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Showing results for tags 'cmore'.
Found 12 results
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Does anyone know who sells the knobs for the click switch type control knob? Thanks for the info.
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Which c more 90deg mount is recommended for use on a cz; Tac sport Sp01 75b None are currently drilled Would a cheely 118 be usable on any of them? Tia
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I have an aluminum click cmore. I typically use two 357/303 batteries. Recently this scope has taken to killing the batteries incredibly fast. Today I was shooting and put two brand new energizer 357 lith ion batteries in it and literally in less than 3 min the dot had lost half its brigthness, cranked to the max it was barely visible. On a volt meter both batteries new from the package came out at 1.55+ v as you'd expect. When the dot goes dim, I pop them out and measure again and 1 battery is still 1.55 and the other had plummeted to 1.1v. This is the 3rd set of batteries that have gotten killed on my very very fast. At first I thought it was bad batteries, but each pair has been bought brand new from different lots and in the last 2 sets its the same story, one of the two batteries is still measuring 1.55 and the other is 1.1 to 1.2. thanks! sean
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I am thinking of changing the diode on my cmore to use my gun for other type of competions. Do any of you know if I have to be re-zeroing in the cmore every time i switch the diode? I know there will be a slight difference in aiming if I use for say an 8moa to a 4 moa since the dot is smaller. What I don't know is if I have to rezero every time i change it out. The reason I ask is because my open gun is set up for 9mm and 38super. I have marked my cmore for both calibers as to where I have to move the sighting screws so it can be sighted in for each caliber. I don't want to be erasing that paint and marking new ones every time. Just asking to see if anyone has had this experience before. Thanks
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Hey everyone, I was wondering what battery life you are getting out of your c-more. Mine is a 6 moa, less than a year old and what I've found is that I cannot leave it on full brightness between stages with a fresh battery. It has an advertised life of 300 hours, which I know is not at full brightness. I was able to regain some brightness by turning it off between stages. I contacted c-more about this and asked if this was normal. I didn't get a good answer, they just said to turn off the dot when not using it. I get that these dots are not as efficient as an aimpoint and whatnot, but it seems to me like a fresh battery should be able to last a day at a match on full brightness. Talking to a guy at the match, he mentioned that 8 moa dots are a little more efficient with their battery, but I haven't tried one so I can't say if that's true or not. Is this a normal experience for c-more users here? Is there a solid alternative to the slide-ride for a 2011? Thanks for your help
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Hello all. I am looking at purchasing an open gun that has a cmore serendipity attached. I would like to switch this to a cheeley say back 90 mount. ( I have this on my current gun and love it) My question is hole patterns and compatibility. what would I need to do? Could I add 2 holes in between the existing 3 and have a regular mounting pattern or what. Or would I have to order one w/o holes and drill specially for the mount. Thank you all.
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I would like to share the art work of 1911 Speed Shop in Riverside Ca ... Jimmy Vidanes heres: me and jimmy planning the cuts 10627697_10204157838284714_594687664_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr just a semi tri top w/ a french cut: 10587237_10204165597358686_1022342022_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr Pre-Titanium Grip : 10712262_10204375460285128_2081207620_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr 10676587_10204375460045122_413372266_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr Custom 1911 Speed Shop Comp: 10720512_10204400279625596_1787453154_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr 1911 Speed Shop Hollowed out comp w/ 1911 Speed Shop 45degree Cut 10712169_10204400279345589_1558026986_o by rippspeed1, on Flickr
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So I'm looking to build an Open M&P or two for family members. After trying a multitude of platforms, they have decided they want to go with an M&P (no love for my 2011s). I'm doing the research now to get the parts together but the one part that I'm unsure of the most is the scope mount. I know it's going to be a 90 degree mount so that narrows it down. I have looked all over and all I can find is two, the Stingray and the SJC. Did I miss any others? I have searched for reviews on here and elsewhere but haven't located a lot. Can anyone give me some advice on them such as ease/difficulty of installation, functionality, known issues, etc.? Thanks for any help!
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Hi I'm looking for an 90 degree C-MORE scope mount with SVI bolt pattern (AND SVI screw dimensions), they are using 6-40 and all mounts I seen using 5-40. Mount and screws needed. Anyone know where to find a mount? regards Anders
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I have recently become the owner of an awesome gun set up for 9 major. It runs greats but there is only one exception. Every 20 or so rounds, a spent case gets stuck between the slide and sight mount. It's almost like the sight doesn't allow enough space for a case to eject. I even see a common cut in the sight mount. I'm on the verge of buying a 90 degree or cutting off one side of the mount. Looking for any advice.
