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About BC27

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Carson City Nevada
  • Real Name
    David Jun

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  1. In my experience as an RO and a competitor, I can't remember seeing a hit that did not have a "grease ring" unless it was a shoot though. This is for all kinds of bullets (jacketed, plated and coated). They should call it a "fouling ring" because it not typically "grease" in the literal sense.
  2. The "grease ring" is the blackish ring the bullet will leave around the hole of the first thing it hits. It's just carbon and bullet coating residue on the bullet and from the barrel. I shoot Polymer coated Blue Bullets so my "grease rings" are blackish blue. As mentioned above, if you have a "shoot though" from a plastic barrel, wood, or another paper target, the "ring' will be much lighter to non existent and is in fact a good indication of a "shoot though".
  3. IMO, getting firearm owners/enthusiasts to shoot USPSA, 3Gun or any other form of organized shooting competition will never generate a lot of interest. It's the same reason most of us do not take our cars to the race track, let alone actually compete in races with our cars or bikes. I'm sure most of us love our cars too. I used to be heavily involved in track days and amateur racing both cars and motorcycles but the reality is, most sports car and motorcycle enthusiasts aren't interested in actually racing their cars or bikes for various reasons (Cost, intimidation, dedicating the time, maybe all of the above, etc...) Most of my friends with sport bikes have zero interest in going to the track because of those reasons even though they're very good riders and tear it up in the canyons. Most would rather just go for a spirited ride with their buddies. I think most gun owners would rather just plink with their friends for the same reasons.
  4. My understanding is that if stored properly (cool, dark, dry place), they will last longer than you.
  5. The AR15 version will do the same but I just used a paper clip to press the detent. Works great so I leave the detent in.
  6. Maybe the OAL of your ammo? The throat of you barrel might have eroded a bit and might need a longer OAL?
  7. I like ArmPro (by Missing Link). They're SPF 50 rated: http://www.missinglnk.com/default.asp?page=xstore&zcid=19968
  8. You might be looking at the wrong model. All the dealers pretty much have the 1-8 with the BRT-I reticle marked at $2,419. The 4A-IF reticle is $2,609 but I don't think that would be a good choice for 3 Gun.
  9. I'm kinda waiting the the 1-8 BRT-I to come out and they seem to be about $2,419. The 1-6 seem to be $200 less new. How much are you asking for yours?
  10. Where can you get the 1-6 that low?
  11. +1 on the anchors. These are perfect: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5WVCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. Not an expert on the VP9 by any stretch but IMO, it is not one of the H&K's that I would consider over sprung. In fact, I think it's a bit on the under sprung side. When the striker is cocked on the VP9, you can see how light the spring already is as you can momentarily move the slide out of battery just by flicking it back and forward quickly with your wrist. Also, when an actual round is chambered and you perform a press check, the slide barely goes back into battery and sometimes needs a nudge. I shoot soft loads in my VP9 all the time and have never had any issues with malfunctions.
  13. Just curious, why do you want a lighter recoil spring?
  14. Sure, but it's nothing special. Everyone has their own method but pertaining to the barrel but this is what I do for when it's really dirty. I start by rolling up a piece of a paper towel and sticking it though the baffles of the muzzle brake (this is to catch and absorb the solvent). With the muzzle brake pointing down and the camber up, I spray a generous amount of Hoppe's #9 down the camber, though the barrel (I use a little spay bottle). Enough that it extra pours out the barrel and is caught by the paper towel. I'll lay it down and just let it soak for 15 minutes while I clean the BCG. After about 15min I'll run a patch to clear out the loose particles, then run a bronze bore brush though a couple times to break up the carbon and copper. This is followed by another patch to clear the loose stuff and then the bronze brush again. Basically, I scrub, then wipe with a patch so that I'm not just scrubbing the particles around. I like to flush them out and scrub and repeat as needed. You'll be able to see the patches coming out with less and less crap until you're satisfied. When I think it's clean, I run a patch with a thin layer of oil and I'm done. That's basically how I do it and I'm sure there are plenty of people that will say it's wrong but it works for me.
  15. Yes, yes you did.