Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'guide rod'.
Found 11 results
-
I just got a rimfire Beretta, 92FSR, and for fun, I'm seeing what other real steel Beretta parts will fit on it to improve it. It is said to be a full size replica of the 92, and I've already put a "D" main spring in it, and put some aftermarket G10 grips on it. My rimfire one has a captured guide rod/recoil spring, and the 92A1 and m9A1 have one that looks very similar, before I spend the money on one, I was hoping someone out there with either of these guns could go and measure the diameter where the spring rides and the head diameter that seats in the frame against the take down lever. Aftermarket steel captured guide rod for the 92A1 I'm hoping to try out in my rimfire gun: Thanks, -Eli
.jpg.5b1753e748accdd77eaf199b42aa69b1.jpg)
-
i recently bought a smith & wesson sd40 ve and did not really like the plastic guide rod, i have always had metal guide rods before so i purchased a aftermarket stainless steel quide rod with 15lb recoil spring. i know the oem spring is 18lbs but i figured if i used a lower grain rd like a wwb 165gr fmj it may lessen the recoil and get back on target by cycling faster. am i correct in my assumptions? if not what ammo do you think i should use with that setup? or should i just switch the oem spring onto the steel rod?
-
I recently installed a stainless steel guide rod in my G23 and the point of impact is now 5-6 inches low. Has anyone else encountered this? And what can I do to fix it. Other than that the gun runs great.
-
Folks, I recently decided to install Bruce Gray's spring pack, trigger, and guide rod into my IDPA gun, a Sig 226 Scorpion. First off-Mods, if this belongs in gunsmithing, please move to the appropriate forum. Second-if you attempt this, you assume all liability for work done. Always ensure your firearms are unloaded before attempting any work. This is not meant to be a step by step guide, merely a review with some observations as I conducted the work myself. This gun has an untold number of rounds through it. I had originally anticipated sending it to Bruce Gray, who performed his work on my X5 Allround (which I cannot say enough good things about). Bruce is a gentleman and passionate about the Sig handgun series, and he will shortly be getting my second X5 for work. I decided that for a regular factory gun that I don't use as often, I would attempt to clean it up myself. That said, I HIGHLY recommend getting the OPSPEC DVD on the Sig P-Series that features-you guessed it-Bruce Gray, taking you step by step and piece by piece through every variation of the Sig lineup. It also goes over tools needed or recommended, has an annex on recoil spring weights, and a great number of other useful bits of information. So, with DVD and parts in hand, I began.
-
How many out there have experimented with different weighted recoil springs in the M&P? Recently I purchased a 5" Tungsten un-captured guide rod, a 17#, 15#, 13# and an 11# recoil spring to go in the 9L pro (non-ported) and the 9L PC CORE. Went to shoot those tonight and was a little let down that magic didn't happen...not really but was hoping to see some improvements for follow up shots. Here is what I did learn; 9L (non-ported) 11# spring too light 13# spring too light 15# spring worked real nice 17# (factory weight) felt the same but with less muzzle rise, more than likely to do with the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod (58 grams compared to the 25 grams of the factory) Shock Buffer did nothing but mess up the timing and accuracy, probably due to the different stroke of the slide...I will try it again to make sure. 9L CORE (ported) 11# a little too light, felt like it was slamming the slide into the frame too hard. 13# worked good even with the lighter 125PF loads. 15# spring felt good too, worked better with the higher 135PF loads though. The tungsten guide rod...really couldn't tell the difference but I will video soon and see if the difference can be seen in slow motion. Thought this might help somebody thinking on changing stuff up
-
My 1911 Para 16-40 has a bull-barrel and reverse full-length guide rod plug. It keeps beating up guide rod plugs. It starts with peening the lip of the plug, progresses to the point where the tunnel goes out of round, and binds with the recoil spring. Left long enough, the plug splits along it's length. I am on my 4th plug. I had the slide mating-surface milled square, as the peening always happens on the same side, but it keeps re-occurring. I have also tried filing the mating surfaces of the slide to remove rough edges. I'm not sure it is due to sloppy assembly after field-stripping, or the plug twists as the gun cycles. See attached photos. Any one else seen this? David
