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  1. Hi all, I have a 5” prodigy as a backup LO gun. I’ve been wanting to build my own 2011 for a bit now and was wondering if I’m insane for thinking I could get a new barrel in 38SC and fit it, drill/tap frame for optics mount etc. Anyone out ther try it or have any constructive advice?
  2. I’d like to put together a compact 2011 specifically for carry. I’m primarily looking at a staccato or Cheely grip on a Brazos or JEM slide and frame set. A round butt C2/VIP grip would be decent, but I noticed SVI makes 113mm mags. As cool as the SVI compact carry grip is, it’s got a pretty hefty price tag around $750+ with options… So I was thinking that using a 120 mm C2/VIP grip chopped to use SVI 113mm mags would be half the cost and lighter. People chop/notch out full size grips for 120mm mags all the time… So what’s to stop me from chopping a 120mm grip for 113mm mag’s? Does an SVI mag work in a VIP (gen1) or C2 ODS (gen2) grip? If not, why not; what else needs modified to make it work? I’ve seen varying reports of compatibility of SVI mags in STI/staccato/Cheely/etc grips. I’m not sure which to believe or if it’s a generational thing or what’s compatible and what’s not. Worst case scenario I guess would be to just shorten some regular 120/126/140 staccato or MBX mags tubes to 113mm… it shouldn’t be THAT hard. But I’d rather just buy a couple quality 113mm mags and then carry 140’s for reloads.
  3. Like many, Springfield Armory caught my interest when they announced the Prodigy 1911 DS. When I would make a list in my mind of everything an ideal home and carry gun would have, I kept coming back time and again to a Wilson EDC9 or a Staccato C2. Of course, they would put me squarely in the "mortgage down payment" territory, and that would be too hard a pill to swallow. Even the most inattentive spouse would notice the equivalent of a used Corolla's worth of cash missing from the college fund. Then comes the Prodigy, checking all those same boxes: double stack, railed, optics ready, ~4" bull barrel, classic components that allow for unlimited tinkering. A few weeks stalking Gunbroker, and I find a deal worth the squeeze, and come to own this highly controversial unicorn. By then, word of reliability and function issues had spread far and wide, as if Springfield fell victim to election season oppo research. So I knew there would need to be changes made to get this Toyota Camry of 2011's into fighting shape. To that end, I ordered 3 components that I estimated would solve the lion's share of cycling issues that folks have been reporting: - Brazos Custom Tuned Trigger Group: - This was the heart of what I wanted to try. A pre-fit and stoned, matched set of sear and hammer with pre-bent spring. I have some faith I could stone my own sear and hammer with the right jig, but the idea of a trigger-job in a bag was enticing, especially when it would take the factors of my own failure out of the equation. There were paltry reviews on this kit, so I hope this serves as a more comprehensive rundown for prospective buyers. - EGW Ball head long disconnector - Some have reported that Prodigy slide hanging on the factory disconnector has caused issues, and it made sense to swap out the OEM for something else. Buying a $175 trigger kit to just leave a MIM factory disco in the gun would have felt like buying three new tires and leaving a donut. Luckily, Brazos had some EGW's in stock. I could argue a $200 package could include a new disco, but I'm a notoriously unsuccessful businessman, so take that with a grain of salt. - Fusion flat K-hole 2011 trigger - I like flat triggers. This was the cheapest one in stock at the time. Needed more fitting than I thought, though! (more on this below). - Additionally, I added an EGW Block slide stop in 9mm size. The Prodigy's slide stop is recessed into the frame, which is neat in theory, but a massive pain to engage with my gnome thumbs. The EGW needed fitting, as the post was a few microns too think to let the barrel move freely. Some elbow grease and escalating grit sandpaper (600-5000) fixed that in 25 minutes or so. The Prodigy's stock, out-of-the-box, trigger was an okay, consistent 5#, slightly creepy, but decently crisp. For a factory pull, it was fine, but the short travel on a 1911 trigger meant that heavier pulls tend to throw me off target a tad. I compete with a Shadow, which forgives all sins. John Moses Browning was less gracious. FITTING THE PARTS: The Prodigy came apart fairly easily. In fairness, this was my first >$1000 1911, so maybe that's to be expected. I've had RIA's and Tisas in the past that