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Showing results for tags '650'.
Found 20 results
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I had a squib at the range the other day. I had two other no-powder squibs with my 550 and upgraded to a 650 primarily to stop that from happening again. And it became clear that had actually worked. There was powder from the round all over the place. Inside the gun, in the handle, on the shelf. The primer fired---the powder did NOT. For the records: 9mm cast-lead 115 gr .356 Bayou Bullets RN cast lead, 1.161 COAL over 5.5 gr Power Pistol and CCI small pistol primers, fired from Springfield XDM 3.8 Full-size. Shot thousands of rounds with NO problems. This has caused considerable head-scratching. The only thing I can come up with is the crimp was a touch too light. I know it's supposed to be neck-tension only and I'm thinking I went a little too far. You can see the crimp line but can't scratch it. Sometimes it fades a little because the bullet coating is not rigidly uniform. Thoughts? TIA.
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I had a weirdness with my 650 the other day. If you let it sit for a minute---the powder went up about 0.3 grain. But if you maintained a steady rhythm, it would stay at 5.5 grains +/- 0.1 grain (Power Pistol), which is normal behavior. I have a powder check die I have set for maximum sensitivity. A detector is at its most sensitive when it is right on the edge of going off. I've got mine set so that it "chirps" just a little with every round. That way I know the battery is good and everything's working. I have tested it and it will go off if the charge is 0.3-0.4 gr too high. I've had it this way for thousands and thousands of rounds and it hasn't gone off even once. The other day it went off on the first round of the day, be-e-e-e-e-p! My first inclination was I had messed the detector up somehow, because it had just passed the ten-throw quality control check. But I checked the powder weight first. Sure enough, it was 0.3 gr high. This set off a circus. If I maintained a steady rhythm, everything was fine. I let it sit for ten minutes, the first drop was high. This was a repeatable thing. I did a 100-round run. Every once in a while the powder-check detector would go off, and sure enough the charge would be 0.3-0.4 grains too high. This is NOT normal behavior. Something flaky is wrong with powder-drop system. So I have stopped making bullets until I know what the hell is going on. Maintenance: At the end of every run I will dis-assemble and clean the powder bar with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). I do NOT clean the funnel, and maybe this is the mistake. Conditions: It was raining, so humidity may have been a factor. My temperature/humidity meter was reporting 72F/75 per cent relative humidity. Thoughts, opinions? TIA.
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[TL/DR: table at bottom] I just installed the last two accessories on my Dillon 650 and I think I’m pretty much good to go after 6 months of reloading. This forum was very helpful for me as a new reloaded so I thought I’d share this info for people trying to get into it....just saw one such inquiry minutes ago. This list is grouped by level of need and then most to least expensive...highly subjective I know. It’s just one man’s opinion! If you buy the green items labeled “Base Machine” you can load ammunition if you acquire components (powder, primers and brass). It might be slow going and unsafe but you could make a round of ammunition. I would call the blue additions “necessities” either for safety or logistical reasons. Yelow are highly recommended “priority upgrades” that we can debate & add to here. Orange entires are creature comforts and case prep items to re-use brass and save more money. Also for those suffering from sticker shock, the “rounds to cover” is a hypothetical payback assuming you can save about $.115 per round. I load 40, so YMMV. Tell your wife you will reload an obscure cartridge and save 70% per round.
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I drank the blue koolaid and got a 650 press. Just about got it set up to reload 40 S&W but had problems with the case feeder slide cam adjustment. Didn't find any posts that addressed the same issue so I'm posting the issue and what seems to have corrected it. The problem was that cases where not dropping into the case feeder body onto the slide platform properly. They were dropping far too early and bouncing off or falling over and jamming. I was unable to adjust the cam out any farther to delay to case release. I inspected all the parts and didn't see any debris or anything broken or worn. I guess the cam could be out of spec? Since its a holiday weekend I figured I would try my own fix and I will call Dillon Tuesday to see what they say. What seems to have fixed the problem was just to slightly angle the top half portion of the cam surface. So at the top edge I took off about 3/16 of an inch and angled to nothing at mid cam surface. This delayed the release until the last 1/4 inch of cam travel. Making this slight adjustment seems to have fixed the problem. At least for loading 40 S&W. Comments and recommendations are welcome. Thanks. -
