practical_man

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About practical_man

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    Calls Shots

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    Male
  • Location
    Seoul -- better than Kabul but not much
  • Real Name
    john dejarnette

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  1. Jeremy Warren gives great advice on everything. I will I'll add that you can dimple the bottom of the sight with a prick punch or center punch. That will tighten the fit a little. I tend to do both
  2. JD For a toy (not serious competition), I like the S&W M&P series. Good basic rifle with decent parts. Can be had for less than $500. I have one and like it a lot. It's my favorite range toy rifle, next to the 10/22. The Soringfield Saint looks promising. BiL has one. I can shoot MOA out to 300 (max limit of our range). 1:8 twist barrel and mid length gas system. It's a lot like what I would spec out for a build. They are running $750 around here, when they can be found. I also have a heavily modified Colt that I use fo CMP service rifle. It started Box stock because I didn't know better. A trip to Frank White at Compass Lake and now it actually shoot decent groups. Franks work cost more than the base rifle. I would not buy a Colt now. I am considering a Saint. Hoping they come out with an 18" barrel version and rifle gas system.
  3. If you feel brave, put the pin in a padded vise and gently squeeze. This will make us slightly larger and a snugger fit in frame. I would only do one end. Alternatively you could dimple one end of the pin with a prick punch to achieve the same result. This is the method I use to "stretch" parts. It works very well. Nail polish is temporary at best. Especially if the pin has any oil at all. It will increase pin diameter until is chips away.
  4. Neck separation can be caused by oversizing. A small "ring" of metal builds up at the shoulder, creating a stress line around the case. I'm sure a metallurgist can explain how the metal flows at a microscopic level... I can feel the ring with a little bent paperclip run down the case wall. It's a PITA to do this, and I don't do it every loading. I spot check after the 4th loading of a batch of brass, then every other loading thereafter. That way I know when to toss the brass. I also quit using Federal brass for more than 2 reloads because it is so soft. YMMV
  5. I use 5.4 grains of WSF under a 115 grain XTP to get superb 50 yard accuracy. It doesn't quite make major but it is a stiff minor load. For 9mm I like WSF much better than WST.
  6. Have you looked at locking block or something simple like a worn out mag catch? i had a cracked locking block in my 34 years ago. Accuracy and reliability went to hell all the sudden.
  7. ToolGuy is on target with recommendation for an L frame. They are much more durable than the kframe. If budget is an issue, you would be money ahead to keep shooting what you have while you save for a used 625 or 25. Unless of course you want both. That said, a couple years ago I bought a couple police trade in K frames for about $250 each. They were holster worn but in decent mechanical order. You just have to watch for those deals. I found mine when a prison traded in their revolvers for bottom feeders. I like the L frame revolvers a lot. Accessories are cheap compared to bottom feeders. All this stuff is cheap compared to diapers and formula my youngest is 18 months old. Ultimately up to you to decide what game you want to play. A good way is to brown bag lunch and save your lunch money for the shooting iron you really want.
  8. That sure looks like pending separation to me. Slide a bent paper clip clip along the inside case wall. If you feel a groove you know for sure it's split. I would toss it in the recycling bin.
  9. Not in Super. I use 5.4 grains WSF and 115 grain JHp in 9mm with good result for 50 yard accuracy.
  10. I dont vary from book on shotshells because the pressure tolerances are very narrow. Changing components can have ddramatic effects. Some hulls have tapered walls and smaller volumes than similar looking hulls of the same gauge. Remington vs Federal are good examples. Other have paper base wads vs plastic 1 or 2 piece base wads. The list of variables goes on... I stick to published load data by hull type, wad type, and primer type. 209 primers vary quite a bit in brissiance, with expected varaince in pressures. Some 209 primers even have larger external diameters. So, i stick to published loads. I do substitute ClayBuster brand wads wherever possible, following Claybuster load data whe the powder manufacturer doesnt list data for claybuster wads. Wad substitution is fairly well documented I am much more willing to mix and match components with metallic rifle and pistol cartridges. Much more room for error than with shotgun shells.
  11. I have a mk2. It developed a feed problem during Bullseye season. BLUF: fouling buildup inside the chamber and on the magazines. Cleaned chamber with a .25 cal bore brush and ultrasonic cleaner cured it, but not until after I replaced magazines, changed ammo and cursed like a mad man for weeks. The MK 2 is a great pistol. When it decides not to run, it can be vexing.
  12. Reed Dont be put off by the early problems with 929. The same problems exist in any model. S&W will fix any manufacturer defects. They are very good about warranty work. Also dont overweight the Performance Center label. I have seen no quality differences between PC and regular production revolvers. It all all comes down to whether you want to shoot rimmed 38 ammo or rimless 9mm. Since you have said you will buy moon clips, there's no advantage either way on accessories. You will get action work done or do it yourself (it's not difficult) on either revolver. No advantage there. Handloading will enhance your reaults with either because you can develop a load to match your game and shooting style. Don't give factory ammo any weight in your comparison, except maybe component cost (about equal anyway). Make your choice and don't look back. Like I said earlier, I am heavily invested in 38 caliber revolvers. That said, I am actively looking for a 986, L-frame 7 shot 9mm revolver. Whike you are deciding, get a Lyman reloading handbook, and one from the bullet maker you like (Hornady, Sierra, Nosler, etc). Start studying on making your own ammo. Understand the process and how components affect results. It might help you decide on a revo. Ultimately, take comfort that you won't have any trouble selling either revo if you decide you don't like it.
  13. Reed you have the right idea with moon clips and such. Buy once, cry once. Starline brass is simply superb. It lasts forever and is pretty uniform. Get your handloading gear before you buy a revolver. It will pay for itself quickly given the current cost of revo ammo. Any fast pistol or shotgun powder, federal primers (or Winchester in a pinch), and a good cast bullet. I use Bullseye, Titegroup, clays, and red dot in 38 - depending on what's available. All work well. Quality bullets make the accuracy difference for me. I dont recommend the PC shop revolvers. My experience with them over the last 15 years has been uniformly disappointing. If you thought a 6" Ruger was unwieldy you might seriously consider the 4" revo. Please try to shoot the PC and Pro 627s a couple times before you plunk down your cash. Also watch for a used one on this forum. Don't get in a big rush. Why should you care? I have been shooting S&W revolvers since I bought my first police trade in about 35 years ago. I currently have two 627s and really like them. The 4" barrel is fine (my 625 and 629 are 5" guns). All that said, I am always on the lookout for a 5" barrel to put in one of my 627s just to try out. Also, don't overlook the 929 In 9mm. If you already shoot a botttome feeder, a 9mm revo might simplify things. If I weren't already an avid 38 shooter, I would buy the 929. Hope yhis helps. -John
  14. Thanks. My wife just reminded me that we also had an epic fault with Crucial brand RAM. Appreciate the help. I am NOT a computer guy by any stretch of imagination. I get by with following instructions and trying to duplicate the success of others. Come to think of it, that's how I approach shooting too
  15. What brand RAM are you using? my wife has a 2013 that has been nothing but trouble. Unusual since she has used MAC forever. We tried RAMJET memory and that made problems worse. She wants to update OS but is concerned it will cause problems again. Can't really accept problems as the Mac is her primary photo editor used in a side gig.