weren't necessarily tightly fit, just clumsily put together and stuck in place, which I think is the difference. The fit and finish on my Prodigy was excellent, and I didn't feel the usual buyer's remorse once I finally got it in my hands. I'm personally very sensitive to cut-corners, and I didn't find too many with the Prodigy, except ONE: The grip screws on my model and made of some Chinese pot metal dug from a weakness bog in a county of losers. One unscrewed easily, but the right hand side hex screw stripped almost instantly, then immediately bound in the threads. Now, it's possible I'm an idiot, but I do know how to unscrew stuff, even if it's expensive. So I tried the rubber band trick, then the oversized bit trick, then I cut a screw driver slot into it, then I made that cut a phillips head, then I resorted to a screw extractor (which snapped), then I tried the ol' JB Weld trick with added WD40 from the other side to unbind the threads. Absolutely none of that budged the screw. Like Arthur's sword, it was in that thing for eons. The only thing that FINALLY worked was getting the exact right star bit, hammering it deep into the soft metal slot, and unscrewing with all the strength that's left in my rotator cuff. The screw is destroyed, the grip is marred, it has no resale value, so this gun is mine until the sun burns out. Springfield customer service over the phone was actually nice enough to send a replacement set, so at least it won't look like street trash from a distance. I just tell myself guns are a tool, and I wouldn't cry about a scratch on my impact driver, but there's no getting around this ugly gouge in the polymer. THE IGNITION COMPONENTS: The Brazos bits all fit immediately. Zero fitting necessary, and they were pre-polished as advertised. The EQW disco fell right in as well, though I did polish it, removing some of the blue, but getting it properly slick. Everything was heated and treated with Frog Lube, which I have had outstanding success with in the past. I will remain on my "Frog Lube works if you read the f*#king directions" soap box until I die. Honestly, I can't say very much about fitting the Brazos kit, because it was entirely uneventful. They literally dropped in, interfaced with the factory pins just fine, and moved freely when lubed. Being boring here is good. The only fitting I needed to do was file the factory thumb safety to clear the new sear, but that's super common, and I've had to do that with all my 1911's. It took 5 minutes with a file, and when fit back in, the safety was still tight and clicked with authority. I have no reservations about using it under stress. The Fusion trigger needed some cutting, as the overtravel screw didn't allow the bow to move far enough back to hit the disco. Even when backed all the way out, I still needed a millimeter or two of clearance space. I read in some buried forum thread that others have experienced this, and that the fusion bow is a tad short. No problem a Dremel cutter shaving off the last two threads of the screw didn't instantly fix, though. Once the safety was filed and trigger screw cut, everything fit back together easily, and I began function testing, seeing where the sharp edges I might have missed would show up. To my surprise: nowhere. The Brazos kit worked flawlessly once everything else was adjusted. Once the trigger could clear, and the safety could disengage, the Prodigy ran like a Swiss clock. The trigger pull obviously dropped massively, but stayed crisp, and the minimal creep was entirely gone. I cannot move my finger a short enough distance to actually feel how much the sear engages the hammer. There might technically be "creep," but I cannot physically perceive it. As you can see, the pull weight dropped to 1.75#. This is what I call psychic range, where I just have to think, and the hammer drops. Overall, I couldn't be happier with the Brazos kit. It's possible I could have achieved a similar result by installing a Lite Speed or Warp Speed kit from Extreme Engineering, but there's no guarantee, and I simply don't have the tools and experience to fit parts like Brazos clearly can. There's also the Nighthawk drop-in trigger, but I don't think I'd be comfortable modifying it to get to where I want to be, not to mention the high cost to play. The Brazos Tuned Trigger Group kit get a resounding recommendation from me. WARNING: One note about the Springfield Prodigy when mounting an optic: Be careful of the length of your screw and how much loctite you use. In mounting my Holosun 407k, I ended up leaking blue loctite through into the extractor channel, and bleeding it on to the barrel.
