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Showing results for tags '223'.
Found 19 results
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After talking to a couple of people using the Commercial size Roll Sizer, they have the same issue I do in that the 223 brass will tip over before being walked into the disc. The brass maintains this tipped over attitude until they are discharged out of the Roll Sizer. I am not sure if this will cause a lot of issues regarding to chambering, but I stand there and tip the brass upright before it is sucked into the disc to prevent any further issues. I would like to be able to not have to babysit the Roll Sizer when rolling 223 brass. I am curious if anyone has come up with a fix. I have tried creating a leaf spring that has not been perfected, but I thought I would ask before spending any more time on this approach if someone has already identified a solution. -
Hi there, everyone. Long time lurker... first time posting (out of frustration). My name is Dave and I am from the PNW. I love this forum and get so many great tips tricks and learn so much hear. To start off, the problems I have having. Consistency. I am preping once fired LC. 90% passes the case gauge, say 2% is slightly over sized (as in smaller than spec) and about 8% is under sized, (won't set flush in the gauge). It's not the rim, because turning them over the base slides into the gauge. Is this "normal", I hate having to gauge all my brass. What I am running. 650 with a MarkVII. Die one is a Lee universal deprime with a Fast and Friendly decap rod. Station 2 is a swage it. Station 3 is a RT1500 with a Dillon trim die, 4 is empty, 5 is a Lee sizing die with the depriming tip ground off so it won't crash into my press (this is to re set the neck, one last shot and getting the shoulder right, and getting rid of any burrs from trimming). Just getting frustrated..... I should be able to process this stuff with the set up.... but what am I doing wrong. How do you guys process 223, 308 on one pass? Or does it have to be ran twice to get it right, and if so, what set up? The other issue is the Mk7/650, I can't do a calibrate cycle with the swage it.... I have to take it off, install the primer punch and block. Calibrate, then take the priming parts back off and re install the swage it.... It doesn't seem like I used to have to do this... seems like I used to be able to calibrate with the swage it installed. Wondering if something has changed with my press, but I can't see anything, just that.... and it seems odd. Anyone else have this issue? Or is that just how it is, and I am not remembering right from my last time processing brass (a year or so ago....). And yep seemed to have the same problem with consistency then as well.... Thanks guys, Hope you have a wonderful day. Dave
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Recently got a RT1500 to process the backup of 223 brass I have. Problem: Brass coming off the press has a pretty solid edge that feels like the inside edge needs to be deburred. I took a paper clip and drug it across the inside lip and could feel it hang up/drag. Is that normal for this case trimmer? I assume the crimp will take care of the outside edge when I actually load it. Currently on a 2 process cycle on a 1050 Wet Tumble them first since I have been shooting suppressed Station 1: Redding Size/Deprime Station 2: Dillon swage Last station: RT1500 I have put the trimmed cases in both the wet tumbler and a dry tumbler and neither are fully removing the lip. I'm fearful that the lip will drag on the bullet and cause issues when loading/shooting. Is that stupid and I'm just overthinking it or is it actually going to be a problem.
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I purchased about 1000 rounds of once fired, cleaned, brass online a few months ago and just got around to reloading some of them. They all appear to have some kind of crimping or indents on the mouth. I have never seen this before. Maybe from a puller or something? Mixed head stamps. But they all seem to be non usable because it pushes out burs,for the lack of a better word, after the sizing die. I currently use a Lee sizer, but I have tried my Dillon die as well with same results. I can get all the way through the reloading process but the necks all feel like there is a rough lip remaining. They do still properly fit in a case gauge. I first couldn't figure out what the cause was and thought it was a die issue. But after swapping out everything and then running different brass through they all came out fine, so its definitely the brass. I even tried crimping down way to much to see if it smooths out but they don't. Using a chamfer didn't make a difference either. The pic makes it look like there is lip on the mouth but it feels smooth to the neck. I use a Dillon 650 if it matters. Any thoughts of how to save the brass?
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Question for the group. I currently run 55 grain burner ammo for short range and 69 grain for long range targets in 3 gun. I am sick of having different zeros to remember and would like to simplify my rifle game... Other than cost and a potential decrease in long range accuracy on a windy day can you think of any other disadvantage to running 62 grain ammo for everything? I run a 16" JP PSC-11 with 1:8 twist.
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I just got into shooting long range and have a savage model 10 in 308 and am wanting to get myself a 223 to play with and also as a loaner/intro long range rifle that's cheaper to run. I really like my savage in 308 and have always liked savages any thoughts or, even better, firsthand knowledge with the model 10 precision carbine in 223? Thanks
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Hi - I've had my XL650 for a few months, and haven't had a ton of time to work it. So consider it 'still new'. This is my 'third round' of ammunition through it. I am loading .223 from used brass that I've shot once from factory loaded ammo I purchased, usually American Eagle in the black box in lots of 100. I am having what i think is a larger than normal 'failure' of the primer into the primer pocket and looking for advice. If I do a 'batch' of ammo, out of about 150 rounds, maybe 20 have some time of primer issue. The primer either is missing/fails to seat when the ammo gets through the press, or in more rarer cases it's in the pocket, but either at a horrible angle, or in a few instances just 'not in all the way'. I can usually tell when this happens, as there is a rather 'crunch' feeling when I push the press handle back to seat the primer. In most cases the kinetic hammer will dislodge everything correctly. There are a couple pieces of brass I'm not sure what to do in that the brass is empty and the primer is goofed up somehow, and not sure what the best way to remove the primer is. I'm wondering if anyone has some tips on what I am doing incorrectly here. I am trying to decide if it's a 'how I put the primer in the tube' issue, or something else. What path should I take? Thanks. -
I've been watching prices for .223/5.56 ammo fall for a while now. I took up reloading for 3 gun rifle last Fall due to ammo availability, but now for close range hoser loads, I can buy 'em cheaper that I can load 'em. For the long range "accuracy" loads the difference per shell cost between "new" versus "reloads" is still significant. But in my case that don't matter. I'm way too happy with the results I've had with my home grown 77 gr loads. Either way, it means more shooting for less dollars. Bill
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Hello from BrassDepot.com Once fire Military Brass Specialist for 5.56, 300 AAC Blackout Brass and much more. We hold a class 7 FFL and always have price match and money back guarantee with all your brass needs. Thank you from BrassDepot.com
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Does anyone have any experience with the swager attachment for the 650 and has it caused any damage to your press? I'm thinking single stage will take forever and want to get some feedback on quality and risk/reward of possibly voiding warranty. why does this void the warranty?