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This is probably a silly question: assuming ammo, trigger control, and grip are all equal, if 2 shooters of different height, arm length, etc, shoot the same gun - will the dot be zero for both of them? I bought a used open gun, and the original owner can get great hits with the gun (granted, he is a GM). When I shoot it (@10-15yds aiming at a 1" sticker on a USPSA target) I can group, but the group is about 2-3" low of center. My defacto thought is that it must be me and not the gun, but because my groups are tight but low, I started thinking it may be the zero. Thoughts?
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Two 22/45 Lite builds w/ Bearcave 90' C-More & Allchin Pac-Lite Comp My plan for the 2012 Ruger Rimfire World Championship was to go shoot, get a t-shirt, maybe win back my match fee, and of course, have a lot of fun. In summary, two fun days of shooting in limited and I also got to walk the prize table early enough to win a VQ TG2000 10/22 trigger group. However, instead of just being content with my MkIII 5” stainless with iron sights, fellow RFC member Sousa and several open shooters at the match convinced me to explore the world of red dots and comps. So at the match, I picked up a Pac-Lite Comp from John Allchin who was there shooting, as well as a 90 degree C-More mount from Barry of Bearcave Machining (he makes them for taccom) who was in my squad. For a platform, many folks were shooting the 22/45 lite and figured it would be a nice lightweight platform with a threaded muzzle ready for a screw on comp. So the week after the match, I went searching for a 22/45 lite but could not find one locally in stock. I wasn’t in a rush so I just placed an order at my local dealer and was told it may take several weeks and put on a waiting list. That same week, I went looking for some surplus stuff at another dealer and happened spot a NIB 22/45 Lite Talo and was made an offer I couldn’t refuse. Besides, I had several weeks to wait on the ‘gold’ version. Then of course, I get a call the next day from the other dealer saying several Lites came in and I could pick one up. I figured, why not and justified the decision to keep both so both my kids could shoot with them in several years. This also meant picking up another 90 degree mount and comp. So, here’s the Allchin comp. It uses two large ports which I like to make cleaning easier. I hate to clean guns and figured this may last longer between cleanings. I have a S&W 627 V-Comp (removable comp) that had the three thin slits opened up to one large opening. Even that thing clogs up with lead and crap so figured .22’s would be the same or even worse. As you can see, because the OD of the comp is larger than the barrel and the rear of the comp is recessed, there will be no visible gap between the muzzle and comp. This makes for a nice clean installation but for someone who likes to have iron sights available in the event the optic fails, the design of the compensator presented a challenge. Besides, Bearcave’s C-More mount was designed to allow irons sights to work with the C-More attached. Because the front face/edge of the front sight sits flush with the muzzle, the overlapping rim of the comp would hit the front sight base. I thought about cutting back the compensator, but that would expose the gap between it and the muzzle. I also though about chopping a portion of the front sight with a hack saw, but that would likely look too butch and make for a funny looking front sight. So, this is what I settled with: I don’t have any fancy equipment nor do I have access to a machine shop. I basically chucked up an end mill HSS bit to a Lowes/Skil drill press, secured the sight to a vise, and started cutting. Did some rough measuring as well as approximated the amount of relief needed if the comps were properly clocked with the ports up at 12 o’clock. Again, nothing fancy, a little rough, but better than a dremel. I’ll probably degrease and spray some black Aluma-hyde on the exposed metal later. The Allchin comp comes with two different thickness rubber o-rings to assist in clocking the comp to the barrel. With the OEM wave washer, it’s pretty easy to get things aligned. However, I found that the o-rings can tear after repeated installation/removal and my OCD personality wanted something a little more precise and repeatable without much effort once setup properly. So, given the threads are 28 tpi, which also means a pitch of 0.0357” and 0.0357” per revolution, I calculated the following: ½ turn = 0.0178” ¼ turn = 0.0089” 1/8 turn = 0.0044” 1/16 turn = 0.0022” 1/32 turn = 0.001” I screwed on each comp as far down as possible and then approximated how far away from 12 o’clock the ports were. So, if the ports were facing 3 o’clock (i.e. over rotated past 12 o’clock), that would mean the comp was about a ¼ turn over rotated and would need a shim in the area of 0.009” to get it to stop at 12 o’clock with a snug fit. McMaster Carr always has those hard to find nuts, bolts and widgets and I ordered a bunch of steel shims ranging in size from 0.001” up to 0.031”, which should give me enough combinations and permutations of shims to fit any application and variation. Here’s the C-More and the Bearcave 90 degree mount ready to be mounted. Both Lites have the standard fare of upgrades and modifications. Both have the ZRT charging handle as well at the closeout VQ 22/45 extended mag release buttons. I’ll be sure to post pics when done.