  4. Posting this as it may help those to acquire 2011/1911 frames that may not be on the MD Roster. Apparently a few months back changed the rules but has not informed FFLs of the update. 2011/1911 frames were always required to be on the roster here in MD. Meaning of JEM or PT hadn't submitted a frame to MD State Police for review and approval/disapproval, you could not take ownership of it. rewind to about a month ago when i was talking to Matt Cheely and I mentioned it would be real nice to have one of his frames but the MD rooster doesn't list them. i did some research and had him send a frame to md state police for review and most likely approval. Matt wrote me back and said md police sent the frame back to him as just recently frames were not required to be on the roster. Out of 5 ffls local to me, non of them knew this and stated that any frame needed to be on the md roster in order to transfer ownership. i had my usual ffl contact md state police and they confirmed this was correct, that 2011/1911 frames were not required to be on the roster. Hope this helps someone in their future build(s)!
  5. I'm having another gun built and would like insight on the following two (mockups) ideas. A few things to note: Only for local steel matches, no USPSA, IPSC 2011 only as I have plenty of mags and enjoy the weight of the gun Shooting factory (minor pf) rounds only Using SS cheely grip Using atlas slide for either style (open/atlas optic system) 5in govt slide w/kkm bull barrel NO comp as my limited gun using the same parts barely moves during recoil DLC for final finish Any and all thoughts or recommendations are much appreciated. First option is a 5in atlas slide milled for their optic plate system, tritopped, and panel cuts Second option is a 5in atlas slide with rear swoop cut, panel cuts and atlas frame mount for RDS
  6. From a box of parts (atlas, egw and cheely) to a complete race ready gun two days later… Gary Natale of Gans Guns in PA is pretty amazing. He’s built three previously for me. This is the first one with mostly Atlas and Cheely parts as well as a steel grip. Less than the cost of a staccato p duo.
  7. I'am try to build my first 2011 9mm for uspas open,i did search but doesn't help me to list all parts and questions for build, need you guys building and using experience, please school me how to build it tight and accurate for open, will post all step and parts list with photo after job done ,hope can help the people who like me as well. Questions: what's the most difficult part to build my own 2011? how to build accurate open 2011? Parts List: slide: frame: cheely/ptrinity... grip: cheely/ptrinity... etc....
  8. I happen to find a local shooter last year that has a decent setup behind his house for using his Ransom Rest. He's been a long time Bullseye Competitor and has only used his rest for 1911 style pistols. I purchased a set of grip panels for the STI/McCormick widebody and we used it with (what I thought) pretty good success. Of course he did the setup and operation. Fast forward to this year and we decide to get together again to test some of my RL1100 ladder loads. Don't think we ever got the STI settled just right as results were all over the place. Michael Ransom shared that I should be treating it like a polymer framed pistol (Glock) and to make sure not to overtighten as it can cause less than desirable results. Said to make sure the mag will drop freely and there was free travel on the trigger return. And that A and C will generally be tighter than B. Trying this gives me the impression that the pistol is just not secured enough in the grip panels to keep the pistol from stringing/poor results. Also, there's only a few threads on the thumb screws when it's "snug" in the grip panels. Any seasoned Ransom Rest users here that can shed some light on the CORRECT way to set up a stock/polymer gripped STI 2011? I sure would appreciate it!
  9. I don't see any A/M/GAs running TSOs . With major power loads does the 2011 style trigger matter more the faster you go? Do you think a hinged trigger contributes to pulling the second shot of a pair low vs a 2011 trigger - all other things being equal.
  10. I finished my first 2011 build. To my surprise it actually shoots and it is more accurate than I am. I am having some reliability issues, though. First issue is a sticking of the slide. When to the gun starts to get hot after a few rounds, the slide begins to get stuck in battery and it takes a lot of force to rack the slide and eject the spent casing. When the gun cools down again, seems to work fine for a bit. Any ideas on why this is happening?
