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Showing results for tags '550b'.
Found 7 results
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dose anyone know if the inline fabrication ergo handle with fit on a 550b with a case feeder. -
Hi, Serval questions and request for recommended set up. Many moons since I purchased the Dillion RT1200 case trimmer. Been sitting in storage due to work. I now see they are no longer in the Dillion line. Offering only the RT 1500. Mine is like new...just now have the chance (need) to put it to use... - So, what was the difference between the RT1200 and the RT1200B? Anything I need to be aware of for an "upgrade"? Just FYI, my first Dillion was a 450 and still being used (with upgrades). I also now have a 550B and the XL650...no clue what generational changes been made to the machines since I brought them... - What is the best practice for setting up the trimmer? I have several presses to include a single stage Rock Chucker. I'm not making .300 BO...just trimming .223, .308, and 30/06 brass. I have the steel dies for all three calibers. I have a dedicated de-priming die and several speciality die that will neck size only. I also may want to do .38 SPL later. Anyone still shoots .38s? Is the case feeder for the 550 worth the expense if I shoot only around 2000 or so a year? Will same case feed shell plate for .38 work for non-rimmed cases like 9mm, 30 carbine... Probably will use my 450 (no tool head) as the brass processing machine and load on my 550. My 650 is set up for .45 ACP and will likely not be changed...I shoot lots more .45 than other calibers. -
Does anyone deprime and resize off their 550b press, then prime the case and powder charge on stage one? I'm thinking you could do this and use a powder check on stage two, seat the bullet on stage three and crimp on stage four. I'm careful about powder dropping, but still worry about high or low charges. I have a Lee single stage press that I use a universal decapping die for all my spent cases. I also use an Inline Fabrication Skylight for my 550b, so I can inspect my powder case fill. I'm just wondering if this set up would work or why it wouldn't? Sometimes I have too much time on my brain and it wanders and comes up with strange ideas. Sorry if this has been hashed over before, I couldn't find it in any searches.
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Tested a small batch today, and decided to load 50 rounds before heading to bed. This might have been the smallest reloading session I've ever done
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I recently told a eastern European Jewish shooting friend I was going to home and "have a come to Jesus moment on a reloading forum", after a incident with a squib that was identified after the fact that scared the hell out of me. He wondered what the WTF I was talking about until I told him my story and he said you may not get Jesus to help you with that but you should get to the bottom of it before you hurt yourself. So here it goes. Incident I was shooting my G17 with my 147 gr reloads with a Storm Lake after market barrel doing some IDPA drills. During a bill drill the slide jammed half way back and it was stuck on the barrel with no squib. It could not be dislodged on the scene and I took it to an armorer. He dislodged it and he looked at the barrel and he said send it back to SL, the tolerances on the barrel block are too tight for the slide. So I sent it to SL and after talking with the nice fellow in SL tech support. SL indicated that tolerances between the machining in Glock slides and SL barrels sometimes do not match up (very rare) and he offered to machine down the barrel block to my G17 gen 2 slide. I sent both to SL and they found to my surprise (what I and the armorer did not notice) that the SL barrel had a bulge in it about half way down and would not easily fit through the barrel hole in slide muzzle, SL indicated this is what caused the barrel to jamb on the slide. He asked if I had a squib during the drill and I indicated I had not and I had shot with the SL barrel before (not a lot) and had no problems. Upon closer examination he found what appeared to be a copper ring fragment at the bulge and was able to knock it out. It was his opinion (he is a pro shooter) that I had a squib and I did not notice it and shot a second bullet into the squib that dislodged both. He indicated I was very lucky and advised me to carefully review how I was reloading. Reloading from the basement cave I am a relatively new reloader I only reload 9mm. There are not a lot of reloaders in the area so a lot of advice has been from forums and parenthetical advice at matches. I have been doing it since Jan 2013 and I have logged about 3900 rounds. When I first started I had the typical beginners problems had squibs and I number of measures to rectify the problems and the worked. But I still have an occasional squib or light load. Here's how I reload now Reloader: Dillon 550B Loads: 147 and 124 gr, minor power factor Powders: various due supply I typically use Hodgden U, Win 231; I typically load abt 3.6 for the 147 gr, and 4 gr for the 124 . I chrono my loads and I am happy with the results and repeatability. Bullets: Berry and MG cartridges: various from the range, weed out military and steel target OAL: 1.10 crimp: .378 to .377 Before reloading I calibrate the scale and run about 5 to 10 test drops until I am happy with the target powder drop. I have mounted a flash light so I can see the powder in the cartridge. after running about 10 rounds I check with a caliper to make sure things are set, they always are. I only had to tighten up the seating station once to make sure I was getting the right OAL. I do not like wasting rounds or primers so if a primer does not feed right away I will sometimes give it a second attempt to seat it after that I throw it away. I have had some problems with variable powder feeds. I have had to adjust the powder drop to just the right angle and tighten up on the screw at the end of the riser bar (what I call it). It seems to be running smoother now. But I still get some jamming of powder dispenser and that little white plastic nut that runs against the powder slide jumps off. I check every round with case gauge. It has been suggested that my crimp is too tight. Do any of you have suggestions as to how I can weed out this squib problem. I would estimate I get one every 200 to 300 rounds. I do not know what the problem is but I'm losing confidence. One thought is to get and get an experienced reloader to observe my reloading first hand, only so much I can get from forums. thanks
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I finally broke down and bought a Dillon 550b. It appears the ram has some lube from the factory, but I'm not sure how much. The ram makes a high pitch rasping sound when I move the ram. It is smooth, but I get the impression it is dragging. Just wondering if this is normal on a new 550b. I did put some 30 weight oil on the ram, and it did seem to reduce the noise some, but it is still there. Also, I'm having a problem with the index ball under the shell plate. I can't get the star to spin smoothly and the index ball will only sometimes click into place. I was thinking I needed to lubricate the shell plate bolt and the indent ball with some light grease, but not sure of the process. Before I made a mess with grease I wanted to see what the experts thought. I shot a video of it on my phone and uploaded it to YouTube to try and capture the sound and it worked. It is nosier than the sound in the video, but you will get the idea. youtu. be/- 7fvZPWUwlA (remove the spaces and add an http: in front of it) If you watch the HD version, you can kind of see streaks in the oil. I'm guessing that is where the main shaft is rubbing. Is this NORMAL with a new 550b press?
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Hello all, So I have a crazy question, in the instructions for the case feeder they suggest that you should start with one or two "bins" of cases in the hopper. Well with just one half full "bin" the damn thing jams up and will not spin to move the cases around. What should I be putting in the hopper, 100? less.. hell why not feed them by hand..... I can't call Dillon, because they don't answer their phone anymore..... Any suggestions would be great. Kevin