650 Changes over the past few years?
Chris777 posted a topic in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
I maybe in the market for a 650 in the next few months. Was wondering if there have been any major or minor changes in the 650 over the past few years to be aware of as I look at new and used options? Does anyone have a list of changes or site where I could see what / if anything has changed or improved on the 650 over the years? Also, if you want to sell your 650, dm me.. Thanks Chris -
I haven’t seen anyone do this before. So. Here’s how I fit all of my reloading gear into the guest room closet: I have been loading in the garage on a spacious workbench for ten years. I do a lot of welding and fab work so grinding dust and clutter and the humidity of a southern climate have always been concerns. I decided to move my 650 / bulletfeeder / all the upgrades setup into the house. I built a very solid but ultra light and compact frame from 1” square tubing and a leftover section of angle iron. Two solidly braced legs and two 3” screws lagging it into the wall studs. Ford blue engine paint matches the Dillon halfway decently (it’s a shade darker) and a red oak stairway plank from Home Depot got coated in polyurethane as the tabletop. My old bench was six legs made with 4x4 lumber and long drywall screws and is not nearly as solid as this. Nothing flinches if you hang off the handle anymore: the old bench had some flex I didn’t notice until now. Additionally I screwed a power strip to the wall next to the door that powers up my lighting and everything else with one flick. Added cheap compact shelving from HD that suited my space. Added wall storage for grip trainers and my USPSA belt rigs. A 24” LED light provides a shocking amount of light in such a small, reflective space. Table is 20” x 18” and the top is 36” from the floor. I’d prefer it to be 2” higher for my 6 foot tall height... but this gives me six inches between the top of the ceiling and the casefeeder. I leave it permanently full now: I can walk in and just resume pulling the handle at any time. I’m trying to load ~50 rounds a day, which is 3-5 minutes of work work with the bulletfeeder added... so I’m never in need of ammo before a match. Ford Blue engine paint from Autozone: Welded up and primed painted: Lagged into two wall studs: Table top installed, no organization on the shelves: Press freshly bolted down. Cords and unorganized mess: Cabled all the cords together neatly, starting to figure out where I want to store things: Finished. Aerosols and such on the door. Belts hung on the wall. A cleaner cardboard box to store tumbled brass on the floor, and the primer catcher kit bolted on to route spent primers into my trash bucket under the bench:
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I'm thinking I'd like to try a powder baffle to help improve the consistency of my Dillon 650 over the course of a reloading session. Any thoughts on the Uniquetek baffle vs the Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle? Uniquetek Precision Powder Baffle: Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle: -
Currently recapping / re-sizing on a rockchucker, hand priming and the rest on an LNL for ultimate reliability. Want to do the same but then with XL650 with case feeder. Can I remove the priming section completely like I did with the LNL? Rest is clear... Thank you!!
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I've been loading on a RL550 for 30 years, but just recently treated myself to a new 650. Yesterday afternoon I changed it back to 9mm and ran off 200 9mm loads using WW231 powder. Near the end of the run I noticed powder on the shell plate around one of the locations, only one cartridge location. This machine indexes smoothly, it doesn't spill powder, I'm guessing there was somewhere in the area of 1-2 grains by weight of powder just around that one location, I have NEVER had that happen ever in all that time on a Dillon. Now I'm trying to figure out what the heck happened, 231 flows so well I wouldn't expect a bridge in the powder measure making the powder drop late and miss the case, or the thing that scares me is the possibility for some unknown reason I might have gotten an interuption, somehow managed ro drop a double charge which overflowed the case, maybe even a little off the top when I put a bullet on the case for seating. With the auto indexing I don't see how that could have happened, but there were a few interuptions where I had to stop to fix some small problem, which is always the place where a mistake can be made. I don't have a powder check die, it looks like I might want to go ahead and order one. The thought of possibly pulling down 200 rounds to check for a double charge or a squib is disturbing, but I don't like the idea of a small grenade sitting in one of those boxes just waiting to destroy a pistol. Any ideas on what might have happened or an easy way to sort through that bunch? I tried to search for a similar problem but kept getting a "Server error".
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I came across this from a post in another thread about their primer filler. holy cow!! talk about the Ferrari of auto drives. It makes the mk7 look basic. Custom bullet feeder (modified mbf), everything power actuated. Full auto primer collator and feeder. Id hate to know the cost!
