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About zeroryde

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    Looks for Range

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  • Real Name
    Ryan Chan
  1. Yup. Happened to me too. ROs don't usually see too many HKs so they're quick to call it like a bad ump. I've had a HK45 for a long time so I'm used to sweeping it and getting it out of the way quick. I shoot my G34 now in USPSA and it's much slower for mag reloads than the vp9 I use for idpa
  2. I had to fit my T1 disco as well. I had a separate thread of the same issues you had. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  3. Your stock sear might have to be shaved down on the left side where it meets the safety to allow it to rotate up. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  4. You might have to fit the T1 disco like I had to. I filed very little and my SA reset. Also sounds like you might have to adjust your sear as well. When I ordered the race hammer I opted for the more expensive kit and not the hammer alone. I had to take out the old sear from the sear cage and replace it with the adjustable one with the set screw. That adjustable sear allows you to manipulate the safety up while hammer is cocked. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  5. What did you order or put in your gun. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  6. It helped remove the pretravel in SA. It was a significant difference.. probably by 1.5-2 mm Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
  7. So far, I basically ordered everything from CGW and this is what I installed so far. 11lb recoil, 11.5 lb hammer, RP firing pin spring and extended firing pin, RP trigger return spring, t1 disco and CGW race hammer with adj sear. I got average of 6.75-7 DA pulls with crisp 2.75 avg SA pulls. I was using Freedom Munitions American Steel and got 2-3 "light" strikes out of 200 rounds tested yesterday. I believe they're just hard primers because they don't really look like light hits.
  8. Awesome, thanks, I'll probably go about this really carefully now. I heard of people using markers etc. Not sure if I should pick up a diamond file or dremel attachment and be really careful.
  9. Here's a little video I just took. First two pulls are what I described as catching... if I did it slow and deliberately half way. The rest are normal straight back pulls. Sounds like I might have to do the same. Did he tell you where to remove on the disco. I'm going to send him this video too. Thanks for all the advice everyone.
  10. I backed it out completely, I think I know what's happening now... if I don't pull back completely and stall mid-way the pull, I think the sear resets and catches the hammer hook. If I pull straight back without hesitation it drops normally. Mind you the screw is out to where it is sticking out of the front of the trigger now and there is a "void" now where the screw is on the backside of the trigger. I apologize for this back and forth. I might have to post another video or contact David, or it's just maybe me in how I pull the trigger weird. I'm not sure what else to adjust.
  11. Ok thanks, I did that and it works, but for some reason it still catches if were to not fully depress the trigger. like if I were slowly pulling and creeping it with a lot of trigger finger... it had a tendency to catch and act like i was trying to decock it. But if I deliberately pull the trigger in one motion it seems fine. Not sure how else to explain it or what else it would it would be to cause this. I did pay attention to the sear and the hammer hooks like you said. Seems that I have to make sure I pull the trigger in one motion to ensure I don't have premature wear. This only happens in SA too. DA is fine.
  12. By George... just got home from work and tried backing out the overtravel screw, David and you were right... it worked. The hammer drops now with the pull although when in SA I noticed that if you pull the trigger really slow and stop have way there is a chance to catch the half cock sear. It is not an issue when I just pull straight through. Thanks for reaffirming what David suggested.
  13. Thanks I will definitely try that out and report back. I just didn't think of that since I never adjusted it out of the box.
  14. I found it's actually this part
  15. Hey guys, so I got my order in yesterday for the CGW race hammer with adjustable sear, T1 disco, and a bunch of other things such as the bushing and new hammer strut. I assembled the hammer and the T1 disco on a separate hammer strut so I can have two separate assemblies so I can go back if I needed to. When I installed everything in as instructed, the hammer will not release or go down in double action or single action. It releases only when I push on the trigger bar or snap the trigger really fast. I contacted David at CGW and he asked me of I backed the overtravel screw out of the trigger in SA yet. Which I haven't touched since I got the gun. I'm at work now so I can't try it to report back to David. But I'm wondering if any of you had to remove material from the T1 disco if that is my problem. Here are two videos of the two hammers, one stock, one with CGW and T1. Both with the adjustable sear in place. Race hammer and t1 Stock hammer and disco Any suggestions?