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Showing results for tags 'SP01'.
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There are quite a few resources out there for us shade tree gunsmiths to work on our CZs, most notably this epic thread (http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42537.0) I have linked to many times by David Milam of Cajun Gun Works. While tuning up a brand new SP01, I decided to take a stab at a comprehensive beginner's guide to these great pistols; my hope is that this thread will spark discussion and collaboration so that collective knowledge of this forum can create something really useful for new CZ lovers. The tools: I prefer a heavy hammer because it will deliver high energy blows without swinging it too hard (less effort = more control); you can cut down on "idiot marks" and other collateral damage when you swing the hammer with less effort. Because the pins in my Brownells set are too short for some applications I use these basic punches as well: although it looks like Brownells is now selling longer pins: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/gunsmith-replaceable-pin-punch-set-prod545.aspx The replaceable pins are nice because punches do bend and they do break. You'll see I also use Quick Clamps with rubber boots which do a nice job of clamping the frame/slide down without marring the finish. By nature polishing metal is about removing metal, but the key is to remove very little amounts of metal at a time; I use a power sander with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper on flat parts and a felt wheel with automotive rubbing compound on those 'hard to reach' spots. As we become intimately familiar with our pistols, it's easy to become lax on safety, so I began by clearing the pistol. I tested the trigger pull for a baseline:
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- da/sa
- smoothing the action
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SP01 Shadow, front end of RH safety moves outward as shown in picture. This is happening during DA, particularly when using a reduced power mainspring. When this happens, hammer will not drop. Thumb pressing on LH safety helps, most of the time. Squeezing on RH safety so it stays close to slide always drops the hammer. With stock hammer spring or slightly lighter ones hammer always drop. Any thoughts what's causing this? Wear on the safety or sear cage? Or disconnector? Thanks.
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Hello, I recently shot an SP-01 converted to SAO with Cajun Gun Works parts and it was amazing. Had the Race Hammer Kit, extended firing pin, 13# hammer spring, aluminum SAO trigger, reduced power trigger spring. The trigger was outstanding although the reset a bit long. But I hear removing the FPB will solve that. I want to get a gun for USPSA limited and am trying to decide between getting an SP-01 and converting it to SAO Cajun style with the above parts, or whether to get the CZ Tactical Sport. I suppose a third option would be get the TS and put an aluminum CGW trigger in it but leave the rest stock including the hammer. Have any of you held both? How do they compare? Advantage of the SP-01 is I will save money and still have an outstanding gun. Also mags are cheaper for the SP-01 than the TS. Advantage of the Tactical Sport I see being the longer barrel (larger sight radius and more heft for follow up shots) and larger grip. Although the SP-01 grip is very comfortable, I do have long fingers and I don't think it could hurt to have a bit larger grip. I know the TS has larger mags, but I'd just use Taran Tactical mag extenders for the SP01 if I went that route. I'm more wanting comparison of shooting each if anyone has handled both. Thanks for the help.
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- sp01
- tactical sport
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I have a SP01 I got in a trade that has the ambi safety levers. My hand is not large enough to reach it though so I want to put the largest extended safety on it I can while still being legal for IDPA's ESP and USPSA's Limited. I don't know that I'll ever actually shoot it in either I just want to know that I can if I want to. First question what safety is that? Second question how hard is it to install? Will there be any "fitting" required?
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Does frame weight really affect recoil control? I posted this video testing it with my different production guns to see. Maybe results are different with a 40/38sc. What am I missing here? It doesn't seem to, IMO. What are other ways to test it? Testing the difference between a CZ 75B vs. CZ SP01 Shadow Custom vs. CZ AccuShadow
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I have a CZ75 SP-01 Shadow from Automatic Accuracy and I like the rear sight that came with it. I like how the bevel on the top edge of the sight directs your eyes to the slot. Here's a picture of it on my CZ: I also have a CZ75 SP01 (Not Shadow) that I would like to get the same rear sight for. I realize the Shadow and the SP-01 have different rear sight notch locations and take different sights, but I like the bevel on the Shadow sight shown above. Here's a picture of my SP-01 with the CZ Custom rear sight. It is very similar except for not having the bevel along the top edge of the sight. Does anyone know what rear sight is on my Shadow (top pictures? Does anyone know if the same rear sight is available for a CZ75 SP01?
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My wife was shooting here sp01 the other day and brought me back to rounds that failed to go off. I will post a pic when I find them, but both had very light hit that was also very off center. Very odd, its almost like the hammer fell out of battery but the gun will not let the hammer fall unless the slide is fully forward.
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- sp01
- light strikes
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Hoping someone can give me a direction to look at with a pair of issues I'm having. This is for an SP01 tactical, so it's got a decocker. I picked up 'the full Monty' more or less from CGW, and while David's offered to have me send it in for review at no charge, I'm not at that point yet. One main problem: after light polishing and 'many' parts replaced in one go, my SA pull and break is quite nice at 2.6# but DA (with 11.5# hammer spring) increased to 7.8#, or ~9# with the 13# hammer spring. Previously, I was at: 13# hammer spring was at DA 8#, SA 3.75# with extended firing pin, reduced rate firing pin spring, reduced weight FPB spring, polished FPB and FPB 'bore.' 11.5# with the above gave DA of 6.5#, SA 3.6# (effectively the same, Wheeler pull gauge) So in effect, I've gained 1.5# of pull somewhere in the latest changes. Changes made since the 'better' pull #s. Reach reduction kit - 85C hammer with Allen screws for over-travel and DA pre-travel reduction Short reset kit + disconnector CGW Race Hammer CGW Hammer and trigger pins Reduced rate trigger return spring Extended mag release general thorough polish, no angles changed nor significant metal removal, tooling marks remain I may well have managed to re-use the OE TRS and FP lifter. Don't ask, working late, tired, was taking some side by side pics of both OE + CGWs, then wife called, came back later and went with 'has no wear marks' and put back together..) If anyone has a clear picture showing the differences to visually identify between the OE firing pin lifter and CGWs, I'd greatly appreciate it.. Open to thoughts or suggestions. Will swap out the lifters tonight, although I'm hard pressed to see that account for that type of increase in DA pull. Pic of most of the parts: Mostly back together (now fully together). I did wind up taking the sear cage fully down, and had some 'fun' sorting that, but don't believe anything's out of place there..
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- cz
- sp01 tactical
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My SP01 came from CZC with a 13 lb. main spring, which I'm finding isn't 100% reliable on the ammo I'm shooting. I'm wondering what people have found regarding main-spring weights and ignition reliability across brands of ammo. I don't want to get a click instead of a bang during a match!