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About Hammer002

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  1. Well, I knew everything up to the last paragraph and holy crap that's the solution exactly. So simple. Thanks a ton. I would add something to your indexing discussion. When I was first taught the things you described I was also taught to angle my feet out each way you are going to swing. Amazingly enough, if done correctly, this can give a natural body stop at each end. Smoke and hope being a good example where pointing each set of toes toward the outer targets gives you a natural place your body wants to stop. What I found is this means you don't have to slow coming into the target. When set right, you just stop where you pointed. Can almost shoot it without looking. Awesome piece of advice on the cheek weld....off to the basement to practice it.
  2. First, thank you for the response. Its always nice to interact with the upper level shooters. Interesting you mention Mitsuoka because his videos can be attributed to some of my best improvements. Would be amazing to shoot on that caliber of squad. The more I have learned about USPSA and Steel Challenge, the less my defense world training is a part. Though the 15-22 was originally meant to be a training platform, after the first steel challenge I went to and saw guys shooting them, it became something else. The bushnell has worked well for me I think because I go against the speed set up grain and keep it at the far end of the receiver. This minimizes how much of the outer frame my eye sees, so I think that's why I have been successful to the extent I have so far, but I do feel a plateau. When I moved it closer, or attempted the vortex up close like in the video I mentioned, my eye picked up way too much of the frame. I have been told the further out the dot is mounted the more accurate and more the frame disappears, however its a slower pick up and slower to transition. So, I am all in on the full competitive end. The 15-22 is now a dedicated steel gun. So the C More is likely a route I want to pursue, and whichever one is the best at doing its job will be the preferred way to go. This leaves me questions to those of more experience: Where to mount it? Closer to the eye, or further away. Mitsuoka videos looks like he is in the middle, but that's a way different gun. And with mounting, maintain AR type height? And secondly, again, what is the preference for when to choke up on the fore end and when to stretch out? I have fought to find a single location and its pretty much centered and I use a c clamp grip (thumb wrapped over top) with a magpul angled foregrip. I think I like that it makes it easy to put pressure into my shoulder with the support hand. Lastly, the skill I have struggled the most with - the first target pick up when it is forced to be to the right, meaning across the bottom of the chin to get a cheek weld if looking at the target waiting for the dot such as on speed option. No matter how I practice this, it still kicks my butt trying to get there with any form of speed. Thanks for any input.
  3. What is the suggested dot and MOA? I just threw what I had on what began as my daughters gun to learn the ar platform and now I am hooked on steel. I think I read here large MOA, like 8+. I have learned a lot on this forum, but sometimes it's just bits of conversation I catch. Like the reference of either stretching out or choking up. Have fought to find one spot. Lots to learn.
  4. Very nice pics, 1911luvr. Locally, the highly modified 10/22s here remind me of Open pistol and PCC in USPSA with guys constantly fighting them to run. Some are amazing shooters and would probably win more if their guns were more reliable. I'm still learning more and more, but I think the 15/22 is still appropriate for my shooting, but the well done 10/22s are excellent rifles when they run well and may be in my future at some point as Steel matches are really my favor right now.
  5. Cool. Was wondering. Know someone who went up after that match. Heard it was a good o e.
  6. If you were referencing my post about BITB, I think it was just production.
  7. NP. installing the new one is cake. Most come with a new crush washer. As I said, be very attentive not to let the barrel turn in the plastic receiver. An aluminum barrel clamp or block of wood with a hole drilled and then split to use as a clamp are the two best options for the 15-22. There are numerous videos. The stock one is really REALLY on there. I have heard the same from every single person I know who has changed it and there are endless stories on the internet about it. If you know what you are doing (I did and still became uncomfortable enough to have someone more qualified do it) have at it, just make sure you have a good hold on it and be ready to exert some serious muscle. hope it works for you.
