Triggerf16

Winchester .308 brass is 20 grains lighter than Lake City brass.

Brian. Supports the forum, gets you help and advice placing your order to make sure you have exactly the press and accessories you need. Sometimes if you want one press, but two or three calibers, ordering can be confusing. Brian walks you through that and makes it painless. Shipping is cheaper, and sometimes bullet trays are free. I have ordered several presses from him, and sent two friends to him as well.

Does the GSI toolhead for the 650 (with the vacuum port) only work for the 300 blk trim die, or will it work for .223 and .308 as well? I reload a lot of calibers, and need to trim .223, .308. With the possibility of 300 blk down the road. I'm planning on an RT1500 trimmer, but I'm not sure about the rest, trimmer tool-heads, GSI dies, Dillon trim dies, etc.

I have found that if you seat the mag firmly 90-degrees to the barrel axis, the slide does not release. But if you seat the mag at a 45-degree angle to the barrel axis, pushing forward from the heel of the frame to the muzzle as you seat the magazine home, the slide will auto release every time. I think when you goose the frame forward as you seat the mag, it releases the tension on the slide stop and allows the spring to release the slidestop from the slide, sending the slide forward.

Just got this put back together. Thanks to Canyon Creek for welding a piece of metal for the safety extension, Cheely Custom for machining the slide, CZ Custom for the bushing and Yousef and IonBond for the coating. ] I like those grips. Who makes them?

Looks good. How did you lower the rear sight, mill it down and recut the notch? I wish I had a mill. I installed the front sight, and measured the height difference. I then used hand files to lower the rear sight the same amount, and recut the sight notch. All hand work, working slowly and carefully. I shot the gun to confirm the sight settings before completion. I like the factory sight because it serves as a slide racker. The reverse slide rails on the CZ mean I have less slide to grip, so the sight serves additional duty. I did not want to use the factory adjustable sight just for that reason.

That looks like a really nicely done grip reduction. It looks like it could have been that way from the factory. Any tips for the rest of us planning on doing one ourselves soon? Thanks! As far as tips, I scribed lines on the frame where the grip panels went, so I had lines I could cut to. I used a rotary drum for about half, and hand files for the other half the work. Polished it all with emery paper, then sand-blasted before dura-coat. I then went back and reduced the grips in the back after I had the frame cut to the size I liked (before finishing).

I will chip with my own thoughts. I owned an ACR. I really liked shooting it, and it ran clean, even with a can. Then I ran the ACR in a shooting course with a lot of timed drills for speed. I could not get the ACR to run as fast as an AR. My split times with the ACR were slower. This is against an AR with a JP LMOS and silent captured spring system. I voted with my wallet and sold the ACR for a JP SCR-11. I am very happy with the change. I will admit the ergonomics of the stock ACR are better. But I was able the change the SCR to the way I like it: phase 5 lever, ergo tac grip. Changes I could not make to an ACR. To each their own. I like the ACR, but it did not run the way I like it at speed. I've dealt with similar issues with pistols. I liked them, but found an issue that could not be solved, and meant I needed to switch to a different design.

Here is my TS. I replaced the front sight with a CZCustom fiber optic, lowered the rear sight, CZCustom aluminum trigger, full frame reduction, reduced the wooden grips, and refinished in DuraCoat FDE.