video, although it is hard to tell without a more rigorous test procedure. The potentially disturbing plot twist? I don't feel like any one gun stood out as the clear winner. If you like soft, go for the stroke. If you like light, the Ti Tracker is an excellent option. The full dust, bull barreled gun has been the choice of most of the Limited champions in recent years. The standard tracker cycled quick, was still plenty soft, and was easy to track the sight. The more I shoot, the more I realize the inevitable conclusion of, "pick one and practice". You can select a gun that plays to your strengths, or mitigates your weaknesses, but at the end of the day its going to be how quickly you can acquire and fire acceptable sight pictures.
  12. My search ability is failing me, I'm sure this is somewhere but I can find it. I want to build a rig to test spring recoil weights for Glocks and M&P but need to know what lengths they need to be tested at. Thanks in advance for the help y'all.
  13. How many out there have experimented with different weighted recoil springs in the M&P? Recently I purchased a 5" Tungsten un-captured guide rod, a 17#, 15#, 13# and an 11# recoil spring to go in the 9L pro (non-ported) and the 9L PC CORE. Went to shoot those tonight and was a little let down that magic didn't happen...not really but was hoping to see some improvements for follow up shots. Here is what I did learn; 9L (non-ported) 11# spring too light 13# spring too light 15# spring worked real nice 17# (factory weight) felt the same but with less muzzle rise, more than likely to do with the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod (58 grams compared to the 25 grams of the factory) Shock Buffer did nothing but mess up the timing and accuracy, probably due to the different stroke of the slide...I will try it again to make sure. 9L CORE (ported) 11# a little too light, felt like it was slamming the slide into the frame too hard. 13# worked good even with the lighter 125PF loads. 15# spring felt good too, worked better with the higher 135PF loads though. The tungsten guide rod...really couldn't tell the difference but I will video soon and see if the difference can be seen in slow motion. Thought this might help somebody thinking on changing stuff up.
  14. I am trying to develop some reduced recoil loads for 3 gun. Unfortunately it’s still hard to come buy some of the more popular pistol powders so my selection is limited. I have on hand Silhouette, Accurate No. 5, Power Pistol, and CFE Pistol. I would love to find some NV320 or 231. I am using 180 JHP Montana gold bullets. Looking through several different loading manuals all of the minimum loads are still close to major PF velocities. I see several threads on here where people are loading up to 1 grain under the minimum recommended level. Is this safe? Can i start a minimum and back it of .1 to .2 grains and see where that puts me for PF and reliability. My goal is to get closer to minor PF but I would be happy with a power factor around 150 and good accuracy. I found one thread on CFE Pistol, Hodgdon list min at 5.9 for 180 JHP and he had loaded it down the 5.1, AVG 877 PF 158, with 180 HP. What is the general consensus on loading below the minimum recommended charge levels? What’s the safe way to do it, if it is safe?
  15. Hi everyone, I’m a newbie here but have been lurking on the forum for a few months trying to gather tips whenever, wherever I can. I just finished Brian’s book and to say I am inspired would be a tremendous understatement. Who would have thought the concepts, ideas and strategies he thought up 20+ years ago would still be just as relevant as they are today! (Thank you again, Brian) So on to my latest road block - Shooting groups from 18-25+ yards-freehand(I mean standing with both hands).Before you all beat me up too bad - I am following the steps as have been outlined by the master - started out shooting at nothing at all, just the berm. Got comfortable enough to "see" what I needed to see when I needed to see it given the circumstance (shooting at a berm with no target) and felt it was time to move on to bench rest shooting. I stayed on that damn bench until I could get my 2.5-3" groups at 20-25Yds consistently with little or no flyers on most given days. Relying on mechanics, eyes open, calling the shot as best I could see it, following through- everything was working well from the bench. So I moved on...I went in steps- started at 5 yards, moved to 10 then on to 15 and after that is where things started to change...Drastically. I observed that at about 18-20+ yards my fundamentals begin to deteriorate rapidly. I am overcome by "thought" rather than "action" - immediately I am doing mental checks on ALL my fundamentals - stance, grip, pressures, relaxed stomach, FRONT SIGHT, EYES OPEN, trigger, call the shot - EVERYTHING! And its during that time my form just goes to complete shit. I’m anticipating the shot/recoil, losing the front sight, incorrectly calling my shots; it’s just the worst feeling ever. So my remedy when this is happening is to first observe that it is happening and go back to what’s comfortable and easy (I know what a puss) moving it back to 7 yards, 10 yards 15 yards and guess what - as soon as work back up to the 20-25 yard range - it’s the same problem! It’s almost like at that distance (20-25 yds.) my mind flips this anxiety/doubt switch that on some days it literally seems impossible to overcome so i resort back to bench resting, or moving back to 10-15 yards and usually end up leaving the range feeling very unaccomplished and pretty bummed out... Sorry for the rant! Please know I am not looking for that "one special answer" I was really hoping just to get your guys opinions, possibly some tips and maybe some shared similar experiences if at all applicable or relevant to my situation. Thank you everyone in advance for taking the time to read and/or respond all input is much appreciated! Make it a great day everyone!! -Chase M.
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