  8. If I am not mistaken, Battle in the Bluegrass 2017 became a classifier under the above mentioned rule.
  9. I usually just hang out and read and learn, but I can give some input here. Master class RFRO with a 15/22 for about a year now. A few things I have found with the 15/22: First, and in my looking back, most important, is a compensator. This has NOTHING to do with any effect on the bullet, its trajectory, or recoil, (not one of these will be affected at all with a comp on a .22) but everything to do with the timer picking up all of your shots every time. It simply makes it louder, nothing else. I got the Allchin specifically made for the 15-22 and never had an issue with a dropped score again. Others are designed to do different things and not sure how effective they would be, but the Allchin was an immediate improvement and by far the best modification I have made to the gun. Heads up though, the factory flash suppressor is on there very very tight and the barrel is only mounted into plastic. Have someone with the right tools remove it, this is not something to take lightly as you can easily spin the barrel in the plastic and completely ruin the gun beyond repair. Second, just pick an optic. For the 15/22, stay with the ones made for AR height for proper cheek weld. Personally, I have tried a few options and have stayed with a Bushnell TRS-25 micro mounted all the way forward on the receiver. This is what works for me. I tried setting it up exactly as Jerry Miculek in one of his instructional videos with a Vortex Strikefire mounted to the rear of the receiver and it just wasn't for me, but saw the benefit of the larger field of vision with the larger tube. I did notice the Vortex's brightest setting was just short of the Bushnell on a sunny day. Either of these low budget optics are perfect with no need to spend more. Just find what works for you. Best advice I got for steel challenge sight in, is one inch high at 25 yards and always shoot for the center of the plate. Ok, so I put the Geiselle SD-3G trigger in mine this year. I made Master last year with a bone stock trigger, no polishing, never even had it apart. After hearing so much about aftermarket triggers I guess I had to follow suit. I noticed absolutely no difference in shooting performance, although it feels amazing. The stock trigger will do absolutely fine. Steel Challenge is more about not missing fast than anything else, and the stock trigger will more than do the job. Three of my fastest times, less than a second over Peak Time for the course were set with the stock trigger. 11.07 vs 11.00 Peak Time on 5 to Go. The point is, the aftermarket triggers are nice, but absolutely not necessary. A strong word of caution - I researched the aftermarket triggers extensively and found nearly any drop in trigger for an AR platform will install, but many cause light primer strikes. It takes considerably less force to activate a 5.56 or .223 primer than a rimfire round and many get their light trigger pull at the sacrifice of power to the primer. Geisselle seemed to be what people had the most success with and I would say the same for me. I cannot image the frustration of spending that kind of cash to find you now have a constant light primer strike issue. One other thing, the 15/22 receiver is slightly wider than a mil spec AR. This means the pins for most trigger groups are too short. Some are reported to work just fine like that. Others complained of pin walk. There is a company that makes an anti walk pin set that I almost went with, but they are ugly with an external connector. I ran across a random forum post where a guy said its a little known secret the Colt 901 pins are a perfect fit. I ordered these with my trigger from Geiselle, and he was exactly right. Perfect, flush fit. Magazines - I use the Smith and Wesson 25 round mags and have 10 right now. I shoot four strings of five with one mag and the last string with a mag I keep in a kydex mag pouch on my belt in the event of a malfunction requiring a quick reload. This keeps me from having to reload a magazine all day for a normal match of 6 stages. If you miss a little more, possibly reload after three strings, but the five you have should be plenty for sure. Last, as far as reliability, find ammo it likes and keep it clean. The 15/22 is by far the most reliable rimfire rifle I have seen at my local competitions as well as what I have read about and why so many shoot it. I see the high end Rugers have jam after jam and stifle very good shooters - good gun, but the available mags aren't quite as reliable as the 15/22. The 15/22 just runs and runs. I have only found one type of ammo it didn't like, some Federal brown tipped hollowpoint. Otherwise, my go to is actually Remington Golden Bullet or the Troy Landry Edition 36 grain CCI MiniMags. I have never had a failure with either. The second is a bit cleaner. I have experimented with low velocity versus high and definitely prefer the high. The shot is more crisp and most importantly louder for the timer. Sorry for the long post, but my 15/22 in Steel Challenge is by far the most fun I have shooting anything with a trigger and I would be happy to help someone else enjoy it the same. Good luck.
  10. 4.1.3 No-shoots must be clearly marked or be of a single color different from scoring targets. Metal no-shoots in the general size and shape of authorized paper targets may be used. Metal no-shoots do not have a non-scoring border. No-shoots may not have holes cut in them and be used as penalty targets that must be shot through to hit a scoring target; see 9.1.5. got it.
  11. I've been known to cut squares or rectangles in the middle of no shoots to surround ports. We have walls made of the orange construction mesh and it keeps us honest when shooting through ports, especially at distance. I am familiar with the cited rule above, but always took it to mean the outer edge, but sounds like it would appear to be the center square as well. Next time....
  12. Ok, so I am usually here to soak up knowledge and not post, but I actually have an answer to this one. The type of training you are talking about is universal for new shooters and the tactical community. The elbows locked and rotated in, shoulders up out of their sockets, death grip on gun approach is the best way to teach a new shooter how to immediately see results. Therefore, it has widely been trademarked into the "tactical" world of training and then law enforcement. (Ask me how I know). That approach is the best way to teach someone new to shooting and expect them to have half a chance at success if the need to shoot ever arises and they haven't practiced since the last class or qual. The tactical community has really taken it and ran and make lots of money teaching someone who has never touched a firearm or has little to no real experience with one a simple way of doing it that immediately after shows results. When I ventured into the competitive world I immediately realized those techniques were near useless. The rigid, tight technique works well for standing erect in one place shooting one nonmoving target. The competitive world demands FAR more movement and range of motion. Not to mention practice. What I find most common in good shooter's advice is finding what is right for YOU and PRACTICE. There are many greatly successful people who do things against the grain so to speak, but its because they practice it that way every day. Enos actually goes into this to great extent in his book, and I have always taken his approach - I want to build a foundation for what works for me based on what my body does well naturally. Then practice it enough to depend on it. In short, I think the original question really can be broken down into self defense/tactical posture vs competition. They are two completely separate worlds with little that blends well at high levels of either.
  13. Kimber rubber grips Dawson ICE magwell Dawson extended magazine release Green front sight EGW tungsten guide rod Tripp/Kimber 10 round magazines for L10 / 3 gun Tripp 8 round magazines w/Dawson (no gap) base pads 41.9 oz for USPSA SS Gun has been near flawless. Kimber 10 rnd mags like to cause malfunction when loaded at slide lock. Waiting for McCormick RPM 10 rnd availability.