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Found 5 results

  1. Guys - Most of us here load a lot of ammo - that is why we hang out here with like minded folks and from this forum about 3 years ago I learned about what has become one of the most valuable tools in "my" reloading room (I know there are those that may disagree and I respect your position). Each time I finish reloading a "batch" (in this batch there were about 500 rounds) I stop, grab by Shockbottle Case Gauge, grab the 3.5 power glasses (usually wear 2.5 power), turn on the LED work bench light that sits 18" above the work bench area I use, and I start case gauging the rounds I have loaded. Now while actually loading a "batch" I have on the reloading bench right beside my press this same Shockbottle Gauge as well as a Dillon or Wilson single round case gauge that I will grab and drop one round about every 10-20 rounds being loaded into the single gauge for a quick check. If I get any resistance I STOP my reloading the case then goes into the Shockbottle gauge for further checking. Based on the results I continue on or figure out what had changed. Many time I realize the single case gauge is a little dirty. When this happens I grab a small nylon brush and some alcohol to give the single case gauge a quick cleaning (case lube build up over time that may cause a round to "stick" a little). BUT - EVERY round I load - EVERY round I load goes through the Shockbottle Case Gauge. Now many here will say "Mark - You need to check your rounds on a hard surface not a towel like the pictures below show" - I do guys - I just use the towel as the transfer area from the bulk ammo bin to the Shockbottle case gauge. Below is an example why IMO this tool is so important.....Look Close - Three over and Three down from the front left corner of the block (I set it up this way for these pictures) but this was found during my check this morning. One 9mm Makarov piece of brass..... And then of course we all have experienced a 380 round making it all the way through our loading process even when we know that we sorted out "every" 380 round from our brass....The good news is the 380 rounds really stand out when you use a multi-cavity case gauge like the Shockbottle. We know a 380 round can stop many guns for functioning and not sure about the 9mm Makarov but its case is ever so slightly smaller than the standard 9mm case so I am guessing it could get stuck in some guns chambers. Again just wanted to share with everyone because some reloaders may not be aware of or think case gauges are vital in this process we all enjoy (at some level even if it for the $$ savings). If you are like me and reload range pick up brass you might want to consider getting some type of case gauge if you do not have one today - and make time/take time to gauge every round you intend to shoot. I do not want something like this, that I can control, to cause me to not shoot to my capability. Again - I learned about the Shockbottle case gauge right here on this forum and bought one because of it - just thought I would share with others another learning opportunity I received from this forum.
  2. I stumbled across this case gauge on Tooth & Nail's website last night while checking out their shotguns. This gauge looks nice and I was wondering if anyone has seen/tried one. At $199, they're not cheap, but I'm inclined to take the plunge. Since my friends aren't willing to give me an intervention, I've been out of control buying guns and reloading equipment, I'll likely buy one and report back. It's 10X10 and it seems most ammo boxes are 5X10, so they won't transfer as easily as the Hundo/Shockbottle. Hopefully someone steps-up with a review first... I've seen forum talk about when Hundo/Shockbottle would be coming out with a 100-round case gauge for 5.56/223 REM, but it seemed it was a structural/engineering issue. Perhaps I'm not searching correctly, but I couldn't find anything on a case gauge like T & N's. http://www.toothandnailarmory.com/product/TN056.html
  3. So far I have been case-gauging every round I make, 1800 rounds so far. I drop the round into the case gauge, then turn it over so that it falls out. I have yet to have a round fail the case gauge. As I get familiar with this, it really doesn't seem possible for a round to fail. You get the dies all set right and check everything properly before and after a run, it's hard to see how a round will fail a case gauge. I find myself wondering whether case-gauging is really necessary. This doesn't mean I've never had a round to fail a case gauge. So far I've had four or five rounds stick high. But it wasn't because they were out of spec. They were ALL because the brass had a tiny speck of crud on the case. Get the crud off, and the round suddenly case-gauges just perfect. So far I'm thinking the purpose of a case gauge is to find dirty rounds, not to check whether or not a round is within specs. Has anyone here had an incident where a case gauge kept him from getting into a potentially hazardous situation?
  4. So I thought I'd misplaced my Dillon case gauge and decided its time to "Cadillac" my reloading bench with something new. I placed an order for an EGW 7 hole case gauge in 9mm. But before it came in I found the Dillon gauge. No problem. After receiving the order, I've found that the EGW gauge is significantly tighter than the Dillon gauge. In checking numerous match and practice loads, the rounds fall out of the Dillon gauge but fail to go into the EGW gauge. Since the rounds run through all my guns without problems (been using the Dillon gauge for years), I doubt that I will change the settings on my press. Anyone else seen this? Recommendations? So what do I do with the EGW gauge? If I had a chamber reamer I would open it up a bit. But as it is, the shipping cost to return it will eat up most of the refund. Just a very minor blip in my Monday morning. Bill
  5. Just reloaded a batch of 100, 40 caliber rounds on a Dillon 650. Once completed I checked all of them with a case gauge and 32 rounds did not seat all the way in. During the reloading I made sure the handle traveled the full distance up/down. I'm new to reloading so any suggestion would help. The brass is once fired from a glock, and I have heard of problems with case bulge, so I'm not sure if that's an issue.
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