  11. Hey guys I’m hoping for some help because I’ve never owned a 1911/2011 and I’m planning on jumping feet first and doing a build. i currently own a Glock 40 for the woods, an HK USP45 tac for home, and a 9mm target gun. I’ve been getting into 80% lowers and Cnc and I have been considering trying to replace all 3 pistols with essentially 1 2011 frame/trigger and a 9mm, 10mm, and 45 slide. Is it possible to interchange slides like this? Are the magazines all the same size? any help would be greatly appreciated, it’s hard to find info online and I really am jumping into This blind.
  12. looking for a 2011 in 9mm would like it to be IDPA legal. so far looked at the STI Eagle 5.0 and it appears that the STI maurauder is IDPA legal . ESP class anyway. any ones that I am missing ?
  13. I don't know why no one offers a 1911 sized polymer grip for the 2011 frames. I searched but haven't seen one. Seems like a viable product. Make a 2011 style polymer grip so it accepts single stack mags and voila! I'm thinking it would be a lower cost way to build a 1911. Thoughts?
  14. I bought a used 2011 and I am trying to find a 9mm barrel but nothing looks quite the same. link to the pictures because I can't post them due to the size limit. https://imgur.com/a/8HFXGFl
  15. I watched he reveal last night on shooters mindset show. Considering this instead of a custom open build. I dont even know where to start with questions. What do do you guys think? From Facebook Ordering for the Special Release of the first 28 Honcho Guns opens at 12:00pm eastern time. To order send us an email with your contact information and which model you’d like to order. The first 28 time stamped emails received after 12:00pm EST will be accepted. These special editions include “Red Carpet Service” where you will be able to follow along with your build with an inside look via pictures, videos and interviews with Honcho himself. Here is what each of the models include: Honcho 3Gun $4,850 Complete Pistol with 9mm Barrel Stainless or Aluminum EVO Grip BAM Magwell by EMG Customs 40cal Barrel Sight Block 3 Port Comp Vortex Viper 6moa RMR Rear Iron Sight Shielded Ambi Safety 7 Complete MBX Magazines 1-170mm Big Stick 9/38SC 3-140mm 40cal 2-140mm 9/38SC Custom Patriot Case A Whole Lot of Awesomeness Honcho Race Ready $6,850 Complete Pistol with 38SC Barrel Stainless EVO Grip BAM Magwell by EMG Customs 40cal Barrel 9mm Barrel Sight Block 3 Port Comp Vortex Razor with Side Mount Rear Iron Sight Shielded Ambi Safety 7 Complete MBX Magazines 1-170mm Big Stick 9mm 3-140mm 40cal 3-140mm 9mm Custom Dual Layer Patriot Case Everything You Need to Kick Butt
  16. Long story short. I've got a local gunsmith that's going to fit the barrel slide and frame and I'm going to try to do the rest of the work with some help from a family member. Looking for suggestions on parts. Eventually I'd like to turn this thread into a build log and update it a long the way. Right now im in the research stage of my build but I think I have a few things figured out: Caspian 5" slide Bar-Sto 5" bull barrel Pheonix trinity frame Polymer grips ( planing on an evo ) Egw ignition kit Caspian extractor SV medium flat trigger SV extra wide ambi FGW grip plug This is what I'm thinking so far just throwing it out there for advice or things you all have learned in your experiences building on the 2011 platform. Gonna piece it together slowly and availability on a lot of the parts I'd like is hit and miss. I'd rather have a Schumann/SV 5" bull barrel but no one has them. PT is currently 6-8 weeks out on frames and is working from a list. Kind Regards, AndyG
  17. Is a Brand New 2011 STI Trubor for $2325 a good deal? (shipping is included) Thank you!.
  18. Just got a new STI DVC shot about 300 rounds total and worried about the contact that is happening between the barrel and the slide. It looks as though the barrel it’s twisting a bit when it’s unlocked and contacting the slide on both sides of the hood extension of the barrel. I’ve included a picture of where it’s deforming the slide a bit. I contacted STI and they said don’t worry about it, and this is normal with the tight tolerances they have with their fitting. This just doesn’t seem right to me so thought I’d check here with many more guys who have a lot more experience than I do. The gun functions well, no misfeeds, failure to go into battery etc at all.