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I moved up to a 650 from a 550 and need to know any upgrades that I need to do? I have the case feeder, bullet tray, roller handle, and strong mount. what else do you recommend for the 650 besides the bullet feeder, that will come later.
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I have had my 650 for about 3 months. No problems until today...the primers stopped dropping. The tube is full but nothing is dropping into the wheel below it. I have searched Youtube for a video on how to disassemble it and remove the problem primer but I have not had any luck finding one. I have no idea how to remove this tube and dump out all the primers then reassemble. Any help would be appreciated.
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650 Case Feeder w/ Mr Bullet Feeder
coltlover posted a topic in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Ok guys, I have a Mr Bullet feeder on the way for my 650 set up for 9mm. While my case feeder feeds reasonably well, I can only put 50-60 casings in at a time w/o the shell plate stalling. I've tried adjusting the clutch to no avail. It would be nice to be able to load that hopper up so I can haul ass w/ the bullet feeder in place. How many casings should I expect the hopper to hold and still function? -
While helping my brother set up his 650 to load 223Rem we had problems with powder spillage. First thing we found was the powder funnel was oily which collected grains of powder and caused wildly inaccurate throws and a lot of powder spillage. Mental note; Clean all new parts of machining oils and debris. The next try to drop powder and set the powder throw was much better but still we had powder spillage with each throw. We turned the "A" powder funnel over, installing it upside down and now no spillage at all. The 650 pictures and instructions say to install the powder funnel with the machined grove up. We found it works better with the machined grove installed down. It is installed on my 550 the same, grove down, so I think maybe the instruction are a little unclear or misleading. I hope this will help someone else just starting out with the "A" powder funnel. -
Guys and gals, I am in the process of planning/constructing a case collator or feeder if that what some may call it because I like to tinker and I am also all about saving money. The question I have is after watching video after video of folk's builds is, have any of you that have made one put some type of clutch contraption on yours, and if so, how did you do it. I have only found one person so far that I have seen that has a clutch on it. Everyone else seems to be just running theirs without worrying about a hangup. I have read about one guy that put some type of sensor on his that shuts off it it detects some type of interruption. I don't know how it worked, but his was electronic. I am wanting to build just a basic case collator that is effective. I do value my time, but I also as mentioned before, like to build things like this for fun and it will be used often, so I am not worried about putting 4-6 hours in a project like this. I think in the end, if it works well and looks decent, and I haven't dropped 100.00 bucks in it, problem solved and I had a good time doing it. Thanks in advance guys. Have a safe weekend. EW -
I know a lot of you have a Mr. Bullet Feeder, any one using the GSI bullet feeder on a 650? Looking to load 9mm on the 650. I like the idea it sets the bullet besides just dropping it.
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Hello everyone, this is my first post. I am new to the forum and soon to be new to reloading. I plan to be loading 9mm, .45 acp, .223 & 5.56 (what differences in parts and process are there between the two?) and will be wanting to add an additional larger rifle round in the future that is yet to be determined. (any suggestions?) I am looking at the 550, 650, or 1050 and so far am leaning toward the 650 but was curious what others thought about the rounds I am looking to do and if such a thing makes any difference. Thanks, Derick
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Ok, former green gear guy, recently shifted over to blue. My 650 was misaligned on the upstroke (shellplate down). But, I adjust the indexing pawl and that seems to be fixed. However, I still have an issue during the downstroke (shellplate going up) with the powder funnel and decap/resize die. It's off by a hair. The funnel catches on the case rim in station 2 and the decap/resize doesn't center enough to make it in without a small nudge. This isn't every time, but it's enough to be annoying. What to do?
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I have never reloaded. I only want to load .40 s&w (I shoot a little bit of 45 but less than 300 rounds a month) So I picked the 650 and associated accessories. I don't have loads worked up, yet. I ordered two books on reloading (Lyman and The ABCs Of Reloading). I like to experiment and design stuff. I'm wondering if I covered all my bases or am buying senseless items for my needs. I would like your input on my selection.. Thanks
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I recently received a new .308/.30-06 conversion kit for my Dillon 650 which has a new "B" powder funnel. I also had an older "B" funnel and noticed the new one is about .15" shorter than the older one. I am assuming I will need to run the powder die down further to activate the powder drop and this should be all. Am I correct? Or is there a reason I should not use one or the other? On the other hand I have a new "A" funnel and an old "A" funnel and on these the new one is longer by 1/4" Thanks Jerry