-
Installing a Guide Rod Spring onto a Guide Rod. What a chore . Was following what was posted at Youtube, on how to install a Guide Rod Spring onto a Guide Rod. What a workout. Never did get this thing installed. Did launch the spring across the room once..lol. This is a Glock 22 slide, Wolff Uncaptured Guide Rod, Gen3 to Gen4 Rod Adapter and Wolff Round Wound Springs. So I used a simple crimping tool, compress the spring and grab the end of the rod and insert into Guide Rod Adapter (don't let go and hold tight). I compress the spring by hand and not with the tool. Once the spring is low enough, I then reach for the tool and then grab the rod. Works every time, no mess, no fuss. I used a smooth style crimping tool, as not to leave marks on the guide rod. I wouldn't use pliers that would mark up the rod. Last thing you need is the guide rod marked up and the spring catching. Keep the guide rod clean and unscathed. Hope this helps and this is also the right place to post this. Cheers, Lastcat.
-
How many out there have experimented with different weighted recoil springs in the M&P? Recently I purchased a 5" Tungsten un-captured guide rod, a 17#, 15#, 13# and an 11# recoil spring to go in the 9L pro (non-ported) and the 9L PC CORE. Went to shoot those tonight and was a little let down that magic didn't happen...not really but was hoping to see some improvements for follow up shots. Here is what I did learn; 9L (non-ported) 11# spring too light 13# spring too light 15# spring worked real nice 17# (factory weight) felt the same but with less muzzle rise, more than likely to do with the extra weight of the tungsten guide rod (58 grams compared to the 25 grams of the factory) Shock Buffer did nothing but mess up the timing and accuracy, probably due to the different stroke of the slide...I will try it again to make sure. 9L CORE (ported) 11# a little too light, felt like it was slamming the slide into the frame too hard. 13# worked good even with the lighter 125PF loads. 15# spring felt good too, worked better with the higher 135PF loads though. The tungsten guide rod...really couldn't tell the difference but I will video soon and see if the difference can be seen in slow motion. Thought this might help somebody thinking on changing stuff up.
-
I'm considering trying IDPA and I'm learning about my new P320 and was thinking I would be entering Stock Service Pistol (SSP). My P320 is chambered in 40 S&W and I've been learning about creating a load for it with a Power Factor of about 135. It has been suggested that with a 135 Pf i would probably need to change the guide rod and spring from aftermarket supplier and the spring would be of lighter duty. If I were to change to the suggested guide rod and spring would this eliminate me from SSP? I copied this rule from another thread: 8.2.1.3.4. Recoil spring guide rods and dual spring recoil systems made of material that is no heavier than stainless steel. Thanks you,Chris
-
Hi all, With the wealth of knowledge on this forum, I am sure someone can answer this question. I want to add a full length guide rod to my 75B which would require drilling the slide. My question is, Would this be production legal? This modification would be obvious externally with the drilled slide, but would be no different than SP-01s and Shadows that have the full length guide rod already. The rule book classifies guide rods as "internal" parts even tho they are externally visible. The main reason I am considering this is that reassembly with lighter recoil springs is a pain with the 2 inch stock guide rod and the spring is free to bang around inside the frame. It doesn't seem to affect function at all, but I have to think it can't be good for the spring or the parts it contacts. The full length rod would essentially trap the spring and limit the movement to front and back along the rod and the small side benefit of adding a touch of weight up front. Or am I just overthinking this? Thanks in advance for your responses. Darren
-
My CZ has the plastic guide rod in it do you suggest changing it to the stainless steel or just keep the plastic one
.jpg.5b1753e748accdd77eaf199b42aa69b1.jpg){kind=tracking}
