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About practical_man

  • Rank
    Calls Shots

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    Seoul -- better than Kabul but not much
  • Real Name
    john dejarnette

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  1. I dont vary from book on shotshells because the pressure tolerances are very narrow. Changing components can have ddramatic effects. Some hulls have tapered walls and smaller volumes than similar looking hulls of the same gauge. Remington vs Federal are good examples. Other have paper base wads vs plastic 1 or 2 piece base wads. The list of variables goes on... I stick to published load data by hull type, wad type, and primer type. 209 primers vary quite a bit in brissiance, with expected varaince in pressures. Some 209 primers even have larger external diameters. So, i stick to published loads. I do substitute ClayBuster brand wads wherever possible, following Claybuster load data whe the powder manufacturer doesnt list data for claybuster wads. Wad substitution is fairly well documented I am much more willing to mix and match components with metallic rifle and pistol cartridges. Much more room for error than with shotgun shells.
  2. I have a mk2. It developed a feed problem during Bullseye season. BLUF: fouling buildup inside the chamber and on the magazines. Cleaned chamber with a .25 cal bore brush and ultrasonic cleaner cured it, but not until after I replaced magazines, changed ammo and cursed like a mad man for weeks. The MK 2 is a great pistol. When it decides not to run, it can be vexing.
  3. Reed Dont be put off by the early problems with 929. The same problems exist in any model. S&W will fix any manufacturer defects. They are very good about warranty work. Also dont overweight the Performance Center label. I have seen no quality differences between PC and regular production revolvers. It all all comes down to whether you want to shoot rimmed 38 ammo or rimless 9mm. Since you have said you will buy moon clips, there's no advantage either way on accessories. You will get action work done or do it yourself (it's not difficult) on either revolver. No advantage there. Handloading will enhance your reaults with either because you can develop a load to match your game and shooting style. Don't give factory ammo any weight in your comparison, except maybe component cost (about equal anyway). Make your choice and don't look back. Like I said earlier, I am heavily invested in 38 caliber revolvers. That said, I am actively looking for a 986, L-frame 7 shot 9mm revolver. Whike you are deciding, get a Lyman reloading handbook, and one from the bullet maker you like (Hornady, Sierra, Nosler, etc). Start studying on making your own ammo. Understand the process and how components affect results. It might help you decide on a revo. Ultimately, take comfort that you won't have any trouble selling either revo if you decide you don't like it.
  4. Reed you have the right idea with moon clips and such. Buy once, cry once. Starline brass is simply superb. It lasts forever and is pretty uniform. Get your handloading gear before you buy a revolver. It will pay for itself quickly given the current cost of revo ammo. Any fast pistol or shotgun powder, federal primers (or Winchester in a pinch), and a good cast bullet. I use Bullseye, Titegroup, clays, and red dot in 38 - depending on what's available. All work well. Quality bullets make the accuracy difference for me. I dont recommend the PC shop revolvers. My experience with them over the last 15 years has been uniformly disappointing. If you thought a 6" Ruger was unwieldy you might seriously consider the 4" revo. Please try to shoot the PC and Pro 627s a couple times before you plunk down your cash. Also watch for a used one on this forum. Don't get in a big rush. Why should you care? I have been shooting S&W revolvers since I bought my first police trade in about 35 years ago. I currently have two 627s and really like them. The 4" barrel is fine (my 625 and 629 are 5" guns). All that said, I am always on the lookout for a 5" barrel to put in one of my 627s just to try out. Also, don't overlook the 929 In 9mm. If you already shoot a botttome feeder, a 9mm revo might simplify things. If I weren't already an avid 38 shooter, I would buy the 929. Hope yhis helps. -John
  5. Thanks. My wife just reminded me that we also had an epic fault with Crucial brand RAM. Appreciate the help. I am NOT a computer guy by any stretch of imagination. I get by with following instructions and trying to duplicate the success of others. Come to think of it, that's how I approach shooting too
  6. What brand RAM are you using? my wife has a 2013 that has been nothing but trouble. Unusual since she has used MAC forever. We tried RAMJET memory and that made problems worse. She wants to update OS but is concerned it will cause problems again. Can't really accept problems as the Mac is her primary photo editor used in a side gig.
  7. This malaise will pass. Keep your gear for at least as long as you took off for recovery. Shoot fun matches. Most important, find a friend to shoot with. it will be more fun for you both and help keep you motivated. The joy will carry into your non-shooting endeavors too. Persevere. Gains come from disciplined effort over time. The joy is always in the little victories over adversity. Don't quit shooting just yet. just quit judging yourself so harshly.
  8. I will happily sign of for a kit from you!
  9. WSF HP38 Bullseye (when I can find it)
  10. Your machine sounds interesting. Sort of like an improved Camdex On board primer pocket swaging would be very useful for military calibers On board lighting Electric power automatic operation $1000 price point?
  11. Absolutely We need this product
  12. Hard to diagnose without looking at it. That said glock release the strike to fire when the connector pulls the trigger bar down sufficiently. Your problem sounds like tolerance stacking. The foot on the strike might be just a little longer on the 17 than the 34. Still within tolerance, but not quite right for the frame you are using. I would swap the strikers to see if that cures the problem. If it does, then you need to stone a bit off the offending striker foot. Blue sharpie or dykem would be useful to see where parts are rubbing. Hope this helps you in the quest for solutions
  13. For Target loads in 12 gauge: Red Dot, WSF, WST, Clays, E3, not necessarily in that order. Titewad is also great for light loads For field loads in 12 gauge I really like Longshot, despite it's very LOUD report. Longshot also makes a great high velocity trap load. For 20 gauge, Hodgdon International, Hodgdon Universal, and Alliant 20/28 (when you can find it). ETA: Titegroup, because I don't have any right now but it's a great powder for light 12 gauge loads, especially with the 3/4 ounce claybuster wad.
  14. I used a vise and hardwood blocks. Wrapped the barrel in paper with a little rosin to help it hold tight.
  15. At my last duty station I shot a lot of trap, skeet, and 5 stand. A lot, like 10K shells a year. I normally don't clean hulls, just load till they split. Muddy hulls WITHOUT PAPER BASE WADS get a rinse in soapy water and dry in front of a fan. Hull with paper base wads get loaded once and tossed in the trash I have tried tumbling in corn cob. It just isn't worth the effort.