chestypuller

Going to need to remove the rear sight. Then get a hole tapped into the frame for the third screw. Two screws will hold the dovetail in the slot but will come loose so the third one needs put in as an anchor.

When just running the practical I use a 3.5 but on the movers a 6.

Does anyone using the Burris FF and Docters just use the dovetail to mount them or have you added the third hole and tapped the slide for a more secure mount?

What all do they do exactly in the bulletproofing? I have a Docter 2 Plus on a Beretta and just got it back from Germany after it failed internally. So far so good. Does anyone have pics of the underside of a bulletproofed sight? Curious if there is anything visible.

We make our own using cardboard I get at work and a lexan template I made around 30 years ago. It has slot cut in it in place of the perfs and I use a fine pen to make lines.

Okay, realizing this is a few years old, I have been using the same setup for 30 years. We shoot Bianchi Cup style at 10, 15, 25 and 50 yards. I made a lexan template tombstone shaped and cut the rings out using a jig saw leaving one inch webs in the lines. I use Pilot brand V5 pens with the needle like tips to make the lines. Cardboard is cut out tombstone shaped 18x30 inches. Two 1/2"x5' rebar are used with spring clamps four on each target. I carry a machinsts hammer in my range accessory bag to pound the rebar in and keep the clips in there with other odds and ends. Using this setup, we can move our targets to any distance and we don't make toothpicks out of the range backstops, which are usually plywood around here. If you need a bigger target you just move one rod out and pound it in. I've used 4'x8' sheets of cardboard for long range rifle backstops and taped my targets to them. It helps if you grind points on one end of the rods. Semper Fi

Long time shooter of all things that go bang, big and small. Fan of Bianchi Cup series and long range rifle comps. Semper Fi