Will2K

Thanks guys!

Cool thanks very much! I'll try something similar.

I'm hoping to lighten some springs on a stock shadow. Thinking about going with 15 or 13 lb main spring and same for the recoil spring. Do I also need a lighter firing pin spring or an extended firing pin or will the stock ones work? I just started reloading for 9mm as well and have 2000 federal blue box primers on hand. Would also still like to retain possibility to reliably shoot factory... what do do you all think?

I think filing sear would be easier and cheaper to replace if I screw it up? Any tips to performing either/both of these modifications? I also see the race hammer has a lot smaller hooks. I wonder if simply replacing the hammer would take care of it? Or can I file or sand the hammer hooks to look similar without destroying reliability?

Hello, Just starting to get into handguns and already found this forum helpful in working on a shadow I picked up! Looking forward to learning more from the guys who've been doing this for awhile. cheers, will

Hello, Just starting to get into handguns and already found this forum helpful in working on a shadow I picked up! Looking forward to learning more from the guys who've been doing this for awhile. cheers, will

Heh, I think you are probably right. I'm pretty new to handguns and playing around with the trigger and practicing by dry firing. I just noticed it felt really nice to have that solid stop and the sights seemed to move less on target... this is also my first shadow so I was wondering is this what to expect from a stock trigger, but I guess it is.

Or did I just make the trigger the way it was supposed to function in the first place? I.E., is it common for shadows to have overtravel unless sear or hammer is filed to clear?

Thanks for the reply! I also had a disconnect/timing issue where on single action the hammer would sometimes get hung up if the trigger was pulled slowly, so I ended up filing the corners of the disconnector and the issue went away. However, I'm afraid I may have taken too much off... can this have affect on the over travel?

Hi all! I have question about the over travel screw on a CZ shadow that someone might know the answer to... I came across info that the over travel screw needs to be far enough in so that the hammer completely clears the sear when the trigger is pulled and held all the way back. I did this and the result was quite a bit of over travel on the trigger. If I take away the over travel the trigger feels great, but when I hold the trigger back, and try and rock the hammer back and forth, the hammer gets hung up or scrapes the sear. I understand this can cause damage. Is it possible to set zero over travel and still have the hammer clear the sear? And how would I do this? Thanks in advance!