  19. Gun lubrication for shooting in cold weather was discussed a lot. What about cold - below 10C / 50F and rainy weather? New to 2011, my STI SteelMaster runs beautifully with FP-10 or Gun Butter. I was shooting in a 10C weather recently - no problem until a moderate rain started. After about 30min of shooting small drills and going back and forth between the box and tent, slide started to slow down and gun progressed to FTE and FTF. The SteelMaster is a nice tight fit, but my other CZ-based Open guns with relatively more slide to frame free play works in rain just fine with the same oils for hours. I also saw quite a bit of STI owners - running 40 cal. Limited Major - having similar problems in competitions on rainy days. Should I just keep adding more oil to rails during training or match? Any special treat to mags?
  20. Flat-Topped w/Serrations only Flat-Topped w/Serrations and Lightening Holes
  21. Hey guys, As my gun tastes have been growing increasingly more expensive, I just started looking into STI's and Atlas Gun Works 2011's. As I was about to put an order in for a 2011, I was asked questions I have no capability of competently answering. Things like trigger bow stuff, short/med/long. I don't know what else to mention, as my only real experience is in the Glock realm, and some CZ experience. Can anyone tell me where to start? Basically, I'd like to order a 2011 for Limited Major. Thanks guys
  22. After struggling for a couple of years to get my Edge to work, my wife offered to help me get a nice custom build - the last straw was a major stoppage at the IPSC World Shoot while she was watching - she was "and why haven't you ordered the new gun yet?" Anyway, here in Europe there aren't as many gun builders as in the States, but I was lucky to get in touch with probably the best gun builder from neighbouring Italy - was a wait of several months but, man was it worth it! Here she is, my RV Custom "Vampire" in .40 S&W. Cerakoted to my specs, stippled grip, unbelievable fit, everything blended perfectly...and a balance that has to be experienced to be believed. She's actually heavier than my Edge, but feels lighter because the centre of gravity is just above my knuckles. She settles back from recoil every so sweetly and consistently - nothing as compared to a factory gun. The barrel lockup is out of this world - it's actually his special touch. Busy running her in right now - 1650 flawless rounds already sent downrange - another 2K to go before her first overseas level III in Vienna in mid April. Apologies for the cruddy cellphone pic - it doesn't do her justice. Just had to share
  23. Is there any difference other than size between the different manufacturers? I want to put a *thumb rest [generic]* on my new 2011 but not sure which 1 to get.. Thanks for the help
  24. Background: Been shooting Tupperware + CZ Shadow for a while. Finally got my act together and got an STI Edge. (I have multiple 1911s). Went to the range to put it through its paces. Now I have been working on my grip especially rotating my Left Hand 'forward'/thumb away from body. I have seemed to eliminate trigger jerk, despite still anticipating recoil--thats not the point of this post. Something was slapping my RIGHT thumb as it rode the safety. I suspect it is my gripping the gun tightly and feeling the slide moving. This was something new as I do not have this issue on my normal 1911s. Anu suggestions on what might be causing this? Am I gripping to tight? DO I just let my thumb sit on the safety and not squeeze? When I first started my thumbs would go any which way into space on not even touch the gun--perhaps I have over corrected? Also it seemed that .40 was a lot more snappy that I remembered--especially for a big pistol like the edge. Not sure if this is my new grip, new round, etc. Before I could have sworn there is no difference between 9,40 and 45. Am I just becoming more aware? Or do I need to tweak the gun. I've shot a 45 1911 a lot over the years--never had any 'comfort' issues, but I did really notice the 40 was recoiling--we're not talking .357 mag or anything but it was a noticable step up over 9mm. (Full disclosure--I have a beretta 96 and have shot it tons, just not lately) Also someone call the STI haters. My gun is broken. Feeds Hollowpoints (had some junky 135 HP that were discounted years back. Yes 135 gr hollowpoints), Flat nose, etc without issue. Trigger is meh out of the box, but thats compared to 'My' 1911 which I have tweaked to perfection over the years. Best shooting I've done at 15 yards in a while though. Biggest issue was LOADING the mag as those 40 rounds don't like to slide all the way back.
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