Garbo

Ordered mine half an hour ago..Can't wait

They're essentially super hard NATO primers. I've heard of people with stock guns having light strike issues with them (Cough M&P and FNS)

I see everyone talking about having to go to 14# hammer springs and above to set off primers, but mine sets off turkish Yavek(ZQI) 99.9% and anything blazer brass or above 100% with a 13#. Did i just get lucky or does the bolo somehow change how far the hammer goes back and cause light strikes more easily? PD 13# hammer spring PD firing pin and FP spring PD light sear spring PD light trigger spring Extreme one piece sear(No polish) Stock FPB (polished) and spring Stock plunger spring -1.5coils Stock hammer+Disconnector Disconnector, plunger and trigger bar polished (Not that much) 6.5lbs DA 2.75lbs SA Don't mean to highjack the thread, just curious.

Issue is now resolved, and as a bonus the reset is noticeably shorter now. Thanks for the help PD and Jim!

Thanks for the confirmation, thats what i thought but i wanted to be absolutely positive. (Using exclusively your springs btw )

On just the outside of the sear leg(the part facing down towards the trigger bar) or some on the inside angle where it contacts the sear cage as well? (I'm assuming just the outside but want to make sure before i go and mess with it anymore)

Correction, it isn't falling into half cock. It switches into a DA pull. As in it drops the hammer, but will only fall into half cock if i let the trigger out again, but if i continue to pull the trigger it will fire normally with a higher pull weight. The overtravel screw is also nowhere near the frame when this occurs, and i removed the screw and tested just to be sure and it still falls into DA.

Not many matches in my area. Idpa and steel challenge mostly (which I don't shoot) with the occasional super steel (pro am type steel shooting) that I will shoot when there is a match. (Also the only type of competition I have ever shot, hoping to attend my first uspsa match in March up in PA) and as an edit to my guns cost, that is including things like guide rod, grips, front sight etc. Its probably sub $150 in actual trigger improvement parts.

I'm having the same issue on my stock II since I installed the one piece extreme sear. It happens when the slide is on and off the gun, and only when the trigger is pulled VERY slowly. I have confirmed it is not due to the half cock notch on the hammer catching and my sear cage has very little movement in it. What angle to you file down on the sear leg to fix this exactly? The inside or outside?(hope that description makes sense)

In my opinion the finish on the standard Stock II is better (Hard chromed) and you can definitely make the trigger as good as the extreme for less (Actually better) I have a total of less than $1200 in my stock II and i have a 6.5lbs DA/2.75 SA trigger that is incredibly smooth. BUT if you have literally no mechanical capabilities and a ton of money, i guess the extreme would be worth a look.