470nitro

Have been considering this upper for my first precision rifle build. Has anyone had experience, good or bad, with this particular upper? Also, any fit issues to particular lowers or handguards?

For me, 124/125 shot better in my gun and were cheaper.

Racemaster for me is the best I've found. I shoot bullets out and position my pouches the same way for both Limited and Production. I liked Ghost but the mounting bracket on the belt is a little wider and seemed to force wider spacing between pouches. The Racemaster (and I'm sure Racer also) allows tighter spacing if that matters to you. If you are not on a tight budget, the Racemaster or Racer can pretty much set them up to do nearly anything which helps if you like trying different positions as your skill changes. Can't speak to bullets forward-only but CR Speed Versa's have been the dominant brand out there for years.

Love the Racemaster. Holds mags securely, can go bullets out, plenty of adjust-ability for tension and cant angle. Held my bullets out position better than my Guga Ribas pouches. Can't speak to the Racers for bullets out orientation but the shooters in our MN area clubs mostly run bullets forward and love them.

For a belt, I own both CR Speed and DAA and haven't noticed a difference. They look and feel nearly identical. If I were to buy new, I'd probably go with Shooters Connection as I doubt I'd personally notice the difference.

I shoot bullets-out and had used Guga Ribas pouches and switched to DAA two years ago. Best decision I could have made. The Guga pouches were well made but for me they kept shifting/rotating where the pouch tightens down to the belt clamp, no matter how tight I tightened them. This may have had more to do with my belly size than the design of the pouch assembly. Again, for me the Guga pouches worked well for years.....just not as well as the DAA once I tried them.

Agree with Dr. Mitch. A 2011 is a beautiful thing regarding the trigger if properly tuned and is in a league unto itself compared to any striker trigger. For me, I'd never go back to the Glock (unless for production). Still, then I'd pick the Shadow instead.

I love my Edge as a backup for my Brazos. When the Brazos SC wearsh out, I'm shooting the Edge exclusively for USPSA. As Woodsk mentioned, if not shooting IDPA, I'd go Edge without hesitation. Plus, it freakin looks so cool compared to a slim dust cover.

Blade Tech DOH

I love my DAA aluminum pouches. Due to my fat mid-section and simply overall preference, I've loved the ability of the DAA pouches to be switched from bullets forward to bullets out. I believe one has to practice both before determining which will work better for them (which is faster). I started bullets forward and later found that bullets out worked better for me anyway. Yes, Ghost Products pouches allow bullets out but the minimum spacing between pouches is much greater than the DAA. Starting in this sport, I don't believe you can go wrong with DAA.

From my angle, the 5" Edge style is ideal for Limited competition and as it's indexing and comfort for HD, for me anyway, is not an issue, it is the ideal compromise as a weapon that can accommodate both SD and competition. If you are not overly accustomed to 2011 style pistols, you will probably notice little difference in feel initially between the two models. Most importantly, with dry and live fire practice, you will adapt to whatever you buy so consider go with what you would prefer from a feel and asthetics standpoint.

Just go to: http://www.uspsa.org/squadding and select 2012 Wisconsin Sectionals. You'll see that there are plenty left right now.

You will not go wrong getting Brian's advice and buying the press from him. About everything I've learned about progressive press reloading I've gotten from him or his videos. Video on reloading is great if you're just starting out with a progressive. Started with 550B only and later added strong mount, bullet tray and roller handle and glad I added every one. Wish I would have started that way IMHO. I sit when I reload on my Rock Chucker and my Redding Ultra-Mag but prefer to stand when running my Dillon.

Use FP10 and never an issue regardless of weather (30 degrees to 110). Easy to remove when cleaning (soapwater in the sink). That said, Mobil 1 is great and bonds like nothing else I've tried but tougher to remove when cleaning. Heard great things about Militec but never tried it.

BINGO!!! That was it. Won't forget that one anytime soon. Thanks a ton everyone.