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Well, I like to think I've sorted out many of the oddities that come with using a 550. I've loaded something like 1000 rounds a month on it for the past two years, and, well, I got a surprise. Last night, I was putting some .223 together for a major match in a couple weeks 'cause I am a procrastinating chumpasaurus. I did not notice upon decapping that the expander bell had made it into a case, so I got a messy surprise at the powder dispenser. I cleaned it up, figured I busted a decapping pin, then discovered I'd busted more than that, and had to figure out how to fish an expander bell out of a sized case. That part actually wasn't bad, but since I couldn't find the decapping pin, I then had a sizing-only die. That part, too, isn't a showstopper. I stuck my universal decapper on my single stage and made my Dillon way less progressive. I did about 30 more rounds this way before deciding it was bedtime. This morning, I decided to finish off the batch of 100 before work, and set about the same slow process, making sure to pay extra double attention to not screw myself up yet again. I didn't want any dies backing out, powder measure double-dispensing, or anything. I was good for a couple dozen, then I got this: I was more curious than angry, and after a minute of poking around the various parts of the press discovered the powder bar was not moving back and forth anymore. Ruh roh, Raggy. Then, I carefully emptied the powder hopper into a temporary container, and HELLO, a big metallic thing! I fished out the offending decapping pin with a magnet. The decapping pin made its way into the powder hopper. The powder bar still does not slide freely in the empty powder measure, so I am pretty sure it developed a burr or something from having a dang ol' decapping pin in it. Does this sound like a plausible conclusion? Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? More importantly, what prayer should I say to make holy water to exorcize this beast?
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I am trying to work up a load for the .224 Berger 75gr VLD bullets. The BC for these is significantly higher than for sierras or noslers so I'd like to have this load for long distance+high winds at 3gun. We routinely shoot to 500 - 600 yards so I get lots of practice at this. My normal load is 23.8 gr of 8208 with a 69gr smk, 2900 fps out of a 18" JP barrel. The groups I've shot with the Bergers so far on the 8208 have not been good so I'm thinking I need a slower powder. I'd love to test Varget but cannot find any. Anyone have success loading this bullet for 3gun?
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Not sure if this is the right section so, if not, feel free to move this where it needs to be but if you're looking to win a case of .223 check this out. www.bulkammo.com/rifle/bulk-.223-ammo#contest
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I think I saw alaskapopo mention better results with Hornady 55gr, while a few others said Xtremes are good to go. I'll likely pick up a 6k case of Hornady 55gr FMJ after the new year, but the current Xtreme 'discount' of 15% off makes them pretty much hard to beat on price until I pick up a case of 6k, at 8.5c/rd shipped. For those of you that have loaded them, are they more or less Hornady FMJ clones in shape/ogive/loads, or were your best loads for them significantly different than for Hornady bulk FMJ? (or of course - were you not able to develop a decent load with them/hate 'em, etc.?) Typical usage - 3 gun, carbine classes, plinking, general range use. For Hornady 55gr FMJ, running 24.5gr of TAC in a 1:9 barrel...
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I came into a good stash of LT32 and with the scarcity of my preferred powders I've been trying to work with it with limited success. I have the data from Accurate but my accuracy is inconsistent and velocities less than other powders even loading to Max with the 223 data. There are no over pressure signs and there is data for 5.56 which I'm considering working slowly into before giving up. Any one with experience and data on this, regardless of bullet weight, is greatly appreciated.
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I want to deprime my 223 brass before wet tumbling so I can get the primer pockets cleaned . Will the dirty brass make too big of a mess in my case feeder? I could use three tool heads ,here is my process 1. Deprime on press w/ Casefeeder. First toolhead 2. Wet tumble with stainless steel media-dry brass 3. Resize and trim on press. Second toolhead 4. Tumble off lube-dry brass 5. Powder charge, seat bullet. Third toolhead -
Has anyone heard our military is now shreading fired brass instead of selling it?
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I was talking to someone the other day while I wait on my 1050 to ship and he was telling me that he had been surprised at how long it takes the powder to drop into the 223 case when reloading. The case is so small there is nothing Dillon can do about it. However what he had thought to do was replace the Dillon powder measure with two RCBS style powder droppers since he thought they were slim enough to fit in two adjacent stations on the 1050. That way you could adjust them to drop half the powder load in each station and conceivably turn out reloads much faster. And I think (assuming they would fit) that you would have just enough stations to do this. Has anyone ever seen this or heard about it? Done it? Thought about it? And opinions? Crazy? or Wow! what a great idea... etc...
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Do the MG 55gr fmjs have a boat tail? What about the MG 50gr hp? Haven't heard much about the MG 50gr hp. Are they as accurate as the MG 55gr, and would they work well in a 1-8 twist barrel?
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