Guys: First time disassembling/reassembling my Shadow. All went pretty well until attempting to reinstall the sear/ejector cage subassembly. Placing it into the frame, I cannot get the cage in a position where the hole is centered where the safety lever shaft goes. Through the hole in the frame, it looks like the sear/ejector cage hole is too far forward by nearly 0.080" or so +- 0.020". If I remove the small hammer pin retaining peg, it allows it to go to the correct position to completely install the safety. I can see rub marks where the lower back edge of the cage is contacting retaining peg but there does not seem to be a way to get the peg in any deeper as it's flush with the bottom of the hammer pin hole on the LH side of the frame. Any ideas of what am I doing wrong?

I recommend this as well. It think it's pretty hard to get an AD if you support the whole tension of the hammer before you pull the trigger. No surprises. I use the support-hand-thumb-and-index-finger approach. Ditto on that. I use the pinch method all the time but just this weekend worked on pulling the hammer back before pulling the trigger. MUCH better. Thanks 'squirrels!

I did the same thing just after buying a used Shadow. I thought I was the only one who did this so I never posted. Wish I would have posted now and glad you did. Now I spray the interior and spray a cleaning cloth to wipe off the outside, avoiding the safety mark. There has to be a better way/solvent to do this. Sounds like the polymer-safe Gunscrubber might be the way to go.

Everybody: First of all, thanks to all of you for the fast and accurate replies. Was out all week and finally today had some time to try to replicate the problem. Thanks to you, while I originally could not duplicate the issue, I made maybe a 1/16 turn in on the overtravel screw and the hammer would never drop. Must have been right on the edge of not working. I also took the advice of several of you and incrementally backed out the screw testing between movements by holding the trigger and rocking the hammer until I felt nothing dragging which I did initially before backing the screw out. At the end, I could feel contact of the hammer with something near the half cock point even if I withdrew the screw completely out of play. Called CZ Custom and Eric there felt fairly certain that the hammer itself was likely making light contact with the frame at that point as apparently some hammers do, particularly the non-competition hammer which I have on mine. He told me that if that was the case, not to worry about it. Again, I really appreciate the help.

Not 100% on this but I believe it was free to move. Felt very much like having the thumb safety on (cocked & locked). So far, I haven't had this happen in double action, just single.

Guys: Could use some help on an issue I saw today for the 2nd time in two weekends with a CZ Custom Shadow from CZ Custom. CZ75 Shadow Custom from Angus.Pistol used during a stage, working fine through 1-4 magazines and suddenly hammer won't drop when the trigger is depressed. Safety is totally off and slide appeared to be in full battery (I stopped and stared at both areas both times). First time happened in the middle of a stage last weekend, but I just racked the slide and resumed shooting. Wasn't a problem afterward that day. Today, had just finished a stage and after unload and show clear, released the slide and pulled the trigger and hammer again wouldn't drop. As stage was over, I really took my time checking the safety and even tried pressing down again. Checked and verified the slide was fully closed and in battery also. Racked slide once and still no hammer drop when pulling trigger. Finally racked a second time and hammer dropped as it was supposed to. At safety table afterwards, no problems at all getting hammer to fall on empty chamber (couldn't replicate issue). Have any of you seen something like this before and if so, any ideas of what I should check before I call CZ Custom Monday morning. Thanks in advance.

The correct fix is changing the front sight height or instead modifying the load you are using. I had a load developed for my M&P with 124gr MG CMJ that I tried using on my new Shadow with 6.0 mm tall front and it would consistently print 4" high at 21 yards. Similar with WWB and Federal American Eagle. Knowing I was so high, I talked with the CZ Custom guys and ended up buying a much taller 7.5 mm front sight (as they don't sell a 7.0 mm). Point of impact shifted down to about 1.0" below front sight dot. Proved that the 6.5 mm would probably not have been enough. Then I changed my loads to a 125gr Zero JHP and modified my overall length to accommodate the JHP. Shooting shifted to around 4" low. Went back to the standard 6.0 mm front sight and impact is just above the front sight FO at 21. Perfect for me. Depending, you may want to look at Dawson for their Shadow replacement blades if your problem was like mine (really needed a 7.0 mm for my old load).

Regarding marking, I do have a holster wear mark on the front LH corner of the dust cover (referenced when looking at the rear of the slide) on my Shadow. Finish is worn down right to bare metal. Anyone else have the same issue using a Bladetech DOH?

Matt did a really nice job with those cuts. Jordan, that's just a the standard $118.00 Tripp K-1 sight? Any mods needed to it?